• • THE . . 

ADIRONDACKS 

ILLUSTRATED. 



• CONTAINING • • • 

DESCRIPTION OF NOTABLE FEATURES OF THE REGION ; FORESTRY AND Vt 

FORESTS, THEIR CONDITION AND NEEDS ; HINTS CONCERNING FISH AND 

FISHING ; SUPPLIES AND GENERAL OUTFIT FOR CAMP AND TRAIL ; 

COST AND MANNER OF REACHING THE VARIOUS RESORTS ) 

HOTELS, WITH CAPACITY, PRICE OF BOARD, ETC. ; TABLES 

OF ELEVATION AND DISTANCES; MAPS, ETC., ETC. 

^ . . . BY - . . 



/R<t 



TODDARD, 



AUTHOR OF 



"TICONDEROGA," "LAKE GEORGE and LAKE CHAMPLAIN.' 



TWENTY-FOURTH EDITION, 

• • • 1894. • • • 



GLENS "ALLS, N. Y. 
PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR 

Copyright, 1893, by S. R. Stoddard. 



GREETING: 

I made my first trip to tlie heart of tlie Adirondack 
Wilderness in 1873, covering in a series of loops its 
more noted sections and routes. The following year 
the experience and matter gathered in the round 
were given in narrative form, and on this narrative 
thread has been annually strung the changes of suc- 
ceeding years. 

Changes ? Wild grass grows on the old routes and 
the unknown places of then are now centers of a sum- 
mer population greater than the total of all Adiron- 
dack visitors of twenty years ago. 

So the old Narrative is dropped and the space 
given to that which will be of more value to the 
tourist generally, and all condensed into a more con- 
venient form. The ' ' New Adirondacks " is the result. 
How do 5^ou like it ?. 

Railroads encircle the Adirondacks like the iron 
frame of a landing net. From the encircling lines 
others penetrate the interior, crossing each other and 
branching in turn to reach important points, or lose 
themselves among the mountains or in the watery 
highways that are woven in a net-work all over the 
lake region of the west. Let us consider the Wilder- 
ness as the face of a great clock, with Mount Marcy 
the pivot on which the mighty hands are turning'. 
The more important Gateways are numbered to rep- 



VI 



GREETING. 



resent the hours, according to position* ; thus Platts- 
burgh fairly represents I o'clock. Port Kent II, West- 
port III, while the others follow in order as the hands 

go the familiar 
way around the 
dial. The sever- 
al routes from 
important 
points to Gate- 
ways will be 
found on pages 
236-7-8. The 
route to interior 
points is follow- 
ed separately 
from each Gate- 
way in the fol- 
lowing pages, 
for Avhich see 
index . The 
map on page 4 will give a clear idea of the location 
of the principal resorts. 

Hotels are referred to in special index (page x). 
For rates of board and particulars not found in the 
body of the book, see Appendix — indexed on page 
241. For mountains and table of elevations, see page 
xii. Lakes and ponds, altitude, page xi. Sug- 
gestions concerning camp and outfit will be found in 
Chapter II. For fishing and fishing outfit see Chap- 
ter XII. For particular points consult the i?idex. 




GREETING. 



Vl^ 



The question of the hour in Adirondack matters is 
the preservation of the forests ; of great value as a 
whole — of vital importance as regards the tributaries 
of the Hudson River. The gradual annual shrinkage 

in the water 
supply of this 
river, with its 
sudden floods 
and as sudden 
dryi n g - u p of 
tribut ar y 
streams, are 
warnings that 
should not be 
ignored. Royal 
of birth though 
it be ; famed 
the world over 
and beautiful 
beyond c o m - 
pare, it is less 

[Light portion shows Hudson River drainage.] Vriown in it 

birthplace than is almost any other section of the 
wilderness. The forest covering of this entire region 
is threatened with destruction. It should be under 
control of the State. A law should be enacted pro- 
hibitmg the cutting of evergreen trees on all Adi- 
rondack lands lying i,8oo feet above tide, except 
with the approval of competent authority under the 
government. 

Gletts Falls, Ju7ie, i8gj. 




INDEX. 



GENTERAL. 



Adirondacks ^^^^ 

In General ^ 

Advice ^° 

Area 3 

Expenses ° 

HOW REACHED FROM 

Binghamton 237 

Boston 238 

Montreal 238 

New York 236 

Niagara Falls 238 

Thousand Islands 238 

"Washington 237 

White Mountains 238 

Adirondack League Club. 215 

Mountain Reserve 153 

Paj-]j 221 

Post-Office'...*.".'. ^67 

Ruined Village i75 

Sanitarium 72 

Advertisements, Index.240-241 

Appendix 239 

Arnold, Benedict 51 

Au Sable Chasm 41 

Au Sable River 133 

Au Sable Valley 132 

Bartlett Carry 83 

Battle of PlattsDurg.i 56 

Beaver Lake Counciy 217 

Bisby Club 217 

Bloomingdale 69 

Bog River Falls 95 

Brown, John 119 

Brown's, John, Grave 121 

Brown Tract 212 

Buntline, Ned 193 

Burlington 39 

Buttermilk. Fall:i 205 

Catholic Summer Scnool.. 58 

Cedar River 185 

Chateaugay Chasm 66 

Chestertown 163 

Child wold 103 

Child wold (Stationj 99 

Clothing •• 6 

Cold River qi 

Crab Island 56 



PAGE 

Crown Point Ruins 29 

Cumberland Head 58 

Drowned Lands, The 93 

Dunning, Alvah 197 

Elizabethtown 135 

Essex 37 

Euba Dam 140 

Fishing 228 

Bait Fishing ... 232 

Buoy Fishing . 233 

Flies 230 

Lake Trout 232 

Tackle 231 

Trolling 232 

Fish, where found 234 

Forests, and Forestry . . 222 

Commission 220 

Destruction 225 

Natural Reservoirs 223 

Fort Frederick 31 

Fort Montgomery 59 

Fort Ticonderoga 26 

Gateways. 

1 Plattsburgh 60 

2 Port Kent 131 

3 Westport 135 

4 Port Henry 159 

5 Crown Point 159 

6 Ticonderoga 159 

7 Saratoga 161 

8 Fonda 184 

9 Herkimer 211 

10 Lowville 217 

1 1 Carthage 218 

12 DeKalb Junction 219 

13 Potsdam 103 

14 Moira g& 

15 Malone 7° 

16 Chateaugay 66 

Game Laws 235 

General Divisions 3 

Guides 9 

Herkimer 211 

Hotels, Special Index., x 

Hunting 6 



INDK._ 



Indian Carry 9^ 

Indian Pass 178 

Indian River 183 

Insect preparations 21 

Jay (Lower) ^32 

Jay (Upper) ^32 

Keene Valley ^40 

Guides ^57 

Outfit, Camp 18 

Ladies' 16 

Mens' , 13 

Lakes, Special Index... xi 

Leavitt Stage Line 164 

Long Lake Village 209 

Luzerne i6r 

Lyon Mountain 62 

Malone • 70 

Maps. 

Adirondack Park 2 

Adirondack Wilderness. 

Au Sable Chasm ^6 

Blue Mountain Lake ig6 

Champlain, Lake 24 

Chateaugay, Lake 62 

Cumberland Bay 57 

Elizabethtown 134 

Forked Lake ig6 

Gateways 211 

Keene Valley 134 

Placid, Lake 107 

Raquette Lake 196 

Saranac Lake (Lower.. . . g^ 
Saranac Lake (Upper). . . 83 

Tupper Lake ^4 

Marcy, Mt 130 

Marion River 194 

Medicine Chest 21 

Mountains, index xii 

Ne-ha-sa-ne Park 219 

Newcomb 181 

North Creek 174 

North Elba 106 

Old Forge — 212 

Old Mountain Phelps ^42 

Peasleville. — 133 

Phantom Falls 205 

Plattsburgh = 57 



PAGE 

Ponds, Special index.... xi 

Port Douglas 40 

Port Henry 31 

Port Kent... 40 

Potsdam 102 

Pottersville 164 

Railroads. 

Ad'k & St. Lawrence 211 

Au Sable Valley 132 

Carthage and Ad'k 218 

Central Vt 237 

Chateaugav 60 

N. Y. C. & H. R 272 

Delaware & Hudson 54 

K., Au S. C. & L. C 40 

Northern Ad'k 98 

Saranac & Lake Placid. . 105 

Raquette Falls 91 

Raquette Lake 195 

Camps 202 

Raquette River 90 

Riverside 163 

Roaring Brook Falls 152 

Rock Dunder 38 

Rogers' Station 132 

Rouse's Point 59 

Sageville 184 

Salmon River Valley 133 

Saranac Lake ( village) 72 

Schroon Lake (village) ... 169 

Split Rock Falls 140 

Split Rock 36 

Sporting Outfit 22 

Stony Creek 90 

Sumner Park 204 

Sweeney Carry 92 

Tahawas 174 

Ticonderoga, Fort 27 

Tupper Lake (village) g- 

Valcour Island "55 

Vergennes 37 

Westport 33- 135 

Whitehall 25 

Willsborough Point 37 

Wilmington Notch 133 

Wakelv Dam 185 

Woodhull Tract 213 



125 

174 
144 



174 

l22 

79 

198 

71 

132 

65 

40 

75 

35 

187 



28 



Adirondack Lodge 

Adirondack (North Creek) 

Adirondack (KeeneValley) 

Algonquin 

American House 

Ames' Mountain View 

Ampersand 

Antlers 

Ayers' Hotel 

Baldwin Cottage 

Banner House 

Bay View House 

Berkeley House. 

Blinn House 

Blue Mount n Lake House. 

Blue M't'n H. (Merwin's).. 

Brightside-on-Raquette.. . 

Burleigh House 

Cascade Lake House \g 

Castle Rustico ^ 

Champlain, Hotel 

Chester House - 

Child wold Park House. 

Coppins House 

Cranberry Lake House 

Del Monte 

Edge wood Inn 

Estes House. 

Flume Cottage 1^ 

Forest House ^ 

Forge House U-rA'- ^28 

Fort Ticonderoga Hotel.. g 

Fouquet House 

Fourth Lake House 2^^ 

Fenton House 2^^ 

Grand View House i^g 

Grove House 2^^ 

Grove Point House i 

Hemlocks 

Hiawatha ^ 

Indian Point House .\ 

In£erlaken(ChateaugayLl °4 

Interlaken (Essex Co.) 1^^ 

Ladd's :r^:' ' L 

Lake House, Crown Pt. . . . ^9 
Lake House, Schroon L.... 1/2 

Lake House, Long L 2^9 

Lake Placid House 112 

Lake View House 41 



INDEX. 

HOTELS. 

Iceland House ^7* 

Linwood Cottage 73 

Loon Lake House 0° 

Mansion House..... ^39 

Maple Grove Mt. House.. i4« 

Maplewood Inn ^39 

Meacham Lake House 71 

Merrill House 65 

Miller's Saranac Lake H. . 77 

Mirror Lake Hotel io7 

Moose River House........ 212 

M't'n Vie >v H., Essex Co.. 69 
Mt View H., Franklin Co. 70 

North River Hotel 182 

Ondawa ^73 

Paul Smith's ^9 

Pond View House loi 

Pottersville Hotel 104 

Prospect House 19° 

Rainbow Inn 67 



53 
163 
J 00 

i32 

2^9 

77 

74 

i44 

i47 

33 



i97 
90 



Ralph's -.■.. 62 

Raquette Falls Hotel 91 

Ray Brook House 105 

Redside Camp 94 

Richards House 34 

Riverside Inn 73 

Root's Holel 173 

Ruisseaumont 112 

Rustic Lodge 89 

Sagamore 207 

Saranac Club House 82 

Saranac Inn 84 

Saranac Lake House 77 

St. Hubert's Cottage 148 

St. Hubert's Inn 149 

Stevens House 113 

Tahawus House i45 

Taylor House 107 

Tromblee's 92. 

Tupper Lake House 95 

Under-Cliff • "5 

Watch Rock Hotel 165 

Wawbeek Inn 88 

Wayside Inn 162 

Westport Inn •• 33 

White Face Inn nz 

Willey House 140 

Windsor, The i37 

Witherill House 58 



INDEX. 



XI 




LAKES AND PONDS. 



ELEV. PAGE 

Ampersand Pond 2,078 77 

Augur Lake 

Au Sable Lake (L'w'r) 1,959 
Au Sable Lake (Up'r) 1,993 

Avalanche Lake 2,856 

Beaver Lake ii435 

Blue Mountain Lake.. 1,800 

Bonaparte 

Bog Lake 1,755 

Boreas Pond 2,046 

Calamity Pond 2,712 

Canada Lakes (West) 2,348 

Cascade Lakes 2,038 

Catlin Lake ..1,583 

Cedar Lakes 2,529 

Chain Lakes (Seven).. 

Champlain 99 

Chapel Pond 1,551 

Chateaugay Lake (L'r) 
Chateaugay Lake (U'r) 

Chazy Lake 1,500 

Clear Lake 2,159 

Colden, Lake 

Cranberry Lake I1540 

Crooked L. (H'k'r Co)2,o22 

Eagle Lake 1,800 

Elk Lake (Mud Pond). 1,981 

Forked Lake i)753 

Forked Lake (Little).. 

Francis Lake i?457 

Fulton Chain-First L. 1,684 
Fulton C'n-Eighth L. 1,803 

George 343 

Giant's Washbowl 2,233 

Harkness, Lake 

Henderson, Lake 1,874 j^g 



132 
155 
157 
127 
218 
187 
218 

97 
139 
176 
184 
123 



183 

23 

152 

65 

62 

61 

125 

127 

219 

IQ2 

174 
204 
205 
218 
213 
213 
159 



ELEV. PAGE 
183 
71 
103 



Indian Lake 1,705 

1 ngraham Pond 

Jordan Lake 

Lewey Lake 1,738 

Jjila, Lake , 1,725 

Long Lake 1,614 

Loon Lake (Fr'lin Co.) 

Luzerne Lake 

Massawepie Lake 

Meacham Lake 

Mirror Lake t,856 

Moose Lake (Little). ..1,787 

Moose Lake (Big) 

Mud Lake 1,745 

Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake 1,704 

Paradox Lake 



217 

206 
66 

1(2 
99 
71 

106 

185 
216 

95 
217 
173B 



Piseco Lake 185 

Placid, Lake 1,863 106 

Pleasant, Lake 1,706 185 

Preston Ponds 2,206 178 

Ragged Lake 70 

Rainbow Lake 67 

Raquette Lake ii774 195 

Raquette Pond g-j 

St. Regis Lake 1,623 70 

Sanf ord, Lake 1,800 175 

Saranac Lake (Low'r)i,53g 81 
Saranac Lake (Mid'le)i,542 
Saranac Lake (Upper)i,577 

Schroon Lake 830 

Stony Creek Ponds. ..1,642 

Tear of the Clouds 4,321 

Thirteenth Lake 1,953 

Tupper Lake (Big) 1,554 

Tupper Lake (Little).. 1,728 
Utowana Lake. . , 



82 
83 

165 
90 

129 

183 
93 
95 

194 



Xll 



INDEX 



MOUNTAINS. 
(Table of Elevatdons.) 



JRANK- NAME. ELEV. 

Ampersand. . . .31432 
Bartlett 3>7i5 

5 Basin 41Q05 

Black.. 2,661 

Blue Mountain. 3,824 
Catamount Mt.. 3, 128 
Cobble Hill.... 1,936 

11 Colden 4,753 

20 CoU'in 4)142 

Crane's 3,289 

4 Dix 4)9i6 

17 Giant 4,530 

12 Gothic 4,744 

6 Gray Peak 4,902 

3 Haystack 4,918 

10 Little Hayst'ck 4,766 
Hopkin's Peak. 3,136 

Hurricane 3,763 

Indian Face .... 2,536 
Mount Jo ,. 



PAGE ] 

77 

156 

*i56 
139 
190 

139 
126 

155 

144 
152 

^56 

156 



139 

I.S5 
126 



RANK. NAME. ELEV. 

19 Lyon Mount'n...3,8og 
Macomb 4,371 

1 Marcy(Tahawus)5,344 

2 Mclntire 5,201 

Nipple Top 4,684 

Noon-Mark. ...3,548 

North River 3,758 

Owl's Head 2,825 

Redfield 4,688 

Resagonia 

Saddle 4,536 

St. Regis ._ 2,888 

Santanoni 4,644 

Seward 4,384 

Skylight 4,889 

Snowy 3,903 

Split Rock 

Tahawus 

Wallface 3,893 

Whiteface 4>87i 



14 



61 
129 
126 

144 
141 

206 



T54 

136 

70 

206 
158 
144 
36 
129 
179 
118 




THE ADIRONDACKS 



CHAPTER I. 
In General. 

ON wings of thought swifter than the lightning's 
flash we sweep away across the drowsy earth, 
past smoke-polluted cities, sun-scorched meadows, 
burning plain and highways with their flaunting skirts 
of sand, nor rest until the fragrant odor of wild 
flowers and the dewy breath of forest trees come like 
incense wafted to us from below. 

Come Vs-ith me up into a high mountain. I cannot 
show you "all the kingdoms of the world," — but 
" the glory of them." Over a rippling ocean of for- 
ests first in long, swelling waves, now rising, now 
sinking down into deep hollows ; here in grand moun- 
tains, crested as with caps of foam, there tormented 
ly counter currents into wildly dashing shapes, like 
ocean billows frozen by Divine command, their sum- 
mits glittering granite, " their deep green troughs 
gleaming with threads of silver and bits of fallen sky. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Now the trees of the valley glide away behind us, 
now come dark spruce and pine and the sturdy balsam 
climbing the mountain-side, tall and graceful at first 
but as the mountains rise, growing smaller, gnarled 
and twisted, and scarce above the surface, sending 
their branches out close along the ground, their white 
tops blca jhed and ghastly, like dead roots of upturned 
trees ; lu >/ the hardy lichens ; now naked rock, and we 
stand on the wind-swept summit of " Tahawus," the 
cloud-piercer of the Indian. 

Around Tahawus cluster the other great mountains 
— east, west, north, south — limitless, numberless, a 
confused mass of peaks and ridges, crowding close 
up to the base of their chief, and receding in waves of 
green all down through the scale of color to its blue 
and purple edge. Pen can convey no idea of its sub- 
limity ; the pencil fails to even suggest the blended 
strength and delicacy of the scene. The rude laugh 
is hushed, the boisterous shout dies out on reverential 
lips, the body shrinks down feeling its own littleness, 
while the soul expands, and rising above the earth, 
claims kinship with its Creator, questioning not His 
existence. . 
Westward from the mountains, in a broad semi- 
circle, at an average elevation of i,6oo feet 
above tide, is the Great Lake Region, 
where a multitude of lakes and ponds form 
the head-waters of streams that radiate 
to all points, finding their way south to 
the Hudson, or at the west and north into the great 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 3 

lakes and through the St. Lawrence into the sea. 
These western lakes and streams are so closely con- 
nected that almost every mile of that section may be 
traversed by boat, save for short carries from one 
water system into another, or to go around some rapid 
or waterfall. 

The term Adirondack, interpreted to mean ' ' Bark- 
eater," was originally applied in derision by the In- 
dians of the south to tribes occupying the northern 
slope of the interior, and in time was used to desig- 
nate the mountains, until finally by common use it 
■was extended to include the entire wilderness. The 
section is an irregular oval, covering about go miles 
east and west and a hundred or more north and south, 
with its eastern third cut off by Lake George and 
Lake Champlain. Out of this is to be taken a con- 
siderable section of cleared and cultivated land 
around the border and in old settled valleys, leaving 
an area of wilderness of between 7,000 to 8,000 square 
miles. In the interior are numerous small clearings 
amounting to considerable in the aggregate but, like 
the spots on the sun, small compared^with the exist- 
ing wild section. 

The wilderness may be divided into three general 
divisions which, collectively, entertain the great bulk 
of visitors, namely the Lake Placid and the Saranac 
and St, Regis waters of the northwest. The moun- 
tain region of Essex County which includes Eliza- 
bethtown and Keene Valley with entrance at West- 
port ; and the Blue Mountain, Raquette and Long 













^TERS^' 







RAILROAD A.\D SI AGE ROUTES. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 5 

Lake waters of Hamilton County in the southwest. 
Each section while possessing something of the char- 
acteristics of the others, has its own special attractions, 
and while connected by natural highways over which 
the nomad often goes, still to a considerable extent, 
each preserves its own individuality, and is complete 
and suiTicient unto itself. Smaller but notable are 
Ch 'iVvold, Gale and Tupper Lake sections in St. 
Ln,-' :-;nce county and Fulton Chain and Beaver River 
i:: Ilei-kimer county. 

Essex cotmty is the most picturesque in high moun- 
tains and wild lakes, and is visited more than any 
other section by those who seek to delight the eye 
vrith beautiful scenes. The West is wildest in its 
tangle of woven lakes and streams that duplicate each 
•other over and over again throughout its broad ex- 
panse. The North is the oldest, the best known and 
visited and is also the most fashionable. The South 
is the tamest and of least interest and enterprise. 

A peculiarity of the Adirondack region is its freedom 
from rough or vicious characters. Evil finds nothing 
congenial in its bright skies and pure atmosphere. 
Conventionalities that obtain at other resorts are not 
held binding here. The fact of actual presence is ac- 
cepted as guaranty of the possession of those mutual 
sympathies and qualifications which here, at least, 
make the whole world kin. Ladies travel without 
male escort from one end of the wilderness to the 
other, indeed, it is no uncommon thing for parties to 
make the tour of the woods, accompanied only by the 




6 THE ADIRONUACKS. 

necessary complement of guide to furnish motive 
power, spending day after day in their boat, and each 
night reaching one step farther in the extended sys- 
tem of hotels. 

Full dress is seldom seen, even at the most fashion- 
able resorts, and is exceeded in absurdity only by the 
conventional stage trapper, who occa- 
sionally bursts upon the astonished wild- 
erness in fringed buckskin, and is marked 
at once as a "fresh." Your right to 
enter the best society will not be ques 
tioned because of dress. Clothing ordi- 
narily worn is sufficient for all occasions, 
with perhaps the addition of a soft felt 
hat and roomy walking shoes or boots for boat or 
tramp. Camp and Sporting Outfit, clothing, supplies, 
etc. , are given in a special chapter, with various sug- 
gestions. 

Hunting is standard sport here and the great at- 
traction to a majority of Adirondack visitors. Game 
of the smaller variety such as partridges, squirrels,, 
etc., can be found in the woods almost an3'where. 
Deer have increased in numbers within the past few 
years under the provisions of the law prohibiting 
their indiscriminate slaughter which the resident, from 
guide to hotel keeper, has learned was to his interest 
to see enforced. To the credit of the clubs, that get 
little but maledictions from the unattached sportsman 
generally for "fencing in" their land, be it said that 
these reservations under regulations which are held 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



binding on member and invited guest alike, are pro- 
lific nurseries for game that overflows into the sur- 
rounding forests and from which the casual sports- 
man derives unacknowledged benefit. The visitor 
should be lenient. Even the most bloated millionaire- 
?lub-member in existence has rights on this earth 
A'hich are entitled to thoughtful consideration. 

Trout are to be found in most Adirondack streams, 
generally in proportion to the whipping they get al- 
though the fish seem to thrive in some sections better 

than in others, 



while a careful 
observance o f 
the law and 
judicious re- 
stocking of 
streams has 
made certain 
sections notable 
above others to 
lovers of the 
gentle art. 
Trout, their habits and peculiarities, with sug- 
gestions as to outfit, fishing, etc. , is treated at length 
in a special chapter by A. N. Cheney, of Glens F'alls, a 
recognized authority in the matter whereof he speaks. 
It gives, in readable shape, more solid information of 
use to the fisherman than a whole library of ordinary 
fishing romances of the day, with their sensations, 
impressions, tingles, thrills and frills. 




8 THE ADIRONDACKS, 

In the net-work of ways and their multitude of 
branches traversing the wilderness continuity of pro- 
gress may not be. A comprehensive glance will help 
in acquiring necessary details. Information gathered 
from all available sources, has been arranged in the 
following pages on a carefully considered system. 
Here is the key. As a whole the ways into the wilder- 
ness are considered under the head of "Gateways." 
(See index.) Following, each gateway is given sepa- 
rately, with lines leading to particular centres, with 
distances and fares to points named. 

Expenses cannot be fairly estimated, varying widely 
as they do with the habits and requirements of dif- 
ferent individuals. If 3'ou go in channels having 
public conveyances, traveling expenses may be fairly 
determined by referring to fares, etc. , found under 
their appropriate heading. .If you go outside the 
public lines of travel you must have special convey- 
ance. If you travel by boat, or go into camp, you 
will require the service of a guide. 

Places of entertainment are scattered throughout 
the wilderness, ranging from the well appointed hotc^ 
to the log house of the interior and open camps where 

the guide is host and moves his -whole establishment 
if necessary to suit his guests. The jorices at the 

different houses range from one to four dollars a day 

and upward according to accommodations and service. 

Ordinarily the rates are very reasonable for standard 

accommodations, but you inust not expect all the 

modern conveniences at a dollar a day. They can be 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 







^y^i^^;^;^y,i" 



liad at many of the hotels, but it costs money to pro- 
vide them and the visitor must pay for it. When a 
hotel advertises board at so much "and upward" it 
means "and up- 
ward." Particulars 
concerning hotels, 
including price for 
board, accommoda- 
tions, etc., will be 
given in connection 
Avith the section 
Avhere such hotels 
are located, unless for some reason particulars do not 
reach me in time for the annual revision. For names 
of hotels see special index. 

Guides ordinarily receive $3 per day, furnishing 
boat and necessary cooking and table utensils. In 
camp you furnish the supplies, the guide cooks and 
dees other necessary camp work. He rows and 
"backs" the boat over the carries where there are 
no other means provided ; (at carries where horses 
are kept the employer is expected to pay for trans- 
portation). One guide and boat is ordinarily suffi- 
cient for two persons in traveling, but for independ- 
ence in fishing and hunting each sportsman should 
have his individual guide. If 3'ou employ a guide for 
any service at any hotel 3'ou are charged for his 
"keep" at one-half to two-thirds regular rates. 
There are two classes of guides, known respectively 
as "hotel " and "independent." The former are en- 




lO THE ADIRONDACKS. 

gaged for the season by hotel proprietors, who relet 
them to parties ; the latter must be dealt with per- 
sonally. There are good men in 
both classes, the nature of the 
surroundings usually determin- 
ing to which class they shall be- 
long, experience only can deter- 
mine their suitability for your 
peculiar wants. As a class they 
are a fine set of men. The best 
guides are often engaged for a 
year in advance, as some sportsmen would as soon 
think of going without his gun as without his favorite 
guide. 

If you go into camp and can afford the expense, 
take a trained cook along. Guides can as a rule, pre- 
pare an acceptable forest meal, and some are very 
skillful in that line, but the very qualities which con- 
tribute to make the successful guide — " the mighty 
hunter " — often renders him indifferent to the quality 
of his food, and incapable of understanding the crav- 
ings of a delicate appetite. At all events, carry a 
cook book. Camp fare is apt to become monotonous 
after a time, and although familiar with a hundred 
dishes, when brought face to face with the appalling 
necessity of preparing a straight meal, 3^our mind be- 
comes a blank and you drop weakly back to the same 
old stew of yesterda}^ — and the day before — and life 
becomes a burden. You are presumably out for pleas- 
ure, do not, therefore, make severe labor of it. Have 



THE Al)IROM)ACKS. II 

paid help sufficient to do camp work, if, at any time, 
inclination tempt you to watch the zenith from some 
mossy vantage ground, or to drift 
idly among the still waters, absorb- "^-n 

ing with newly awakened instincts .-; ---■""' . X 
the subtle lessons / ^ ^ V^"'- -^^^/\ 



y^'r^M 




taught by nature. J/// ^C-^ If /,m> u '-,-=iv- y 

The glor'i ously '^ff^^i- . ^ ■ ''^ % 

healthful air of *" . . &^ 

the wild e r n e s s 
will unquestion- 
ably give new life 
and vigor, but it 
labors at a disadvantage, if your bed of boughs afford 
no rest and sleep comes only with complete exhaus- 
tion, as often happens in the first few nights in camp. 
At such times the early morning f^uds ^'■ou pitably 
Aveak and languid instead of refreshed and ready to 
move simply because motion is a relief to the poor 
bruised body and aching joints. "Roughing it" is 
grand in theory, and sounds well in after history, but 
is bad in practice and often impedes if it does not en- 
tirely defeat the object for which it is undertaken. 

Parties have "done" the Adirondacks with map, 
book and compass, without the aid of a regular guide ; 
but the way is full of hardships for such that may be 
avoided by those accustomed to the country, while if 
comfort, distance, and time lost in out-of-the-way 
places are taken into consideration such a course is 
attended with but little economy. 




12 THE ADIROXUACKS. 

Bear in mind that this book is designed to give its 
readers in convenient shape information concerning 
points and places, roads and regions that can be 
visited over public ways ; matters of general interest 
to the ninety-and-nine, with hints and suggestions of 
the deeper mysteries of camp and trail to the hun- 
dredth one, that may pilot him to points where the 
intelligent giiide becomes a necessity, and beyond 

.^^^ _^ which, direc- 

^'^1 "^^-ir}^^ tion in book 
form w o u 1 d 
confuse, rathei 
than instruct. 
For the sake 
of clearness, 
therefore, I have omitted description of the multitude 
of smaller ponds, streams and trails which duplicate 
each other in many places, which no one should at- 
tempt to follow without an experienced guide. To 
those who would have a comprehensive idea of the 
whole region, it is hoped the map, designed to supple- 
ment the information contained herein, will be a 
welcome companion until it can be safely laid aside, 
for the more specific knowledge of the guide, whose 
office neither book nor map can ever fill. 

A large portion of the great Adirondack region has 
never been surveyed with chain and rod, but the 
rapid development of portions and the growing im- 
portance of the whole as a summer resort seem to call 
for a map made specially to meet the requirements 
of tourist and sportsman. 



THE yM)lR()NI)ArK.S. I3 

In the construction of this map all available sources 
of information have been brought into requisition. 
Important points outside the wilderness proper were 
determined in accordance with official surveys, and 
connected with the mountains of the interior, whose 
principal peaks were accurately located by triangulr.- 
tion made expressly for this work. Access was had 
to important survey's made under State patronage and 
by private parties. In addition to this absolutely reli- 
able material, drawings on an extended scale of small 
sections, covering in the aggregate the entire region, 
were sent in duplicate to men familiar with the va- 
rious localities for correction, and were made as full 
and complete as possible — careful attention being 
given to proportion and distance — with wild trails, 
carries, ponds and streams. Reduced to an uniform 
scale by photography, the result, it is believed, ap- 
proaches perfection as nearly as can be, short of 
actual trigonometrical surve3v^ It gives altitudes, the 
location of all hotels and principal camps, with roads 
leading thereto ; shows distance in figures on roads, 
trails and streams, and indicates also the nature of 
the latter in important instances. All roads within 
its limits are carefully laid down, the leading ones 
distinguished from those less important by being in 
solid black line, and indicating by their number or 
absence, the cultivated or wilderness nature of that 
region. The map was completed in 1S79 and is issued 
annually revised and corrected to date to keep pace 
with changes of road and trail, camp and hotel in this 
rapidly changing section. 



CHAPTER 11. 

Outfit, Camp, Supplies, Suggestions, Etc. 

MAKE out a complete list of articles that are con- 
sidered necessary or desirable in the proposed 
trip, each member for himself, in advance of the time 
of departure, then in committee of the whole decide 
on what is really necessary or suitable, taking into 
consideration the nature of the trip and means of 
reaching the appointed camping ground. If it be 
not over-difficult of access, carry anything which 
will contribute to your reasonable comfort, in the 
way of blankets, clothing, etc. 

For camp outfit and woods life the following is 
recoinmended. A complete change of underclothing ; 
two pairs of serviceable socks, but slightly heavier 
than you habitually wear at the season (soft wool is 
preferable) ; pair colored flannel shirts with wide col- 
lars, confined at the throat by a substantial silk hand- 
kerchief. (If the unaccustomed material chafes the 
neck the shirts may be put on outside the garment 
ordinarily worn in which case linen collars must not 
be forgotten.) The trowsers and vest should be of 
some strong woolen goods, the coat the same, cut 
rather short and to button close up to the neck. Have 
pockets, ample and numerous, with covers ; you will 
find use for them. Wear a soft felt hat with a 
reasonably wide brim. (By grasping it in a manner 
easily learned the rim forms a convenient drinking 
cup.) Do not commit the too common error of pro- 
curing new shoes or boots for the occasion. A pair 
of laced shoes, roomy, but not too loose, well broken 
to the foot, with broad soles and rather low heels, is 
best. The uppers should be of rather light grained 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



15 



rPT 




iirwi! 



"^T 



^4J>^^!3S5^ ^' ^ 



A POSSIBILITY. 






kip or water-proof leather. Have leather or canvas 
leggings, strapped under the instep and buttoning, or 
to lace at the side well up toward the knee. Boots 
may be used in place of shoes and leggings, if pre- 
ferred, but the evidence is largely in favor of the shoe. 
It is well to have a duplicate pair for alternates in 

wet weather, 
Rubber boots, 
although con- 
venient at 
times, are not 
suitable for 
general wear 
or for travel- 
ing. A light 
overcoat will 
be found very 
comfortable at 
times. Among 
the necessaries 
should be included rubber coat and overalls for use in 
rainy weather, for the best fishing is often found under 
dripping clouds. Have also a light rubber blanket 
to throw over the knees and feet when in boat, or 
to protect you, in sleeping, from moisture below or 
above. For lounging in camp take a pair of common 
canvas slippers and sew on them clolh tops to come 
up around the ankle, and tie outside the trowsers. 
For sleeping at night — if you have moral courage 
sufficient to stand before your fellows in such a gear — 
a single garment of any suitable material — (calico if 
you like) — combining shirt, drawers and stockings 
without opening save the necessary one of entrance 
at the top, to button close about the neck, will be 
found wonderfully comforting while wandering ants 
and inquisitive though harmless bugs may be mak- 
ing life miserable for those with only the ordinary 



i6 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



garments, A further addition may be made in shape 
of a friar's hood attached at back of neck. A light 
cloth or silk cap will be found comfortable for night 
use if 3^ou don't take kindly to the above. 

Ladies' outfit contemplates a subject in which I 
Avould not presume to dictate ; I have learned better. 
I humbly submit, however, that it is your first duty 
to make yourself as attractive as possible, subject only 
to the requirements of place and season. I would 
suggest that, whatever may be allowable in the way 
of " fine " dressing, it is not con- 
sidered necessary, or even in 
good taste. Often the sweetest 
girls that ever brightened the 
wilderness with their presence 
reign queens of the evening in 
the same bewitching costume in 
which they boated and climbed 
the mountains in the early morn- 
ing. Consult some lady friend 
who has spent a season in the 
woods as to what constitutes a 
suitable outfit. In absence of other infor- 
mation the following is suggested for boat, 
camp and tramp. Underclothing, such as 
experience has shown best suited to the sea- 
son and your individual comfort, giving 
fine flannel the preference in all but the very warmest 
weather. Underskirts should generally be of dark 
flannel, although, if much walking is to be done, one 
of dark cotton will be found an agreeable substitute 
as less clinging than woolen. A becoming dress may 
be made of blue or gray flannel or ladies' cloth. It 
may be pleated back and front, gathered at the 
waist, or fitting loosely to the form, but should in any 
case allow perfect freedom in the use of the arms. 
The skirt should be not overfull, and cut a finger 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 7 

shorter than the ordnary walking dress. Trim but 
little, in shades of same color as body ; a cord at 
wrist, collar and waist-band, with a knot of ribbon 
or a wild flower at the throat, is sufficient. A dainty 
bit of ruffling or old lace about the neck transforms 
the morning into an evening toilet. Wear a soft felt 
hat ^\•ith wide brim ; trim with forest leaves. Wear 
a lady's hat, if they differ from a mean's. Donf 
ape masculinity in dress. The average Adirondack 
sportsman does not admire it, although, if confronted 
by the horrid fact he is often too much of a gentle- 
jTian to tell the truth. Wear dark serviceable hose 
and substantial roomy Balmoral boots, with broad 
soles and low, broad heels. AVear Lisle thread, cotton 
or doeskin gloves. They may be made with long 
wristlets to button or tie outside the dress sleeve, 
to guard against possible attack of black fly or mos- 
quito. A chatelaine belt and pocket, with tin drink- 
ing cup, etc. , is convenient. A light sun umbrella of 
the walking-stick pattern is a comfort in rain or shine. 
A shawl will often be found acceptable of an evening 
following the warmest of days. Carr}^ a rubber or 
waterproof circular with hood, a pair of light rubber 
overshoes and a piece of light rubber cloth to throwr 
over the lap and feet if surprised in a boat by one of 
those fast-moving Adirondack showers. 

In rough weather sit or lie low in the boat ; never ^ 
at such times, grasp the sides to support yourself. A 
skillful boatman will manage in safety one of those 
light Adirondack shells in the roughest of water, if 
allowed entire control of boat and load. Go fearlessly 
into the woods. It is stated on the highest authority 
that not a noxious plant or venomous serpent exists 
in the Adirondacks. 

In selecting a camping place during warm weather, 
choose an island or an exposed point free from under- 
brush where the wind will, to a great extent, free you 



i8 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



from the mosquito and fly. In cool weather, it is 
needless to say, choose the thicket ; in either case, 
remember that a cold spring or brook and material 
for the camp-fire conveniently near adds very much 
to your comfort. A bar1< or bough camp will do in 
absence of anything better, but is nothing like as 
comfortable or convenient as a tent. An "A" tent, 
seven by eight feet on the ground, affords comfort- 
able sleeping room for four, and on occasion five or even 
six. A rope, passing through lengthwise at the top 
and out at the ends, takes the place of ridge pole, 
and may be fastened to convenient trees or over 
crotched sticks cut the proper height, and tied to 

stakes. The ma- 
terial should be 
of cotton (water 
and mildew- 
proof), and com- 
plete, need not 
weigh more than 
nine to twelve 
poun d s. In 
pitching the 
tent, if on a side 
hill, dig a " A " 
shaped trench to 
lead running wa- 
ter on either 
side ; if on the level, ditch all around. A wall tent 
is better than a circular or an " A " tent. If a long 
stay is anticipated, it pays to build log sides on which 
to mount the tent, and cover with a " fly" to insure 
certain protection from rain. A sheet-iron camp- 
stove can be procured of the dealers, or may be easily 
made to answer every purpose, and pays if 3-our stay 
in one place be long enough to warrant the trouble of 
transportation. In mailing your bed of boughs, re- 




THE ADIROXDACKS. I9 

member that solid wood, if fitted to the form, is as 
comfortable as a bed of down. Apply the fact by- 
burrowing or hollowing out cavities to fit the project- 
ing points of hip and shoulder. Cover the boughs 
with a rubber blanket, in addition to which each mem- 
ber of the party should have a pair of heavy woolen 
l^ankets. A small bag, to be filled with leaves or 
moss is an improvement on a pair of boots when used 
as a pillow, but not all that nature craves ; and at 
the risk of exciting ridicule — from idiots — I am free 
to recommend a small, well-filled feather pillow. It 
pays for itself in a single night's use. A few yards 
of mosquito netting drawn across the front of the 
tent after a good smudge is a luxury which declares 
a big diurnal dividend. For long, forced marches, a 
hammock made of cotton duck with a cover of the 
same, but somewhat shorter, buttoned over at each 
side, and forming a sort of pocket, is, with the addi- 
tion of rubber blanket, bed and tent combined. A 
little ingenuity will suggest manner of arranging 
hoops over the face to cover with canvass or mosquito 
netting, as circumstances may require. 

Don't expect your guide to double 
carries habitually, rather reduce your 
baggage or get extra packmen for its 
transportation — or carry a part of the 
" duffle" yourself. 

A champaigne basket, covered with 
waterproof cloth and provided with 
shoulder loops for carrying, makes an 
admirable pack basket. A rubber, or 
waterproof bag, or an ordinary two- 
bushel grain bag, with carrying loops 
of webbing, may be used for extra cloth- 
ing, blankets, etc. Let your load rest well down on. 
the back to carry. 

The camp kit may consist of a long-handled frying 




20 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

pan, a deep stew pan with a cover, a nest of three or 
four covered tin pails, for water, tea, coffee, etc., pint 
tin cups, tin plates, a wire toaster of the gridiron pat- 
tern, a ladle or large iron spoon, table and teaspoons, 
knives and forks, and last but not least, soap, dish 
cloths and towels. 

Carry a pocket compass with you at all times — the 
best woodsmen are often temporarily at fault. An 
ordinary lantern for camp use, candles, matches (a few 
wind-proof and water-proof), towels, tooth brush, 
comb, pocket mirror, pans, needles and thread, a few 
extra buttons to match those worn, oil or tallow for 
your boots, stamped envelopes, light hunting knife in 
sheath, light axe in sheath. Carr}' a supply of light 
reading of the convenient Franklin Square or Lake- 
side pattern. Take no large boxes with sharp corners, 
nor any article too heavy or unwieldy for one man to 
handle. 

Camp supplies may be had from hotels generally, 
but many prefer to carry their own. Veterans need 
no advice, but to the novice the following suggestions 
are made. First, consult your cook book. See what 
is needed in the preparation of proposed dishes and 
provide accordingly. The following list contains the 
staple articles : Wheat, Graham tlour, corn, and 
oat meal, beans, Boston and soda crackers, lem^on 
biscuit, baking powder, self-raising flour, maple sugar, 
loaf sugar, tea, coffee, condensed milk, bottled horse- 
radish, mustard, vinegar, pepper and salt in boxes 
with perforated covers, dried frviit, canned fruit, but- 
ter (packed in salt and enclosed in hermetically sealed 
cans, which can be anchored in spring holes or under 
cold running water.) Bacon is extremely nice when 
sweet, as is also pork, unpoetical but palatable, and 
on occasion taking place of butter and all the 
seasonings. Dried beef is an iniportant item ; 
" jerked venison," one af the best things imaginable 



THE ADIROXDACKS. 



21 



to caiT}?- when setting out for a tramp ; (ask your guide 
to show you how it is prepared.) For relishes — 
shades of mighty trout and speckled beauties forgive 
us — take a box of red herring. Bermuda onions fill 
an aching void which nothing >else can fill. Canned 
beef, pork and beans, corn, tomatoes, condensed soup, 
etc. , may be added. Fresh vegetables and potatoes 
can be had from the hotels. Carry no liquor ; if wet 
and cold, Jamaica ginger has all the heating proper- 
ties of whisky ; while strong black coffee is a better 
stimulant, with none of the evil ef- 
fects following. 

The Medicine Chest need not be 
extensive. It should, however, con- 
tain cathartic pills and a cholera, 
medicine of some kind ; a small 
bottle of collodion (composed of 
equal parts of alcohol and either, 
with gun-cotton added) about the 
consistency of heavy varnish ; (apiDlied to burns and 
small wounds, this collodion forms an artificial skin, 
impervious alike to air and water) ; ammonia (to allay 
irritation arising from bites of insects) , cold cream or 
glycerine (for chapped face or hands) ; court-plaster, 
seidlitz powders, ointment and adhesive plasters, lint 
and bandages, to use in case of emergency. To stop 
the flow of blood from wounds, bind on equal parts 
of flour and common salt ; for burns, apply wheat 
flour or collodion. 

Insect preparation may be procured of the drug- 
gist, or compounded by ^^ourself. The most conven- 
ient, auvd effective perhaps as any, is six parts of mut- 
ton tallow to one of oil of pennyroyal, with a little 
camphor added. Tar ointment in the proportion of 
two ounces of sweet oil and one of oil of tar is good. 
("A coating of the grease from ham rinds, well 
rubbed on, is the best yet known," says George K. 




22 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Holmes, of Great Barrington, Mass.) Anoint ex- 
posed portions of the person with any of the above, 
then stand back and mark the frenzy of the baffled 
punkey. 

Do not rely on what books tell you about sporting 
outfit. If you know nothing about the subject place 
yourself under the direction of some one who does, and 
trust him until you can judge for yourself. The most 
enticing of fancy flies in the hands of a greenhorn 
will not yield much sport — except to outsiders — and 
the grandest achievement in modern firearms re- 
quires some 



skill m usmg. 
If you have the 
requisite skill, 
■carry a rifle ; if 
not, a fowling- 
piece is better. 
For light game, 
birds, etc., 
there is per- 
haps no more 
convenient o r 
serviceable arm 
to carry into 

camp than the "pocket" rifle, manufactured by the 
J. Stevens Arms and Tool Company of Chicopee 
Falls, Mass. A 12 to 15-inch barrel, 32-calibre, is 
recommended. The weight is less than three pounds. 
A shot-gun barrel is also made to fit the same frame, 
so that either may be used at will. 

Are you artistic ? Carry a camera of the Kodak 
pattern or v^nth small plate. A plate large enough to 
make a lantern slide yields a larger percentage of com- 
fort compared with trouble than any other size made. 




CHAPTER III. 

Lake Champlain and the Eastern Border 
Resorts 

SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, a Frenchman, was the 
first white man known to have seen the Adiron- 
dacks when, in 1609, he accompanied a band of Indians 
from the St. Lawrence on an expedition against their 
southern enemies, and as graphically told by the ad- 
venturer himself ' ' encountered a war party of the 
Iroquois on the 2gth of the month, about ten o'clock 
at night, at the point of a cape which puts out into the 
lake on the west side." A battle ensued in which 
Champlain astonished the enemy and proved the su- 
periority of fire-arms over savage spear and arrow. 
This happened the same year that Hendrick Hudson 
sailed up the river that now bears his name, and 
eleven years before the pilgrims landed on Pl3'mouth 
Rock. Champlain wrote an account of the affair, call- 
ing the sheet of water explored by his own name — 
Lake Champlain; It may be worthy of note that 
exactly two centuries after Champlain' s passage in a 
canoe, and one year after Fulton's steamboat went up 
the Hudson, the first steamboat was launched on Lake 
Champlain. 

Liake Cliainplain is very like a long, slim radish 
in shape, with long roots and outbranching river 
fibers. Whitehall is at the little (south) end of the 
radish ; at Burlington it is quite a respectable vege- 
table ; then come blotches of rock and islands, and 
beyond that, the leaves, spreading out on either side 
and toward the North overlapping the Canada line. 

On the east is Vermont, sweeping away in a broad,, 
23 



24 



THE ADIRONUACKS. 



" 



FlOUSESPOlNT; 



pyATTSBUR 
1 BLUFF PT 
•OfiTJACKSO 
PORT KENT 



ESSEX 



VEST PORT 




CROWN POIH" 
T1CON0ERQ6 




MAQUAM 
ST ALBANS B. 



oBURUHGTON 



OCEOAR BEACH 



.VERGENNES 



p|ORTHENRYy,f 
FTFRECERIC^CROWN PT RUINS 



cultivated plain that gradually ascends to the ridges 
of the Green Mountains. Along the southern and 
central portion of the lake the rocky, western shores 
come abruptly to the water's edge. Backward, rising 
ridge on ridge, the highest, misty with distance, are 
the Adirondack mountains. Here and there are little 

bits of cultivated 



land and breaks in 
the mountains that 
are the gateways to 
the wilderness. Far- 
ther north the moun- 
tains fall away from 
the lake and a level, 
well-cultivated coun- 
try presents itself. 

The distance from 
AVhitehall to Fort 
^Montgomery, accord- 
ing to the United 
States coast survey, 
is 10714^ miles. Its 
greatest width, 
which is near the 
outlet of Ausable 
river, is i2ig miles. 
;M e a s u r i n g north 
into Missisquoi bay 
on the east side, 
(which extends down 
into Canada, and is 
separated from the 



LARRABEES POINT 



J 



MAP OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN 



Showing Steamboat Route. 

■outlet by Alburgh Tongue), the extreme length or 
the lake 'is about 118 miles. Its elevation above tide 
is 99 feet. Its greatest depth (at a point ijg miles 
southeast of Essex landing) 399 feet. 

The principal islands are near the north end. The 
two largest are known respectively as North and South 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Hero, and collectively as Grand Isle, the two forming- 
a county of Vermont. 

Wliiteliall, at the head of Lake Champlain, is. 
219 miles north of New York, and 7S from Albany. 




The "D. & H/' Railroad extending along the 
west shore of Lake Champlain, is a link in the air line 
between New York and Montreal, and the main artery 
of travel between the two great cities At various 
points, rail or stage routes diverge, leading into the 
wilderness. 

Steamboats, in which the traveling public may 
have an interest, belong to the Champlain Transporta- 
tion Company of which Captain George Rushlow is 
General ^lanager, with office at Burlington, Vt. 

Steamer Vermont, Captain R. Arbuckle, is a 
graceful vessel, designed specially for pleasure travel. 
It leaves Plattsburg at 7 a. m. , touches at intermediate 
landings and reaches Fort Ticonderoga about noon, 



















^^^-^ 






3?i? 









f: 




i^ .'f'i 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 27 

connecting there with trains for the south and for the 
steamer on Lake George. Returning over the same 
route reaches Plattsburgh about 7 p. m. (See map 
page 24.) Steamboat and railroad tickets are inter- 
changeable between Ticonderoga and Plattsburgh. 

Steamer Cbateau^ay, Captain Baldwin, leaves 
Westport at 7 a. m. daily, Sundays excepted, and 
touching at points (see map), reaches North Hero at 
12:15 ; returning, touches as above, and arrives at 
Westport 7 p. M. 

Fort Ticonderoga* is 24 miles from Whitehall 
on a bold promontory between the outlet of Lake 
George and the waters of Lake Champlain. Here 
were enacted the principal events in the play of the 
Lake, where savage tribes contended for the country 
on either hand, and three great nations struggled for 
the prize of a continent. Here precious blood flowed 
like water for it was the key to the ' ' gate of the coun- 
try," and by its position elected to become historic 
ground. The name is the composite of over a dozen 
different attempts to convey in English the Indian 
sound of Tienderoga, Cheonderoga, or as we have it 
now — " Ticonderoga" — meaning the coming together 
or meeting of waters. 

The old battery on the bluff is said to have been the 
original Carillon built by the French in 1755. Back 
on the higher ground are the barrack walls, trenches, 
two bastions, and the best preserved portion of the 
ruins — a bomb-proofroom, which some authorities say 
was the magazine, while others contend that it was the 
humble but equally necessary bakery. On the east, 
by the side of the road, is the old fort well. Leading 
from the southeast corner of the parade toward this. 



*En passojtt. For more extended description, and histori- 
cal matter see "Lake George & Lake Champlain," similar 
to this volume in price and size, and containing a large map' 
of the lakes. 



28 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



is the covered way, through which Ethan Allen went 
in the gray of the morning, in 1775. On the west is 
Mount Defiance. BetM-een it and the fort the outlet 
of Lake George enters Lake Champlain. At the 
southeast, the lake is 
narrowed down by ^^;!?=^^^^]^0OXD^ 
the near approach v<?^^>>m\\\\\i\'il(!''/i///'y//A'^ 
of Mount Jnde 
pendence, Jy'^^. 
which was /^6^. 
also forti- //^!^^:§; 
iied while /^Si^.^- 
St. Claire 
held com- 
m a n d ; 
between 
the two 
points 
ran the 
chain, or 
float i n g, 
bridge. 
The lake 
here turns 
toward the 
north, thus ^^ ash- 
ing three sides of 
the promontory. 

Hotel accommodations mav be found in the old 
Fort Ticonderoga Hotel in the locust grove east of 
the ruins, at a moderate price. The Burleigh House 
at the village of Ticonderoga, two miles west on the 
road to Lake George, is a house with modern im- 
provements and excellent fare. From Ticonderoga 
north the traveler can go by steamer leaving about 
1:30 p. M., and touching at lake ports or bv train along 
the west shore, reaching Plattsburgh at night. 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 29 

Crown Point is 1 1 miles north of Ticonderoga. 
Here are the furnaces of the Crown Point Iron Com- 
pany, and the terminus of a 
narrow-gauge railway, which 
extends back 13 miles to iron 
mines at Hammondville, 
1,300 feet above the lake. 

Tlie Lake House is on a 
point north of the steamboat 
landing. M. Gilligan, propri- 
etor. Rates, $2 per day ; $8 to 
$6 per week. Free convey- 
ance to boats and trains. 
There are excellent roads for riding or driving and 
line lishing, either in the lake or up the willowy creek 
that enters near by — delightful for rowing and a fa- 
vorite haunt of the voracious pickerel. The hotel 
sets a most wholesome table and is the hotel to be 
preferred here. 

Crown Point Ruins are six miles north of Crown 
Point landing. The lake is here narrowed down by 





APPROACH'-NG CROWN POINT FUINS FROM THE SOUTH. 

I Crown Point Light House ; 2 Port Henry ; 3 Chimney Point. 

the land extending from the west on which the ruins 
stand, its easternmost point marked by a stone light- 
house. Chimney Point approaches from the east side. 
Beyond the light-house, at the narrowest place in the 
passage, are the scarcely visible remains of Fort St. 
Frederick, built by the French in 1731. Crowm Point 



•^-J 










THE AUIRONDACKS. 



31 



Fort standing over toward the west was commenced 
by Amherst in 1759, and completed at an expense of 
Os-er ten million dollars. The extensive earth-works, 
and the walls of the barracks, still in a good state of 
preservation, 
indicate the 
strength and 
extent of the 
fortification — 
from which, 
however, n o 
gun was ever 
fired at an 
a p proaching 
foe. Dr. Bix- 
by designates 
the shores of 
the peninsula 
west of the 
ruins as the 
probable site 
of Ch a m- 
plain's battle 
with the Iro- 
quois in i6og. 

Fort Frederick (landing) is just north of the 
light-house. A board walk extends from the dock 
back to the ruins. Refreshment rooms, a public pa- 
vilion, etc. , have been built here by the Champlain 
Transportation Company, for accommodation and en- 
tertainment of excursion parties. 

Port Henry, two miles northwest of Crown Point 
Ruins, is exceedingly picturesque, with a number of 
elegant private residences, occupied by the iron mag- 
nates of that section. The Lake Champlain and Mo- 
riah R. R. is seven miles long, extending from Port 
Henry to the ore beds at Mineville, i , 300 feet above. 





S\|* 



< i ml 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



33 



The grade at one point is 256^2 feet to the mile. The 
average is 211 feet. It contains three " Y's," where 
the nature of the ascent renders a curve impracti- 
cable. Mineville is the centre of the mining opera- 
tions of the region, and is a wonderful revelation to 
the novice in mining scenes. 

The Chever Ore Bed is two miles north of Port 
Henry, near the lake shore. 

The Y. M. C. A. of Albany has a small camp on 
No-Man's Island about a mile south of the Barber 
Point Light House — the summer rendezvous of a 
large number of Association men and boys, who 
" rough it " in the most approved style under the su- 
pervision of the General Secretary. They are a jolly 
lot, and welcome visitors with right good will. 

Westport is a pretty little village, on a deep bay, 

setting into the 
western shore, 50 
miles north of 
Whitehall. It is the 
natural gateway 
into the mountains 
via Elizabethtown 
and Keene Valley 
(see index), and 
possesses a 1 1 r a c - 
tions of its own that 
recommend it 
strongly to the 
summer visitor. 

The Westport 
Inn stands on the 
brow, of an ab- 
rupt eminence a hundred feet above the lake and 
overlooks a tennis lawn shaded by fine elms, the 
picturesque steamboat landing, the great sweeping 
amphitheatre of hillside leading away to right and 




3-^ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 




left, the circling shore of the "bay and the beautiful 
chain of the Green Mountains across in A'ermont, 
The house has broad piazzas and is neat and well 
furnished from basement to belvedere. It has cozy 
parlors and dining-room, with large open fire-places. 
The table is superior and the service most efficient. 
There are bath rooms and perfect drainage. Water 
comes from a wonderful mountain spring 500 feet 

a 1> o V e the 
^.J- ' -iii i iLHi lake. A 
num b e r of 
detached 
cottages 
add to the 
attractio n s, 
furnish i n g 
altog ether 
a c c o m m o- 
dations f o r 
150 guests. A livery stable under the patronage of 
the house in combination with picturesque drives of- 
fer amusement in variety. If this is not enough, good 
boating and fishing facilities and bathing places 
with fine bottom, and convenient bath houses, are 
here. A circulating library. Post Office and tele- 
graph office are near by. Mrs. O. C. Daniell, assisted 
by Mrs. H. C. Lyon, is in management. Rates $3 to 
$4 per day. By the week from $10 to $21. 

Richards House, is situated at the northern 
border of the village overlooking the picturesque 
shore that circles toward the east. M. A. Clarke, 
proprietor. Post-office address, Westport, capacity 75, 
rates $2 per da5% $8 to $12 per week. Free bus to and 
from boats and trains, open all the year. The house 
stands on high ground ; its immediate surround- 
ings are pleasant, the village street leading away 



THE ADIRf>NDACKS. 35 

down into the open country at the north, picturesque. 
It was of old a noted hostelry in this section. It was 
later remodeled to keep pace with the requirements of 
later times and is inviting and homelike. A large 
annex, designed more especially for the accommoda- 
tion of summer visitors stands close by, the two con- 
nected by a platform, an extension of the piazza which 
continues along b<jth buildings giving 150 feet of 
covered promenade. This newer building contains 
desirable sleeping" quarters for those who may wish 
to withdraw from the bustle of the hotel, which is a 
point that prospective guests may think worth con- 
sidering in arranging for accommodations. The main 
part of the hotel is kept open during winter, afford- 
ing desirable quarters for commercial travel which 
constitutes so large a share of the winter business of 
northern hotels. The proprietor is one of the most 
genial fellows, obliging and pleasant under the most 
trying circumstances. The hotel livery furnishes 
light or heavy mountain rigs suitable for long drives. 
Those who contemplate a trip into the woods from 
this direction are advised to see Mr. Clark and ar- 
range for transportation. It is possible more style 
may be found in fancy livery establishments, but 
"handsome is as handsome does " and the amount 
of "go" developed by the Richards House stock has 
made it notable among long distance drivers. 

"The Westport" at the Raih-oal Station will pio 
vide for about thirty. Open the year round. George 
Howe, Jr., proprietor. This house must not be con- 
founded with "The Westport Inn" referred to on 
page 33. 

The " Water Lily," a small propeller, runs from 
Westport to Vergennes daily, on arrival of the steamer 
Vermont from the south, returning in the morning to 
connect with the south bound boat. The AVater Lily 
is notable among steamboats as having a woman at 



36 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



the wheel, in the person of Mrs. Captain Daniels, 
who is said to be the first and only regularly licensed 
woman pilot in the United States. 

Calamity Point is about two miles north of 
Westport. Here the steamer Champlain was wrecked 
in 1875 while running north on her regular night trip. 
The immediate cause of the disaster has never been 
explained, as the night was no more than ordinarily 
dark, but since that time, day or night, when running, 
the pilot-houses of the sister boats invariably contain 
two competent men. Captain Rushlow, now general 
manager, was then in command of the Champlain, 
and it was due to his cool self-possession that no panic 
ensued to lead to loss of life. 



~-^-v^^?C 




SPLIT ROCK FROM THE NORTH. 

I Grand View Mt., Vt.; 2 Split Rock Light; 3 Split Rock. 

Split Rock Mountain extends along the west 
shore, terminating in a sharp point 8 miles north of 
Westport. Barn Rock (a corruption probably of Bar- 
ren Rock) shows the upturned edges of strata lying at 
a sharp angle with the surface in a bold point enclos- 
ing a deep harbor. " The Palisades," a little way 
north, are grand perpendicular cliffs. Rock Harbor, 
a mile further north, shows an "effort," where Goth- 
am's one time Boss, Tweed, tried his hand at digging 
ore. Grog Harbor — a charming little cove despite 
its name — is near the northern end of the mountain. 

Split Rock is at the northern termination of the 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



37 



mountain bearing the same name. In the uncertain 
records of old Indian treaties, it is claimed that this 
rock marked the boundary line between the tribes of 
the St. Lawrence and those of the Mohawk Valley. 

Otter Creek enters the lake from the east some- 
thing over live miles north of Westport. This is the 
longest river in Vermont and is navigable t<^ Vergen- 
nes whose spires may be seen some distance inland. 
Fort Cassin stood at the mouth of Otter Creek. Bits 
of the ruins are still visible. Within the creek a portion 
of the American squadron was fitted out in 1814, 
which, under Commodore McDonough defeated the 
British Commodore Downie, at Plattsburgh, in Sep- 
tember of that year. 

Vergennes is eight miles back from the lake as 
Otter Creek runs, although in an air line but little more 
than half that distance. It is one of the oldest cities 
in New England, chartered in 17S8. It is also the 
smallest incorporated city in the country. The city 
limits include an area of i j^xii^ miles. 

Essex, a small village on the west shore, is 10 
miles north of AVestport. The Boquet river empties 
into the lake four miles north of Es- 
sex landing. It is navigable for about 
a mile. It was a rendezvous of Bur- 
goyne's flotilla in the advance on 
Ticonderoga, in 1777, and in 1812 was 
entered by British gunboats to work 
the destruction of the little village 
of Willsborough. a mile inland. 

Willsborough Point, a low 

peninsula about four miles long by. 

one wide, separates Willsborough 

Ba}^ from the main lake. Railroad 

station is Willsborough, five miles distant at the 

south. 

Tbe Four Brotlaers are near the middle of the 




38 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

lake, east of Willsborough Point. Here occurred the 
running engagement between Benedict Arnold and 
Captain Pringle, in 1776, in Avhich the English were 
victorious. Juniper Island is northeast of the 
Brothers with high, almost vertical walls, surmounted 
by a lighthouse. 

After leaving Essex Landing the boat passes out 
into the broadening lake, gradually nearing the Ver- 
mont side in the approach to Burlington. Back in- 
land are the two highest peaks of the Green Moun- 
tains — Mansfield, 4,360 feet above the tide, and 
Camel's Hump, the Leon Coiichant of the French. 

Shelburne Farm, the summer place of Dr. W. Sew- 
ard Webb, is on the east shore. North extends Shel- 
burne peninsula terminating at Pottier's Point. 

Shelburne Harbor is east of Pottier's Point. 
Here are the shipyards of the Champlain Transporta-. 
tion Company. It is worthy of note that but one 3^ear 
after Robert Fulton's steamboat was launched on the 
Hudson River a steamboat was launched at Burling- 
ton. It could run five miles an hour without heating 
the shaft ! 

La Plotte river empties into Shelburne Harbor. 
Its name is of Revolutionary origin. A party of In- 
dians left their canoes unguarded on the banks while 
making a raid on the scattered settlement beyond. 
They were driven back by the whites and took to 
their canoes for safety. But the canoes had been dis- 
covered and riddled with holes by some pr^nng settlers 
who now proceeded to riddle the savages also. The 
Green Mountain Boys were very artistic in these 
. little affairs. 

Rock Dunder is a prominent object, as we near 
Burlington. It is a sharp cone 20 feet high, above 
water, believed by AVinslow C. Watson, the historian, 
to be the famous " Rock Regio " so frequently men- 
tioned 111 colonial records. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 3i^ 

Burlington is a city of nearly 15,000 inhabitants, 
80 miles north of Whitehall. It is one of the largest 
lumber marts in the country, standing fourth in the 
order of business. The lirms represent a capital of 
$4,000,000. 150,000,000 feet of lumber are sold an- 
nually from the markets. Three railroads centre 
here — the Central Vermont, the Burlington & La- 
moille, and the Rutland & Burlington. 

The Cliamplain Transportation Company- 
has its general office here. Captain George Rushlow, 
general manager. Its steamers run to connect with 
the D. & H. trains on the west shore, and to Adiron- 
dack points. The Lake Champlain Yacht Club has 
an elegant club house a little way north of the steam- 
boat landing. 

The University of Vermont is located here, crown- 
ing the hill, on the western slope of which the prin- 
»cipal part of the city lies. Among other public build- 
ings of interest are the Medical College, Billings Li- 
brary building, Vermont Episcopal Institute, St. Jo- 
seph's College, Park Gallery of Art, Fletcher Free 
Library, the Mary Fletcher Hospital, and the Young 
Men's Christian Association building. 

On the high land, back of the city, overlooking 
Wmooski Valley, is the Green Mountain Cemetery, 
where lies the body of Vermont's famous son, Ethan 
Allen. A monument of Barre granite, 50 feet in 
height, surmounted l)y a statue of Allen, marks the 
spot, and is a shrine often visited by admirers of 'the 
Hero of Ticonderoga. 

Hotels. Van Ness, American and Hotel BurHng- 
ton are the best. 

Colchester Point reaches out half way across the 
broad lake north of Burlington, and still further west 
are Colchester reef and light-house —a blood-red light 
marking the outermost rock at night. 

Schuyler Island is a large cultivated island lying 



40 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



near the west shore. Trembleau Mountain is beyond, 
terminating at Trembleau Point. 

Port Douglas is the deepest curve of Corlears 
Bay, west of Schuyler Island, at the south of Trem- 
bleau Mountain. The section is wild and picturesque 
and but little developed. Some enthusiastic admirer 
has called it the Naples of Lake Champlain. Certain 
trains on the D. & H. will stop during the season, for 
which see time-tables. Hotel Douglas, John L. 
Mock, manager, is here overlooking the lake. Ca- 
pacity 50. Rates $2 per day ; $8 to $15 per week. 
Open June ist. Post-office address, Douglas. 

Port Kent is 10 miles from Burlington. Below, 

the town is not 
attractive, but 
above, along 
the brow of the 
hill are several 
very pleasant, 
comf ortabl e 
looking houses, 
among them the 
old home of El- 
kanah Watson, 
the historian. 
Trembleau Hall 
a boarding 
house, will ac- 
commodat e 

about 20 guests. 

Farrel] & A<li;-ate,~proprieiors. Rates unknown. 

The K., AuS. C. &L.. C. R. R., runs from Port Kent 
to Keeseville, passing over ///f chasm a short distance 
below Rainbow Falls. The road is five miles long 
and was built primarily in the interest of the Au Sable 
Horse Nail works at Keeseville. 




The Lake View House from its commanding 
position overlooks the long slope down to the shores 
of Lake Champlain toward the east, and at the west, 
the valley through which comes the An Sable river, 
the little hamlet of An Sable Chasm, and the head of 
the Gorge into which the river plunges in spray- 
draped Rainbow Falls. The accommodations in 
house and cottages are sufficient for a hundred guests 
but the dining capacity is practically unlimited. 
Rates $2. 50 per day, with special terms for the week 
or season. Open June i to October 15. Stop-over 
privileges are given passengers by rail .and boat at 
P(jrt Kent. The hotel carriage conveys guests tf) and 
from the Chasm station for 25 cents the round trip. 
W. H. Tracy, proprietor. The hotel and Chasm are 
under one management and Mr. Tracy ma)' be ad- 
, dressed for particulars relating to either. 

Au Sable Cliasin is the Yosemite in miniature ! 
Here the impetuous Au Sable, coming out from the 
mountains of the south, breaks, after many a rush 
and tumble, over the rocks in beautiful Rainbow 
Falls, then hurrying downward through devious wa3'S, 
imder towering cliffs and through dark places where 
the sun never shines, finally emerges into the broader, 
willowy way, to mingle after many a twist and turn 
with the quiet waters of Lake Champlain. The walls 
that now stand apart, were united and solid in the 
past ; projections on the one side are faced by corres- 
ponding depressions on the other ; strata broken off 
here are continued over there. Low down are found 
petrified specimens of the first orders of animal life, 
and ripple marks made when the rock, in its plastic 
state, was the bed of some lake or ocean ; above in 
cuccessive lavers, are nearly a himdred feet of r:olid 
rock. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 43 

Who can say what ages have passed away since 
the restless sea beat upon this unknown shore and 
left the marks of its wavelets for us to wonder at ? 
Thought is lost away back in the eternity of ' ' The 
Beginning" when darkness was upon the face of the 
deep. Later, with the dawn of Creation, and in its 
full light, the lowest of animal creatures lived their 
brief day and added their mite to old Ocean's bot- 
tom. Long ages passed away. Floods swept across 
the uneasy earth that reeled and staggered with the 
pulsations of its mighty heart of fire. Its thin shell 
bubbled up into mountain ridges, and broke like 
crackle glass, then, cooling, left its lines in ragged 
heights and fearful depths, over which great glaciers 
came grinding uplifted points, polishing, leveling and 
filling up. Then the ice retreated to its northern 
home. The rains descended, the floods came out of 
the mountains filled with great rocks and sharp flint 
an 1 grinding quartz, to gnaw its way deeper and 
deeper into the soft rock until in the fullness of our 
day is revealed the wonderland of " The Walled 
Banks of the AuvSable." 

Admission to the Chasm is gained through 
" The Lodge," a picturesque building, octagonal in 
form, pagoda-like, unique and attractive. Within, 
will be found photographs, books and curios pertain- 
ing to the place. Before descending, note the queer 
eft'cct that the stained glass in the lodge windows 
gives to objects seen through them, where the blue 
makes frosty winter, and the red the most insuft'erable 
of summers of the same object. 

Entrance fee of 75 cents is charged. The boat 
ride is 50 cents additional, including carriage back to 
the hotel. Large parties are admitted at reduced 
rates. Permanent guests of the Lake View have free 
access. Guides are unnecessary, as once in the 
Chasm, the course is plain, guide boards and signs 




HORSKSHOE FALI-S. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. ^5 

pointing the way ai.d calling attention to notable 
places until Table Rock is reached where boats are 
entered for the remainder of the trip. The boats are 
in charge of experienced men, and although the ride is 
exciting, it is attended with no danger, and the most 
timid need not hesitate in going. 

Rainbow Falls, at the head of the Chasm, flings 
its mass of water from nearly 70 feet above into the 
gulf below. Horse Slioe Falls is nearly opposite 
the entrance. Note its suggestive shape from the 
lookout before descending the stairs. 

Pulpit Rock faces us as we approach the Elbow, 
which is the first turn below the entrance. Split Rock 
shows on the left at the farthest point visible as you 
turn around the elbow. The rock which stands at the 
left of the opening made by the splitting oiT of a 
large fallen mass is called the Elephant's Head 
and with the morning sun lighting up the massive 
front, the name does not seem inappropriate. Stop 
when you reach the end of the bridge that crosses 
here. Tlie Devil's Oven is in the wall which shuts 
off our farther advance on the right of the stream. 
Why "Oven" is not so clear, for if you climb the 
rough rocks and enter its 30 feet of depth, you will 
not find it the superheated place suggested, but rather 
the reverse. The same tropical imagination that con- 
ceived of this and some of the other names applied 
to places here, gave to the narrow passage-way at our 
feet the name of Hell Gate, and looking, one does 
not really wonder at the fancy. From Hell Gate, 
rising in a great sweep heavenward, away from the 
rushing water, is Jacob's Liadder. Across the 
bridge we go, around the rocky abutment toward the 
left, clinging perhaps to the iron railing which pre- 
vents our sliding into the water below ; beneath 
overhanging rocks, over the seething water, across 
the bridge which spans the Devil's Punch-Bowl — 



gflsi procr 



'0 fiOCKS^^ 




TD PORT KENT 3 M; 



LOOKOUT Po,|^7 
aAINBOW FAL 

TO HESyuXE>^0^ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



47 



pausing, perhaps, to 
glance into the green 
depths of the Fernery at 
our left — down across the 
worn rocks, then zig-zag 
up the side to a higher 
level to gaze into one of 
the most remarkable 
specimens of rock boring 
in the world, called Ja- 
cob's Well, showing 
where some vagrant 
stone, caught perhaps in 
an edd}^ when the stream 
ran at this high level and 
whirled about by the cur- 
rent ground its way down 
through the strata of soft 
rock, until worn out in 
vain beatings against its 
prison walls. Here a bridge crosses Mystic Gorge, 
to the Long Gallery beyond, which, descending, we 
come to Point of Rocks. Note, high up the sides 
of these rocks the segment of a large bowl similar 
to Jacob's Well. Backward, the rapids, seen from 
this point in the sunshine at noon, are very beauti- 
ful. Opposite is Hyde's Cave, named after a ven- 
turesome individual who, in 1S71, let himself down 
by a rope from the rocks above and was the first to 
reach its dual entrance. Below the bridge, which 
leads to Hyde's Cave, on the same side of the stream, 
is Bixby's Grotto. 

Smuggler's Pass is on the north shore, directly 
opposite the Grotto. You may follow along the ledge 
if 3X)U like and lose yourself from sight where, back 
from the river, this passage widens into quite a large 
chamber. More stairways are found as we proceed, 





THE SENTINEL 



TABLE ROCK. 



THE ANVIL. 



THE A1)1R()XDACKS. 4Q 

then comes the Post Office which although it has 
neither Post INIaster nor disting-uishmg name m the 
postal department, nevertheless does a large busi- 
ness, peculiarly its own, as the observant visitor will 
notice. No charge is made here for drop-letter or 
cards and many avail themselves of the privilege. 

Clinging close to the rocks protected by the iron rail- 
ing we pass along high up at this point, then through 
the Hanging" Garden and, descending, cross to 
Table Rock. From the upper point of Table Rock 
look backward through the Upper Flume. Sec 
Column Rocks at the farthest visible point on the 
left,, and if the sun be right, notice the AltarclotU 
hanging over the water at the right. Turning, the 
Anvil is before you, partially hidden perhaps, by the 
rustic canopy which has been built against it to afford 
shade for such as may care to take advantage of it 
when, for the two or three brief hours in the middle 
of the day, the sun pours its beams down into this open 
space. Back of the Anvil Cathedral Rocks rise a 
hundred feet above the level lioor, suggesting in their 
broken lines, some vast cathedral's ruined towers and 
aisles. " The Sentinel " stands guard at the outer 
corner of Cathedral Rocks. 

Through a cleft in the lower edge of Table Rock we 
descend and enter the large batteaux found waiting 
here for the passage through the Grand Flume and 
beyond. Do not fear, for these boats are strong and 
serviceable to withstand the hard knocks they get at 
times, and in charge of stalwart boatmen who \vi\\ 
guide us safely through the exciting passage below. 
The Grand Flume reaches from Table Rock down 
to the ' ' pool. " Here the water runs straight away, shut 
in by walls that rise perpendicularly up for more than 
a hundred feet, while the dip of the rock-strata on 
either side gives one the queer sensation of running 
down quite a steep hill. Here, at the narrowest place, 



50 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



the cliffs are scarcely ten feet apart and the sky above 

seems but a narrow ribbon of blue. The water seems 
to round up in the middle and 
actually to run on edge. Over 
this spot the main road crossed 
years ago and the place is 
spoken of now by the older in- 
habitants as " Hig^li Bridge,'* 
A story is told to the effect 
that when after a time the bridge 
was condemned and the plank 
taken off leaving only the naked 
log stringers stretched across, a 
horseman went over one dark 
and stormy night, unconscious 
of his danger at the time, al- 
though remembering afterward 
that as tie approached in the 
intense darkness, his horse had 
hesitated and when urged, 
moved forward in fear and 
trembling. 
Tlie Lower Gate- Way ends the Grand Flume 

and ushers us into the Pool. The Sentry Box is 

at the right as we emerge into the open space. On 

the left there is a larger crevasse 

in which, leaning, stands the Bro- 
ken Needle At the Pool, the 

river turns sharply to the left and 

leads downward over dancing rapids 

where we go until, rounding to 

the right, we enter quiet water 

once more and finally pass out 

into the Basin where, at the 

landing, carriages are taken to 

convey us back to the hotel. 
It is well to have passed 

through All Sable Chasm once in a life-time. Such 








THE ADIRONDACKS. $1 

scenes make a man realize the puny creature that 
he is, for — in the somewhat stalwart language of 
Will Carleton: 

" To appreciate Heaven well 

It is good for man to have some fifteen minutes of Hell." 

Photographs of the Chasm may be procured at the 
Lake A^iew House, where large books, showing the 
series, are on exhibition. 

Returning to the steamer, we see, three miles north 
of the landing at Port Kent, the sandy mouth of the 
Au Sable River. " Au Sable" means "a river of 
sand." A wooded depression in the ground above 
shows the course of the river. Across from this is the 
widest uninterrupted portion of the lake, the distance 
being nearly eleven miles. Measuring int(^ Mallett's 
Bay, the distance is nearly thirteen miles. 

Valcour Island is about six miles north of Port 
Kent, the steamer passing between it and the main 
land on the west. Here, Oct. ii, 1776, the first naval 
engagement of the Revolution occurred, between the 
British, under command of Captain Thomas Pringle, 
and the Americans under Benedict Arnold. The 
British command was victorious ; the American fleet 
destroyed. The wreck of the "Royal Savage" lies 
under water at the south end of Valcour Island. In 
this engagement, although defeated, Arnold acquitted 
himself in such a manner as to win the admiration of 
his enemies and the approval of his superior officers. 
Te was born in Norwich, Conn., Jan. 3d, 1741, and 
died in London, June 14, 1801. As a youth, turbulent ; 
as a soldier he was ambitious and bold to rashness. 
Jealous of his fellow offcers, the transition from dis- 
contented rebel to infamous traitor was easy. A 
brilliant commander — his fall was like that of Lucifer.* 

* For a full account of this engagement see " Lake George 
AND Lake Champlain." 



IHE ADIRONDACK^. ^3 

Hotel Gbaxaplain, the superb, is seen on the 
bold headland that puts out from the west shore just 
north of Valcour Island. It does not eonie upon you 
suddenly, as a revelation. You have seen it over the 
lake for miles baek on your course, before the steamer 
had touched at Burlington, perhaps, or from the car 
window as the reeling train swung around Trembleau 
Mountain nearly ten miles away and at intervals ever 
since as the road wound in and out along the shore. 
Now, as you approach, its magnificent proportions 
coine out in grand relief against the sky. 

" Commanding" is not inisajjplied here. The hotel 
stands on a height that breaks away abruptly in all 
directions for a space, then in gentler slope reaches 
the level of the lower shores north and south, the 
water on the east, and the valley toward the west 
where the trains of the D. & H. flash like gleaming 
shuttle through the vari-tinted web of cultivated fields 
and cross-line country roads. Long colonades ; broad 
piazzas conforming to the swelling contour of facing, 
east, south and west ; breezy porticos, and balconies 
hung along its sides or perched high up on tower and 
sharply sloping roof — give grace and lightness to the 
structure that rises above the tops of the trees crown- 
ing the rugged bluff. Distance gives to it the light- 
ness of a castle built of straws — the closer view reveals 
it solid and substantial as the most realistic could 
wish. 

At a moderate elevati(m it commands in an un- 
broken cn'cuit a panorama that for picturesque varie- 
ty and beauty is equalled perhaps nowhere in the 
country. Having no near mountain heights to dwarf 
its own strong setting, it looks out over land and 
water diversified and changeful. The surrounding- 
scenery is restful, rather than overpowering with great 
heights and depths. Right and left runs the lower 
plain with checker-board of field and woodland with 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 55 

network of roads, and quaint farm buildings gathered 
here and there in Httle knots that form hamlets 
and villages, while beyond are hills rising into the 
the ranges of the Adirondacks that stretch across, 
pointed at intervals with the grander mountain peaks. 
Towards the east a wide swath has been cut out 
through the green trees down to the water's edge, 
where busy life attends as the steamers come and go. 
Here gleams the beach of "The Singing Sands" cir- 
cling in a broad belt toward the south, between the 
restless water and the thick growing cedars. Toward 
the north are perpendicular cliffs that attain quite a 
height — the bluffs which undoubtedly gave to the 
point its name. They are cleft asunder at one place 
and made memorable by the tradition of the White 
Squaw and the Bloody Hand that left its marks on 
the walls and later as the place where smugglers 
successfully landed their stores free from suspicion 
because of its seeming inaccessibility. 

Valcour Island lies below like a garden bordered 
with its varying belt of shrubbery. Beyond dotted 
here and there with islands, stretches the broad lake 
to the shores of Vermont, the Green Mountains be- 
yond rising into the heights of Camel's Hump and 
Mount Mansfield. North and east are Grand Isle 
and the Great Back Bay ; at the north, Cumberland 
Head, the sweeping circle of Plattsburgh Bay, where 
occurred that splendid naval battle of 1814, — the last, 
as the battle of Valcour was the first, with the mother 
country — and nearer, the little island where sleep the 
dead of that eventful day. 

Within the hotel is found everything that apper- 
tains to a — oh, much and ill-used term — first class 
house. Every modern appliance tending to the com- 
lort of guests will be found here and that its manage- 
ment will be all which tiine and experience has shown 
to be the most acceptable to the travelled public, may 



56 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

be confidently expected, for that prince of hotel-keep- 
ers, O. D, Seave3% of the Ponce de Leon, St. Augus- 
tine, Florida, is at its head. 

Distance from New York is 308 miles ; fare, $8.05. 
To Montreal, 77 miles; fare, $2.71. Quick and con- 
venient train service will be maintained throughout 
the season north and south. Passengers leaving in the 
morning, arrive at Saranac Lake, Lake Placid a.:d 
the various hotels, reached by the Chateaugay Rail- 
road in time for dinner. 

Crab Island, some distance north of A'alcour, is 
the burial place of the common sailors and marines 
who fell in the battle of Plattsburgh. North of this, 
and projecting well out across the lake, is Cumber- 
land Head, from which the shore recedes toward the 
north and west, then comes back in a wide sweep, 
embracing Cumberland P)ay. 

The Battle of Plattsburgh took place here in 
1S14. Stripped of detail, the account of this decisive 
battle is as follows: On Sabbath morning, September 
nth, 1 8 14, the American land forces under General 
McComb, and the American fleet under Commodore 
Macdonough, were simultaneously attacked by the 
British land and water forces, under General Sir 
George Provost and Commodore Downie. The en- 
gagement resulted in a complete victory for the Ameri- 
cans, only a few small boats of the enemy effecting a 
successful retreat. The British also lost immense 
stores, which were abandoned in their retreat — which 
served them right for breaking the Sabbath. 

The Barracks, occupied by several companies of 
soldiers forming a regular U'. S. Army post, are near 
the lake shore, about a mile south of Plattsburgh. 
The old buildings were erected in 1838. The new 
barracks and officers' quarters are handsome and 
imposing structure standing in ample and well-kept 
grounds. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



57 



Plattsburgh. on the west shore of Cumberland 
P>ay, is a thriving vilhige of 8,000 inhabitants. It is 
of considerable commercial importance, being on the 
direct line between New York and Montreal, 311 
miles from the former and 74 miles from the latter. 
It is the nortxhern terminus of the Au Sable (Branch) 
Railroad, and from it the Chateaugay Railroad pene- 
trates the moimtains towards the west. Plattsburgh 

isthorough- 
lycosmopol- 
itan, with 
a n opinion 
to offer on 
every ques- 
tion of day, 
exerting 
no mean 
influence 
through its 
wide-awake 
newspapers 
the D a ily 
Telegram^ 
andthe Sen- 
tin el and 
Republican 
— the latter 
institutedin 

iSii, and notwithstanding its age, one of the most 
reliable and ably conducted democratic weeklies in 
the state. The town has numerous churches, high and 
graded schools. State Normal School, and one of the 
handsomest and best appointed opera houses in the 
state, outside the city of New York. 

Tlie First Settler in this region was Count 
Charles de Fredenburgh, a captain in the English 
army. The warrant conveying the land to him bore 




58 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

date June ii, 1769. The property reverting to the 
state after the Revolution, was granted in 1784, to 
Zephaniah Piatt and others, and incorporated into the 
town of Plattsburgh, April 4., 1785. A company was 
then organized which, in June of the same year, 
erected a mill a Fredenburgh Falls. The estimate of 
expense contained, among other items, the following : 
"For bread, $65 ;. for rum, $80." They used a great 
deal of bread in those days. In the year 1800 Platts- 
burgh possessed a population of less than 300. Within 
the county limits were owned at this time 58 slaves. 

Hotels. The Fouquet House at the depot, affords 
a convenient stopping place for parties arriving late 
or desiring to take an early train out. The Witherill 
House is near the post-office. It is elegant in its ap- 
pointments, it pictures and decorations displaying 
a high degree of artistic taste. The Cumberland 
stands at the corner of Trinity Square. 

Tlie Catbolic Summer Sebool of America 
has acquired necessary land on the lake between 
Plattsburgh and Bluff Point and will erect buildings 
suitable for its service. Lectures on scientific, historic 
and religious subjects are presented, the course ex- 
tending from the middle of July to the middle of Au- 
gust. Officers : Rev. Thomas J. Conaty, D.D,, Presi- 
dent, Worcester, Mass. ; Rev. Joseph H. McMahon, 
First Vice-President, 460 Madison Avenue, New York 
City : George Parsons Lathrop, LL.D., Second Vice- 
President, New London, Conn. ; Rev. Morgan M. 
Sheedy, Treasurer, Pittsburgh, Pa. ; Warren E. Mo- 
sher, A. M., Secretary, Youngstown, Ohio. Rev. 
Thomas McMillan, C.S.P. , Chairman Board of Studies, 
4:5 West 59th Street, New York City ; Miss E. A. 
McMahon, 223 Gold st., South Boston, Mass., is ^Sec- 
retary of the Women's Auxiliary Committee. 

Cumberland Head, near which occurred the 
naval battle of 1S14, is three miles from Plattsburgh. 
Contmuing northward the west shore is low but pic- 
turesque in its irregular line of deep bays and j^ro- 



I 



THE ADIRONDACK'S. 59 

jecting points, but of little interest historicall}^ except 
for the old fort that once stood on Point an Fer, built 
according- to the l)est authorities, in 1774. 

Rouse-s Point is 20 miles north of Plattsburgh. 
It is of considerable commercial interest, and the most 
important port of entry on the frontier. Five rail- 
roads centre here, viz : the D. & H. , leading to New 
York, the O. & L. C, to Ogdensburg and the Thou- 
sand Islands, the Grand Trunk to Montreal, the Port- 
land & Ogdensburg to the White Mountains, and the 
Central Vermont to Boston and the southeast. 

Fort Montgomery, a little way north of the 
long bridge, is an interesting ruin belonging to the 
United States. About a mile north of this a belt of 
woodland marks the boundary line between the 
United States and Canada. 

For Interior Resorts we will not take the gate- 
ways in their numerical order nor yet in order of their 
importance, but rather in groups that lead to the 
three great divisions: First, the Noi^thwest Lake 
Region, via Gateway No. i. Second, the Central 
Mountain district, via Gateways Nos. 2and 3. Third, 
the Lake Region of the Southwest, via Gateway No. 7. 



CHAPTER IV. 




Into the Northwest Lake Region via the 
Chateau(;av Railroad. 

GATEWAY No. I leads from Plattsbaroh into the 
Great Northwest Lake Region over the Chateau- 
gay Railroad, dividing the patronage of the central 

and westerly resorts with 
Gateway No. g. 

The first section of the 
railroad was built by the 
State from Plattsburgh to 
Clinton Prison, at Danne- 
mora, 17 miles. In 1880 
the road was extended to 
Lyon Mountain, 17 miles 
further; but the influx of 
Adirondack tourists was 
increasing, and the road that climbed an altitude of 
2,000 feet to reach the iron mines of Lyon Mountain, 
must go farther into the wilderness. So it was 
extended to Loon Lake. In 1888, 19 iTiiles were 
added, bringing it to Saranac Lake, distributing its 
passengers by various stage routes that branch from 
it to a score or more of summer hotels. By it tourists 
reach Chazy, Chateaugay, Loon, Rainbow, St. Regis, 
andLTpper and Lower Saranac Lakes, Ray Brook and 
Lake Placid, going to Cascade Lakes and Adirondack 
Lodge by stage. A Wagner sleeping car leaves 
Grand Central Station, New York, daily the year 
round, for Plattsburgh, where passengers are given 
time for breakfast before leaving for the interior. 
During the pleasure season, passengers can leave 
Grand Central Station 7:30 p. m. connecting with trains 



THE ADIRONDACKS. f)I 

leaving Plattsburgh 7:30 a. m., and reach the various 
resorts in time for dinner. Passengers can leave New 
York at 6 r. m. by Hudson River night boats and by 
the Adirondack special from Albany or Troy, reach 
Plattsburgh at 12:20 and Saranac Lake and Lake 
Placid early in the afternoon the following day. This 
enables passengers to take the stage ride from ths 
railroad to the various hotels in the cool of the day. 
Dravvdng-room cars are run on all trains. Sleeping 
and drawing-room car accommodations can be secured 
in advance at any of the stations. A Sunday train 
each way will run during July and August, and all 
trains run through to Lake Placid during that time 
without change. 

Dannemora is 17 miles from, and 1,300 feet above 
Plattsburgh. Clinton prison is situated here, and af- 
fords a quiet home for a number of people of leisure, 
who pass their time in meditation, making clothing, 
and other congenial pursuits. From Dannemora, the 
road swings westerly, around the south side of John- 
son Mountain, then north, near the west shore of 
Chazy Lake, then, west and southerly to the mines 
at Lyon INIountain, running 17 miles to reach a point 
nine miles distant in a straight line, 

Cliazy Lake is nearly four miles long and a mile 
wide, Chazy Lake House has an advertised capacity 
for 50 to 60 guests. It stands near the north end of 
the lake, and may be reached by rowboat from Chazy 
Station or by carriage from Dannemora. 

Ijyon Mountain was until recently the centre of 
extensive mining operations of the Chateaugay Ore 
and Iron Company. In 187S it contained only a few 
scattered houses; in 1893 it had a hotel, stores, and 
churches, with about 2,000 inhabitants. The depres- 
sion in the iron trade rendered mining unprofitable, 
and the work stopped — to remain so, probably, until 
Wilson and McKinley shall lie down together and the 



62 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



HATtAO&^Y•lA^\^ 



demand for iron become once more a healthy one. 
At present the houses are nearly all deserted, the 
wmdows boarded up and the once busy town silent. 
The iron industry there is dead except where, at the 
base of the mountain, a small force is engaged in the 
reduction of the rich tailings of the older works by a 
patent process yet in the experimental stage. A part 
of a day can be spent here profitably inspecting the 
mines, crushers, separators, etc. , although ordinarily 
it is not a pleasure seeker's resort. 

Upper Cliateaugay Lake is about four miles 
in length and one broad. It empties at the north into 
the Lower Lake, which 
is somewhat smaller 
than the upper. It is 
picturesque with sur- 
rounding mountains 
and rugged shores. It 
is reached by stage from 
Lyon Mountain, 4miles, 
and from Chateaugay 
Station on the O. & L. 
C. R. R. by an 8-mile 
stage ride and by con- 
necting boat through 
the lower lake and nar- 
rows. It has a number 
of suminer hotels and 
cottage-camps on its 
shores. The smaller game birds and water fowl are 
here in their season, squirrels and foxes abound, and 
deer and bear are not uncommon additions to the list 
of the killed. A Small Steamboat runs through 
the lower and upper lakes, landing at all camps 
and hotels. Fare 50 cents. An excursion down the 
winding stream that connects the two lakes brings to 
view at intervals a section of country that has been 
long settled. 




'i'llE ADIRONDACKS. 63 

Ralpll^s is on the east shore (see map) 3^ miles 
from Lyon Mountain (stage fare 50 cents). Capacity 
for about 100 guests. Open from June 15th to 
October. For rates see api^endix. J. W. Hutton, 
proprietor. This house is specially attractive with an 
air of neatness that extends from office to kitchen. 
The beds are of the best and the table equaled by 




few of the most famous. There is a telegraph office 
here and two mails daily. It is one of the places 
where you realize that there is consideration for you 
not limited by the length of your purse, where, with a 
degree of comfort not often met with, 3X)u are sur- 
rounded by a primitive environment that goes to 
make the ideal summer's outing. Here will be found 
tennis, billiards and bowling for lovers of such amuse- 
ments, and boats, guides and camp supplies for sports- 
man and fisherman. The proprietor is thorough and 
efficient, and during the season may be found, a 
genial boniface, always at his post. 



64 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Tlie Indian Point House is on the west side of 
the lake near its south end ; capacity about 40 guests. 
R. M. Shutts, proprietor. Post-office address, Merrill's, 
N. Y. See appendix for rates. The accommodations 
are in a group of buildings that have grown to meet 
the increasing demand of visitors, and the equipment 
consists of some of the best beds made and furniture 




INDIAN POINT HOUSE. 



comforta,ble enough for all reasonable desires. It is 
strictly a temperance house, no liquor being sold 
on the premises. The steamboat runs regularly to 
connect with the stage for railroad at Lyon Mountain. 
Fare to railroad, $1. Mr. Shutts is a veteran hunter 
and fisherman, and his house is admirably located 
for lovers of wildwood sports. Some of the best 
fishing grounds of the lake are close by the house. 
At the back is a dense forest that reaches out into the 
wild section, through which trails run to smaller 
sheets of water that are little known except to the 
local hunter and fisherman. All requisites for sport 
are supplied when Avanted. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 65 

The Merrill House. Capacity about 60. Oliver 
Young, proprietor. ^ Post office (Merrill's) and tele- 
graph office in the house. Stage to trains at Lyon 
Mountain (4 miles), 50 cents. This house is long 
established and highly approved. It is quaint, home- 
like and attractive in many respects. Its location is 
convenient (see map) for lake and river hunting or 
fishing alike. The house stands on rising ground 
about 60 feet back from the lake where the little 
steamer lands on regular trips. While it has the 
ordinary hunting facilities, Merrill's is a resort for all 
kinds of weather because of its position near the out- 
let which gives choice of lake or river tishing according 
to the time or season. Boats cost to hire 50 cents per 
day, $3 per week; boats and guides from $2.50 to $3 
per day. For prices of board see appendix. 

The Chat eangay, formerly Hotel Interlaken, is 
near the Merrill House. Capacity 75. Open July istto 
October 15th. Charles W. Backus, proprietor. P.O. 
Merrill's. Fare to Lyon IMountain (4 miles), 50 cents. 

liOwer Chatea^gay Lake is about 2^ miles 
in length, and less than a mile in width, with nice 
shores and sloping hills on either side. It is reached 
from the Upper Lake by a winding stream about two 
miles in length, through which the little steamer runs, 
affording a pleasant excursion in its round to the dif- 
ferent landings. 

The Banner House, on the east side near the 
north end of the lake, will provide for 75 guests in 
house and adjoining cottages. The place is suggestive 
of quiet comfort and vacation rest. J. S. Kirby, pro- 
prietor. Post Office Chateaugay Lake. Stage to 
Chateaugay Station 50 cents. By boat and stage to 
Lyon Mountain $1 . For rates of board see appendix. 



66 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Cliateaug;ay (gateway No. i6, station on the O. 
& L. C. R. R. 45 miles west of Rouse's Point), is 8 
miles north of Lower Chateaugay Lake on the river 
of the same name, which continues northward to the 
St. Lawrence. It is a somewhat thriving country 
village of about 700 population, with two hotels, 
stores, etc. 

Cliateaugay Cbasm, ly^ miles north of the 
station, rivals Au Sable Chasm in many respects, and 
deserves to rank among the wonders of the Adiron- 
dack region. It is a half mile in length, walled in by 
perpendicular cliffs, through which the river runs, 
descending in its first leap a distance of 50 feet; 
thence by numerous broken steps, throughout its en- 
tire length. It is rendered accessible to the public by 
means of stairways, galleries, etc. The Cliasxn 
House, standing at the entrance, is much resorted 
to by local picnic parties and by wonder-seekers from 

a distance. 

***** * 

Returning to Lyon Mountain we swing around 
its west si^ie, getting a beautiful and extended view 
of Chateaugay Lake at one point where the woods 
have been cut away for that purpose. Then come 
forge and coal-kilns, beyond which, winding west and 
south, the road penetrates a wild and interesting sec- 
tion of wilderness, until Loon Lake is reached. 

liOon Lake extends south from the station, and is 
about two and a half miles long. It is an extremely 
pretty sheet, wnth high banks and irregular shores, 
although marred somewhat in its beauty by the 
work of the lumberman and of forest fires. Tlie 
LiOon Lake House stands on the high ridge at 
its south end which, like the rim of some wide-movithed 
volcano, holds the lake within its circling walls, while 
beyond, the land drops rapidly down into the deep 
valley of the Saranac. The house is roomy, well fur- 



THE ADIROXDACKS 67 

nished, and, together with the cottages, has capacity 
for about 325 guests. F. W. Chase, proprietor. Post 
Office, Loon Lake. Stages meet all trains at Loon 
Lake Station ; fare 75 cents. Open June to October. 
At Loon Lake Station the A. & St. L. Railroad 
from Malone joins the Chateaugay, the two running 
parallel for some distance south, then gradually draw- 
ing apart as Rainbow Lake is approached, the Chateau- 
gay running direct to Bloomingdale, Saranac Lake, 
and Lake Placid, the A. & St. L. swinging westerly 
to Rainbow Lake, Paul Smith's (station). Lake Clear, 
S?.ranac Inn, Tupper Lake and Childwold, thence 
southerly through the great Western Lake Region. 

Rainbow Lake is noted fishing ground and claims 
the proud distinction of yielding the largest lake trout 
on record, one having a weight of 52 pounds. Numer- 
ous small ponds in this vicinity yield excellent fishing 
wmile Wardner Pond (which comes close up to Rain- 
bow Inn) with adjacent waters, have been stocked 
with trout fry, affording rare sport and sometimes as- 
tonishing results, to even the unpracticed fisherman. 

Rainbow Inn will provide for 50 guests. James 
M. Wardner, proprietor. Post Office ("Rainbow") 
and telegraph ofhce in the house. Telephone con- 
nection with Paul Smith's, Saranac Lake, Lake Placid, 
etc. Open all the year. Station on the A. & St. L. 
Railroad about 50 rods from the house, to which a 
plank walk leads. Dormer windows have been added 
since the accompanying cut was made, improving the 
appearance as well as ventilation of the house. Sta- 
tion on the Chateaugay three miles east, to which 
special conveyance runs if notice be sent in advance. 
Passengers leaving New York City at 7 p m., reach 
Rainbow, via the A. & St. L. in time for breakfast. 
The house is finished in a most substantial manner 
witn native woods, and arranged to be warmed com- 



THE ADIRONDOCKS. 5g 

fortably throughout in case of a sudden lowerine of 
the temperature, such as may be expected here bv 
sh'oodn J ' ThM '" ^7'^ ^"^^^^ who'ta'rries'ria^t^ 
insuresi* .nnnl 7f ^^'"^ connected with the house 
ful The nlfo^ l^ ^^""^ products, fresh and health- 
atmoHnn.? ?i.^f ""^"^ ^^^^ the usual number of 
^vnf .T u'^^'^^u^'"''^^^ «^' fisherman, as might be 
Wr f ''^^f ^ ^J"^ proprietor himself is an arden? 
lover of sport and combines with hearty good-fellow 
ship a knowledge of the habits and haunts of vM 
^ame possessed by but few. He is also cord aUyec^ 

meef .;Solu^n?.""^'''"!;^"^^ ^^ ^^ efficient '^hdp- 
rtfxiderm?sT in^^""^"^^^^ accomplishments that of 
worV h.f fi^ ^ ^'"'^^ practical evidence of her 

Tp^^^mtns^LTfhlTrr ^^^^^^ ^' '^' ^^^^^ ^^^ -^-^ 
n^Jf"'''^^''? ^^^® i^l^^^ingdale station, on the 
Pllttsbuf^h^ .^i>?^^^^ ^^^^^"t- ^^ niilesfrom 

mf Ind # r a httle hamlet with Methodist, Episco- 
pal andR. C. Churches, several stores, express and 
telegraph offices. The hotel is the C;ystal Sprint 
?rrr?eto?s^' r "''• '^' r^^' -^^^^^^ ^ S^arCd^ 
imThrS^:tion:^7oT;tr ^^^^"^' ^^ ^^^^^- '^^ P-i 

. ^f^/^^^^*^'s is on lower St. Regis Lake 7 miles 
west of Bloomingdale Station on the Chateaugay anl 

RalltoLf Tc;f^"' ^"^^'^'^ ^^^^^^^ «^ the A.f k. i 
Railroad. (Stage 75 cents ; for private conveyance 

imYth's &2TV'' telegraph). Capacity 500. 'Pau! 
bmitji s Hotel Company, proprietors. P. O Paul 

smi?ho..^r-^ ?r'^ ^^^^^ h^^^^ i^ ^861 and buUt a 
small house for the accommodation of sportsmen It 
soon became a favorite fishing and huntino- resort "and 
grew rapidly in bulk and popularity. It"? stfu much 

Parior ind sF"''""^^ '''''' ^' ^ fashionable report 



70 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Lower St. Regis Lake is about two miles long- 
by one broad, and discharges west through the mid- 
dle branch of the St. Regis River. It is about i , 600 
feet above tide. The only elevation of note in this 
section is St. Regis Mountain, 1,265 feet above 
the lake. From its summit a beautiful view of the 
lake district is obtainable, showing over fifty different 
bodies of water. 

North of Paul Smith's is a territory, not grand but 
remaining rough and wild, albeit attempts have been 
made for years to subject it to civilization and culti- 
vation. Many parts are noted for game, although not 
so well known to the great public as other sections 
that are, perhaps, dominated by more enterprise than 
this. It is reached past Paul Smith's or from the 
northern gateways 

Malone (Gateway 15) is 57 miles west of Rouse's 
Point. It is the County seat of Franklin County, a 
flourishing, wide-awake village and one of the im- 
portant towns of the State. Hotel Flanagan is the 
leading house, and a good one. Rates $2 to $3 per 
day. Here the A. & St. L. Railroad connects with 
road into Canada which, branching after crossing the 
St. Lawrence, gives unbroken tram service to Ottawa 
and Montreal. South, the road pierces the wildest 
section of the west lake region through which it 
winds to its junction with the N. Y. Central at Herki- 
mer. 

Mountain View (State dam of old) is 13 miles 
south of jNIalone. Tlie Mountain View House 
is near the station ; capacity So. Rates $2. 50 to $3 
per day; $10. to $17 per week. Open all the year. R. 
G. Low, proprietor. P. O., Mountain View. 

Indian Lake is one-third of a mile north, and out- 
lets into the river above the State dam. From it a 
trail leads north to the road running east to Ragged. 
Lake (4% miles long, including the " Figure Eight "). 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 7I 

The two are connected by a short stream and one- 
third mile carry. The name of each is descriptive 
enough. In^raliani Pond is about I'jy^ miles west 
of the head of Ragged Lake. Across from the shore 
opposite the Ragged Lake House, a trail leads east i 
mile to Mountain Pond ; thence northeast 4 miles to 
the outlet of Chateaugay Lake. Ladd's, capacity 
25. Rates $1. 50 to $2. 50 per day ; $7 to $12 per week ; 
open all the year. R. A. Ladd, proprietor. Post 
Office, Duane. This is in a region quite noted for 
game, and the proprietor in his modest way offers at- 
tractive accommodations and wholesome fare at 
a moderate price. It is 16 miles south of Malone, 8 
miles from the railroad station, (A. & St. L. R. R. at 
Mountain View), and 7 miles north of A. R. Fuller's 
noted place at Meacham Lake. The house is compar- 
atively new^ having been built in 1891, on the site of 
the old house, destroyed by fire. It has a telegraph 
and post office in the house. This was, of old, quite 
noted hunting ground ; it has not lost its popularity of 
late, for the increase of deer under existing laws is no- 
ticeable here as in many other portions of the Adiron- 
dacks, and the fashionable crowds have not come to 
crowd out those who delight in the chase. Guides 
can be engaged with boats and camp supplies if re- 
quired, to which end the proprietor invites correspond- 
ence. Hotel Ayers is on the north end of Lake 
Duane, 11 miles south of Malone. Capacity 100. 
Rates $3 to $4 per day; $12 to $21 per week. Open 
May ist to November. W. J. Ayers & Son, pro- 
prietors. P. O., Duane, N. Y. ■ Meacliain Lake 
House is 25 miles from Malone, and 12 miles from Paul 
Smith's Station on the N. A. Railroad. Will accom- 
modate 75. Rates, $10 to $17.50 per week; $2 to $3 
per day. A. R. Fuller, proprietor. Meacham Lake 
is about 2l.^ miles long. Its outlet is the east branch 
of the St Regis River. 



72 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Saranac Lake (village) is 73 miles from Platts- 
burgh, a picturesque town of about 1,000 native in- 
habitants, lying low in the valley ; busy and full ot 
enterprise. Around it are protecting hills, and far- 
ther back the mountains. Between the hills run val- 
leys from north, east and south, uniting here so that 
it is approched by level roads, winding through the 
lowlands, from either side. It shows a picturesque 
blending of the primitive forms of old times with the 
swell structures of prosperous later days, since it went 
forth that here was the health centre of the wilder- 
ness. It has four churches, a graded school, water 
supply for street and dwellings, stores and hotels, 
and telegraphic and telephonic communications with 
summer hotels of the lake region and the outer world. 

This has excellent railroad service by both the Cha- 
teaugay and A. & St. L. railroads. Trains leaving in 
the morning reach New York early in the evening. 
Afternoon trains connect at Plattsburgh with sleeper 
for New York. By the A. & St. L. Railroad is has 
through train service to and from New York via the 
west side of the wilderness. Stages run to and from 
the various hotels of Saranac Lake on arrival and de- 
parture of all trains. 

The Adirondack Sanitarium is a practical 
application of the good to be had here. It is a mile 
below (north of) the village, on a bluff, commanding a 
grand mountain view toward the north and east» 
and well protected from the prevailing western wind. 
Dr. Alfred L. Loomis, of New York, is exainining 
physician. The institution is under the immediate 
supervision of Dr. E. L. Trudeau, assisted by Dr. C. 
T. Wicker. Applicants must be examined either by 
Dr. Loomis, in New York, or Dr. Trudeau, at Sara- 
nac Lake. It is not intended as an asylum for hope- 
less cases ; but to put within reach of sufferers from 
incipient pulmonary complaints, whose means are. 



TZlS ADIRONDACKS. 73 

limited, the advantage to be derived from the Adiron- 
dacks climate, a simple, out-of-doors life, and good 
hygienic surroundings, with suitable medical treat- 
ment. There is a handsome central building, con- 
taining dining-room, offices, etc., and outlaying cot- 
tages, accommodating two to four patients each. The 
Sanitarium accommodates abcmt sixty patients. A 
charge of $5.00 per week is made for each. This is be 
low actual coat pro rata, but the deficiency is made up 
by annual subscriptions. Dr. Trudeau's experience has 
made him a strong advocate of the systematic open- 
air treatment of consumptives which is carried out at 
the institution in most cases. A characteristic scene 
in mid-winter is that of a dozen or more patients 
swathed in wrappers of wool and fur, ranged, sardine- 
like, side by side on the piazza in comfortable steamer 
chairs, chatting or reading, or engaged in such light 
occupation as may be possible with thickly gloved 
fingers ; often remaining out in what may be called 
bad weather even, from nine o'clock in the morning 
until sun-set, except during the intervals taken for 
dinner. Others drive, mufiied in furs, or where 
strength permits — thickly clad and well protected 
from the cold — indulge in long tramps through the 
woods or over the hills on snow shoes. 

Tlie Hotels at the village are good and are supple 
mented by numerous private boarding houses open 
to meet every extraordinary demand. " Linwood 
Cottage," Frank A. Mantz, manager, is on the main 
street. Capacity 25. Rates, $10 to $15 per week. 
Open all the year. " Riverside Inn," will accommo- 
date 75. Rates, $3 per day ; $i-|. to $21 per week. 
This house has electric light and steam heat. A free 
carriage runs to trains. _ Open all th^^ year. Wallace 
JMurray, proprietor. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 75 

Tlie Berkeley is the leading hotel of the village 
and is open the year round. Streeter & Denison, 
proprietors. It has been noted for some years for its 
table and as a specially neat place, much too small to 
accommodate its would-be guests. Now, with in- 
creased capacity and added conveniences it is a very 
desirable place. It has steam heat and open fireplaces 
both — a most satisfactory combination, as it insures 
warmth with ventilation — electric bells, baths and 
other modern improvements. It has white, unpapered 
walls and native wood floors covered with large rugs 
— all admitting of frequent cleaning and airing. A 
free carriage runs to the stations to meet all trains. 
The proprietors, while both young men, are energetic 
and capable, and deserving of the success which has 
come to them. Accommodations are afforded here 
for about a hundred guests. For rates see appendix. 

Fowler's Livery with office near the Berkeley is 
one of the best equipped stables in the Adirondacks ; 
furnishing horses and carriages to meet every require- 
ment. Carriages meet all trains or may be summoned 
for special needs by mail or telegraph by addressing 
as above. 

Lake Flower, a new name among Adirondack 
lakes, 13 the once unhandsome sheet of water south of 
the village, now beautified by the rernoval of the dead 
timber which filled it — threatening health and a sorrow 
to the eye — and with clean shores and a clear surface 
a most charming addition to the attractions of this 
much favored town. Boats can be had here where 
boating is a pleasure and fishing yields a good return 
Of course the name is for the governor whose facile 
pen contributed so much to the removal of the logs. 

Edgewood Inn, Wm. L. Davids, proprietor, is 
about a mile west of the village on high land, show 
mg glimpses of the lake that lies but a little distance 
farther at the west and counts among its attractions 



THE ADIKONDACKS. 77 

thick forest of pine and balsam at its rear. In a region 
of excellent hotels it is not easy to find distinctive 
good, but the experience of the proprietor — a gradu- 
ate of the Astor House, New York — as manager at 
the Cascade House and later as proprietor here, is an 
assurance of entertainment satisfactory in every way. 
Accommodations are afforded here for about 75 guests. 
Boats, guides and fishing equipments can be secured 
of the proprietor. P. O, address, Saranac Lake. For 
rates of board see appendix. 

Miller's Saranac Xiake House, which stood on 
the shore of the lake a short distance beyond Edge- 
wood Inn, was burnt to the ground April 24. It stood 
on the ground v/here Martin's famous old house 
which was the first among famous Adirondack hotels, 
was built in 1859. At present it is uncertain whether 
it will be rebuilt or not. 

The Algonquin is on high ground a half mile 
south of Edgewood Inn. John Harding, proprietor. 
Mr. Harding was schooled in Paul Smith's famous 
hostelry and at one time was associate manager of 
Hotel Ampersand. Stages connect with all trains, 
fare 50 cents. The house has modern conveniences, 
telegraph and post-office, and the grounds spacious, 
having 3^' of a mile of lake front. The view is com- 
prehensive, including the greater extent of the lake 
and its islands. For rates see appendix. 

Hotel Del Monte is about a mile from the village 
of Saranac Lake, where the north road approaching 
Hotel Ampersand crosses Colby stream. J. E. & W. 
H. Meagher, managers. The house is attractive in 
appearance and surroundings and modern in its ap- 
pointments, with extensive piazzas and large, well- 
lighted rooms. In the vicinity are forests of pine, 
spruce, hemlock, balsam and cedar, through which 
walks are laid out. Picturesque bits are found at inter- 
vals along up the stream which is the outlet of Lake 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 79 

Colby, while down stream but a little way after its 
plunge over the dam it widens out into beautiful Sara- 
nac Lake. A well appointed livery furnishes the 
necessary facilities to those who would ride or drive, 
while porters and coaches attend at the arrival of all 
trains. Transfer 50 cents. 

A new house, under a new management, the Del 
Monte has gained a very flattering reputation, 
which the proprietors promise to add to if good in- 
tentions and well-directed effort can win such a result. 
The Del Monte will be kept open for winter as well as 
summer boarders. For rates see appendix 

Hotel Ampersand and cottages stand at the ex- 
treme northerly end of lower Saranac Lake, about 
ji^ miles east of the village. For transient rates see 
appendix. For special rates address the Saranac 
Lake Hotel Company, Ampersand, N. Y., Eaton & 
Young, managers. The Ampersand was built by the 
Saranac Lake Hotel Company. It is roomy, ramb- 
ling and artistic — full of unsuspected corners and 
pleasant surprises. The main office is a large room 
with two large fireplaces. It opens on one side into 
the spacious dining hall, smoking room and gentle- 
men's reading and writing room, and on the other 
into a reception room, ladies' billiard, reading and 
writmg rooms and parlor. The hotel contains 146 bed- 
rooms, 68 of which have fireplaces. An elevator 
makes all floors almost equally desirable. It is heated 
throughout with steam and lighted with gas. Public 
and private bath-rooms are on every floor. The pi- 
azzas are broad, extending along the entire front and 
sides of the house. The Post-office "Ampersand" 
and telegraph, telephone, and general store are in the 
hotel. A tennis court, base-ball field, walks and 
drives afford opportunity for outdoor sports for every- 
one. Archery and rowing and sailing on the lake are 
standard amusements. The modern canoe with its 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 8v 

dainty sails and shininor deck is a familiar sight here, 
although not common in the Adirondacks. Bathing 
in the lake also is rather popular and encouraged by- 
special facilities offered by the house. 

In choosing a name for the hotel, "Ampersand" 
was deemed fitting and appropriate from the vicinage 
of the shapely mountain that looms up beyond the 
lake at the south, and at whose base nestles a pretty 
pond bearing the same name, with its outlet in a 
little stream that finds its devious way at last into 
Raqnette River. It is picturesque in its commanding 
position on a slight eminence, surrounded by pines, 
hemlocks and balsams, with white birches gleaming 
here and there among their more sombre neighbors. 
The accompanying cuts show glimpses of the hotel 
and a view of the lake but do neither justice. 

C. M. Eaton and W. G. Young, the managers, rep- 
resent energy and enterprise and a knowledge of the 
minutia of hotel service that ensures good manage- 
ment and smooth working throughout. At the be- 
ginning, the Ampersand took position as a popular 
favorite. With a generous freedom of management 
not often equalled it has continued so. It is a house 
about which little can be found to criticize. 

Lower Saranac Lake is a little less than five 
miles long by one and a quarter wide. It is longest 
from Ampersand in a south-westeriy course to the 
inlet. Symmetrical as a whole, it is separated into 
several natural divisions by outspreading peninsulas 
and chain-like groups of islands ; there being of the 
latter (counting as such several huge rocks) one for 
every week in the year. There are a number of fine 
private cottages on its shores and camps, varying from 
the expensive rustic countrv place to the rude but 
comfortable log and bark affair while on its islands, 
during the summer the white tent and occasional bough 
house are to be found, filled with their jollv invalids 
or sportsmen, bound for a good time generally. 



82 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The outlet is about midway of the lake, three miles 
southeast of its head, receiving the flow of Cold, 
Rogers, and Ray, brooks on the right and the waters 
of Lonesome -Pond on the left and enlarges to form 
Miller Pond, then contracting turns gradually and 
passes through the village of Saranac Lake. 

Tlie Inlet is a winding, lily-flecked stream about 
two miles long, bringing the water from Round Lake. 
At the Rapids, midway between the lakes, the wdter 
comes down with a swish and a curl at the bottom. 
With high water the rapids may be run in coming 
down but ordinarily it is safest to alight and walk 
along the plank at the side while the guide pilots the 
boat along the channel. 

Middle Saranac Lake, or Round Lake as it is 
commonly called, is about two and one-half miles in 
diameter, and as its name implies, is nearly round. 
It contains several very pretty rocky islands. The 
shores are bold, and, late in the season, brilliant in 
their Autumn dress. It has the reputation of being 
the roughest water in the Adirondacks, and a " Camp 
of Refuge" is near the outlet for shelter of wind-bound 
or shipwrecked mariners. Between two great rocks 
at the west we enter the slow strearn that comes from 
the Upper Lake. 

Tlie Saranac Club House (formerly Bartlett's) 
is at the foot of a short carry a half mile above 
Round Lake. This place is reached in summer gen- 
erally by water, although possible to reach it by a 
road through the woods on the east side. It is owned 
by a company known as the "Saranac Club" with 
a charter membership of 20. The stated objects of 
the club are, primarily, the health, happiness and 
pleasure of its members, but while the accommoda- 
:ions of the house will be largely required for the club 
it will be kept open as a hotel and the public accom- 
modated to such an extent as may be without incon- 
venience to club members. 



\ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



83 



Bartlett Carry extends from the club house, 
something less than a half mile, into the Upper Sara- 

nac. Boat and duffle 
(in the Adirondacks 
everything in the way 
of baggage is "dufBe") 
are carried over on a 
cart, for which the em- 
ployer pays 50 cents. 
Upper Saranac 
Lake is 1,577 feet 
above tide. It is eight 
miles long, measuring 
north and south and 
nearly two miles wide 
at its broadest. 1 1 
discharges toward the 
east from its south end, 
making a rapid de- 
scent of about 35 feet 
in 100 rods, to Bart- 
lett' s. It contains a 
number of islands; 
those at the south' be- 
ing rounded or level; 
those at the north, 
bold and rocky. The 
shores partake of the 
nature of the islands ; 
are thickly wooded, 
and rise into hills, 
which can hardly lay 
claim to the title of 
mountains, but which 
are picturesque and 
attractive. In the dis- 
tance, at the north, is 




MAP OF UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 

(Surveyed by Dr. S. B. Ward.) 



•r^u^ 





i^ 



^■^ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 85 

St. Regis Mountains; away at the east, Whiteface; 
toward the southwest, Ampersand and Seward. Of 
old the route to this lake was generally by way of 
the Lower Sc^ranac as above described, and it still 
remains a delightful way, but with the opening of the 
A. & St. L. Railroad the mass of visitors come to 
Saranac Inn Station, thence by stage to the head of 
the lake, and by steamer to the various points on its 
shores. 

Sa>ranac Inn is at the head (north end) of Upper 
Saranac Lake. It will accommodate 125 guests. 
D. W. Riddle, manager. P. O. Saranac Inn, 
N. Y. A loop of the telegraph extends to this point 
with olifice in the hotel. x\ general supply store fur- 
nishes all the necessaries for camp or sport. Guides 
can be engaged th'^ough the management. The Inn 
is two miles from Saranac Inn Station. Stage fare 50 
cents. The road runs through a picturesque section 
of the woods, which here in places exist in their 
primeval condition. All the Avay — except in extremely 
wet weather — the road is in good condition and the 
ride a delightful one. By water from Saranac Inn to 
Miller's is 20 miles; to Paul Smith's 10,'^ miles. 

The house stands on a point extending out into the 
lake from the north, and commands a broad expanse 
vof water with distant mountains, the view equalled 
nowhere in the Adirondacks, except from the high 
land between Mirror Lake and Lake Placid. The 
soil is dry and porous, the peninsula on which the 
house stands, level, and the forest which forms a 
pleasant feature in its surroundings, are grovelike, 
resembling a cultivated park in their shadowy depths. 
Under its present management the Inn has gained the 
highest praise. The table is exceptionally nice. 

This section is specially attractive to the fisherman, 
because of the multitude of small ponds and streams 
adiacent, there being within a circuit of three mile& 



86 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



over thirty that are recognized as among the best 
trout yielding waters of the Adirondacks. For obvious 
reasons, the hunter with Hmited time, will find this 
available ground. It is easily reached. An excellent 
house renders the isolated position comfortable. It 
is well out in that wilderness where, north, west and 
south, streams and ponds cover the tract like crystal 
beads on a net-work of silver. Into this labyrinth 
come the deer who delight in still water and the ten- 
der food grow- 
ing at its edge. 
With them it 
is a favor- 
ite feeding 
ground and 
they find none 
better even in 
the far west. 
This house 
is a favorite 
with Presi- 
dent and Mrs. 
Cleveland, 
an d h ead- 
quarters dur- 
ing their visit 
to the woods. 

Dr. S. B. Ward, of Albany, is a regular visitor ; and 
to him the publisher is indebted for a copy of the map 
incorporated in the large map of the wilderness and 
shown on page 83. Dr. Ward's camp on Markham 
Point is notably picturesque and comfortable. A 
pretty little church on the. hill back of the hotel, erected 
in 1885, is open for service during the summer. A 
number of very pretty private camps are on the bay 
•west of the house, and at various points south. 

Steamers " Saranac " and " Loon" run (connect- 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 87 

ing with trains) from Saranac Inn to Wawbeek, In- 
dian Carry and Saranac Club dock (Bartlett's) at the 
outlet. 

Hotel Wa"wbeek is on the west side of the Upper 
Saranac near its south end. Capacity about 200. 
By stage and boat from Saranac Inn Station, $1.25. 
Harlow H. Chandler, manager. Post Office address, 
Wawbeek, N. Y. " Wawbeek" is Indian for big rock, 
suggested by the huge bowlder lying on the hillside 
there. Hiawatha 

" Sees the masses of the wawbeek lying still in every valley," 

but the weary traveler who sees this Wawbeek finds 
something more satisfying than cold stone to look 
upon. It is of comiuanding proportions, unique in 
design and pleasing in finish. The public apartments 
are attractive, cosy and ample for all occasions. It 
has telegraph office in the house, electric bells, public 
and private baths, etc. The sleeping rooms are spa- 
cious and with plenty of large windows, looking three 
ways and still finding the lake. Its shape is that of a 
Greek cross with the office centrally placed. It is 
nearly surrounded by verandas, presenting sunny 
nooks or cooling shade, according as conditions favor 
or inclination suggests. An immense fire-place in the 
office and smaller ones in other public rooms and in a 
number of the sleeping rooms, insure means of warmth 
in time of frost. Pure water is there, brought into 
the house from a distant spring. Ventilation and per- 
fect drainage gives the best of sanitary conditions. 
A feature of the Wawbeek, much affected by believers 
in the efficacy of out-of-door air, is found in a number 
of commodious tents with carpeted floors and all the 
etceteras of a well furnished bedroom, which will be 
assigned to those who may prefer tent life to the con- 
ventional walls of the hotel. The point is a com^ 
manding one, affording a view which, for diversity 






3: 







THE ADIRONDACKS. 89 

and extent, is not equalled on any other lake west of 
Lake Placid. The table supplies are shipped from 
New York daily throughout the season. The cuisine is 
first class, the service exceptionally nice. Many visi- 
tors coming to see have been so well pleased that 
their day extended into the season and the coming 
season will find them there again. For terms see ap- 
pendix or address the manager at Wawbeek. 

Amusements are varied, Boating, fishing and hunt- 
ing are, of course, the principal ones here, and for 
such all accessories can be had of the house, includmg 
guides and camp outfit. A new naptha launch has 
been added to the fleet for the convenience of guests 
in making special trips about the lake. 

Mr. Chandler, who assumed the management of the 
Wawbeek in 1893, has been associated in the manage- 
mont of some of the most noted hotels of the country, 
including the Windsor, Montreal ; the Ocean House, 
Newport ; the Everett, New York, and Laurel-in- 
the-Pines, at Lakewood, N. J. — and yet his reputa- 
tion as an entertainer is not limited to that of land- 
lord alone, if the musical and dramatic critics are to 
be believed. 

Joliuson Island Chapel is about a mile from 
the Wawbeek in a south-easterly direction. Services 
are held here on the Sabbath during the summer. It 
is in charge of Rev. R. G. McCarthy, " The Missionary 
of the Adirondacks," n-ho although a Presbyterian, 
throws open the chapel doors and desk to all denomnia- 
tions, endeavoring when possible to have the services 
Conducted by distinguished visiting clergymen. 

Rustic Lodge is at the south end of the Upper 
Saranac, 2 miles from "Wawbeek." and 3 from Bart- 
lett's. Charles Simpson, proprietor. Boat and stage 
to Saranac Inn Station $1.50. The place is picturesque, 
a combination of log house with additions of later 
stvles and a number of detached cottages in a row 
along at the east facing the lake. 



<)0 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Indian Carry extends from this point south over 
the divide to Stony Creek Ponds one mile. (Portage 
of boat and luggage 75 cents.) Tlie Hia^vatlia 

House at the south end of the carry on the north 
side of the first of the Stony Creek Ponds will provide 
for about 35 guests. Warren W. Hale, proprietor. 
Mr. Hale is a newcomer here but from personal 
experience I can unhesitatingly vouch for the 
wholesomeness of the fare as provided in other 
places. Post-office address, Axton, Franklin Co. A 
stage runs daily from the Hiawatha House through 
the woods to Tupper Lake, 12 miles. Fare $2. For 
rates see appendix. 

Stony Creek Ponds are three in number. The 
first and third are small ; the middle one about a mile the 
longest way. Sometimes called "Spectacle" Ponds 
from their fancied resemblance to these useful articles. 
Stony Creek, applied to the outlet of the Ponds, 
is a misnomer. It is about three miles long, slow, 
sluggish and winding, and difficult of navigation in 
time of low water. At such times it is advisable to 
continue by road 2 miles from the Hiawatha 
House to the Raquette River. 

Raquette River is one of the most interesting 
streams in the Wilderness. Portions are very 
beautiful and wonderful in their solemn beauty. In 
the shallows it is amber, at a greater depth red, then 
a rich brown, then almost like ink. So still it runs 
that it seems more like a river of black glass than 
water. Great, shaggy, twisted cedars line its banks, 
their branches reaching out and do\\'nward toward 
the water, the sides away from the river, limbless and 
verdureless. It has undermined them until they bend 
over and stand curled upward with the even sweep of 
a scimeter, while the smaller limbs, seemingly alarmed 
at their too near approach to the water, turn back 
upon themselves and hang in great hooks and solid 



THE ADIRONDACKS. gl 

festoons from their leaning supports, the whole 
mirrored in the glassy surface where you seem to 
float midway between the heavens above and the 
heavens below. The stream is navigable for boats 
of considerable draft bet\veen Long and Tupper 
Lakes. It is probable that in time a line of small 
steamers will run the length of this stream to con- 
nect with steamers on Long Lake for the South- 




up THE RAQ.UETTE. 



west Lake Region. From where Stony Creek 
enters, it is g miles down the river to Sweeney 
Carry and 1 1 miles further to Tupper Lake. 

Raquette Falls is 7 miles above Stony Creek 
mouth. The water tumbles here about 15 feet. 
Above the Falls is a mile of cascades and rapids. 
Raquette Falls Hotel will furnish dinners at 75 
cents and lodgings if desired. Wm. McClelland, pro- 
prietor. P. O. address, Axton. Here the voyageur 
may be carried over the intervening 1 1^ miles to navi- 
gable waters above, comfortably seated on a buck- 
board under the shadow of his inverted boat, for the 
sum of 50 cents. Transportation of boat and lug- 
gage will cost 75 cents. Five miles above Raquette 
Falls Cold River, coming down from the heights of 
Mt. Seward on the east, joins the Raquette, fur- 
nishing by far the greater portion of the united streams. 



<g2 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Something over a mile further is the foot of Long 
Lake, for which see index. 



ims^^" 



^1 

iin.wiiiii'ir. 



Sweeney Carry extends from Wawbeek west 
three miles to the Raquette River. For transporta- 
tion of boat and luggage across, the price is $1.50. 
Parties of three can ride over on a buckboard for 50 
cents apiece. 

Tromblee's is on the Raquette, at the west end 
of the Sweeney Carry The house is small, affording 
accommodations fvr only six or eight people, but it 

gives a very ac- 
ceptable dinner. 
Mail daily through 
the season. Open 
from May ist to 
November. Oliver 
Tromblee, pro- 
prietor. Post-office 
address Wawbeek, 
N. Y. Buckboards 
can be had here 
by east-coming 
passengers for the 
three mile trip 
over, and carrying wagons for the boats and luggage. 
See appendix for additional particulars. The river 
above this point is delightfully picturesque, marks of 
the desolation caused by the flooded flats not being so 
apparent here as further down. Trolling for pickerel is 
the popular sport and yields most satisfactory results. 
It is about 8 miles from Tromblee's Landing by the 
new road to Tupper Lake Station. By river to the 
foot of Tupper Lake the distance is about 11 miles. 

The Lower Raquette once the most beautiful of 
rivers is to-da}^ a standing protest against the out- 
rages perpetrated in the name of utility — where, as 




AT SWEENEY CARRY. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



93 



the result of damming the streams, a broad stretch 
of grandly wooded valley, whose equal for quiet 
beauty could be found nowhere else in the whole 
Adirondack wilderness, has been alternately flooded 
and drained — that forsooth the logs could be floated 
to market — until the once fragrant and shadowy 
depths is but an expanse of hideous slime-covered flat's 

and malaria- 
breeding pits 
where the skele- 
tons of drowned 
trees totter to 
__ their fall or lie 
^^^^^^p^^^g white and ghast- 
^--i-v^-.-iSii'?' -^ ''^ ^-- ^^ ly on the mirey 

^ -— -^^ ground. Is the 

^^C. --"^i^^^^r^ preservation of 

_^^__^^^^^^_^ ,^ ,^_\ the Adirondacks 

%g ^sa^^s;fc^^^^j.^ ^ merely a matter 
'^^'^—-^--"^i'" ---^-^^^S of s e n t i ment ? 
The desolation 
THE DROWNED LANDS. • ^ g^eatest as the 

foot of Tupper Lake is approached, extending thence 
to Tupper Lake village, the terminus of the Northern 
Adirondack R. R. 

Tupper Lake hangs like a bag on its gathering 
string. The Raquette River is the string. It is 1,554 
feet above tide, nearly seven miles long and three 
broad. It has 25 islands, some level and covered with 
thrifty trees, others barren and rocky, rising steeply 
from the water. Count}^ Island is the largest, being 
nearly a mile in length, and has on its west side a 
precipice known as the Devil's Pulpit. The surround- 
ing country is wild but not grand with mountain 
heights. Mount Morris, at the southeast, is the most 
important elevation of the section. Mount Morris 
House is on the east side of the lake near the outlet. 




94 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 




««"M — occupancy 

■" uncertain at 

this writing. 

Redside Camp, on a 

high bluff, where Red- 
side Brook empties into 
the lake, is a half mile south 
of the Mt. Morris House. 
Capacity 50. Opens June 
ist. The house stands in 
a thrifty grove of second 
growth timber and com- 
mands a wide and beautiful 
view of the lake and the 
country beyond. Martin 
Moody, proprietor. Per- 
haps Mrs. Moody has more 
to do with the providing 
for guests than " Mart," but whoever the responsible 
party may be, they furnish good, wholesome, substan- 
tial fare to make the heart of the hunter and fisherman 
glad. The Post-office called " Moody" is located 
here also, and the proprietor of the house is post- 
master. Mr. Moody has been noted for years as 
•' The Mighty Hunter," and where he fails in knowl- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 95-6-7 

edge as to the best place for game or the best way of 
securing it, there is little hope that others will succeed. 
See appendix for rates, etc. 

Tupper Lake House, which stood on the west 
shore of the lake near its south end, was burned April 
12, '94. liitcbfield Park is in Franklin County, 
the south one-third of Township 25, southeast of 
Tupper Lake. It is held as a private preserve by the 
owner, Edward H. Litchfield of New York, an en- 
thusiast on the question of the propagation of exotic 
game ; and to this end devoting money and all the re- 
sources of the territory owned by him here to that 
purpose. He believes that elk will thrive here where 
they were once common, the last wild one it is believed 
having been killed in 1830 near Saranac Lake. 

Bog River Falls comes picturesquely down over 

the face of the broken rocks at the head of Tupper Lake. 

A ruined saw-mill here marks the site of a past ' 'effort" 

showing a considerable town with public squares 

and buildings — on paper. Little Tupper Lake is 

an easy half day's journey at the south, the most 

tedious part of this way being the two-mile carry from 

Bog River into Round Pond, where the thrifty 

wagoner will charge you $2 for boat and luggage. 

A little house furnishes accommodations to such as 

may need. Beyond by boat and trail, the Raquette 

Lake region is reached. 

******* 

Tupper Lake Village, terminus of the N. A. R. 
R., IS on Raquette Pond, which was created by a 
dam built two miles below Tupper Lake, to facilitate 
lumbering in this section. The town is a revelation 
of sudden growth, interesting to visit but not a place 
where the Adirondack visitor would ordinarily care to 
remain for long. When John Hurd built his road south 
to this point to subserve his vast lumber interests, this 



98 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



was practically virgin forest. The first train ran 
through July ist, 1890. Now there are grouped about its 
terminus a hundred and fifty buildings of various sizes 
and conditions, churches, hotels, (Hotel Altamont is 
the best here,) three school houses, and two steam 
saw-mills, with capacity for sawing 245,000 feet of 
lumber per day. A steamboat runs from this 
point to the various hotels on Tupper Lake, fare 50 
cents to $1. Through train service from New York 
is maintained here during the season over the A. & 
St. L. R. R. The Nortliern Adirondack Rail- 
road reaches to this point from Moira (Gateway 14) 
13 miles west of Ma,lone on the O. & L. C. 

The distance is 56 
miles. The Blue Moun- 
tain House (P. O. Santa 
Clara), near Blue Mountain 
of the North, is four miles 
southwest of Spring Cove, 
27 miles from Moira (daily 
stage 75 cents); will accom- 
modate 50. Board is 
about $6 to $9 per week. 
H. Phelps, proprietor. Ex- 
cept the Blue Mountain 
region there is little of in- 
terest in Gateway 14. The 
railroad w a s built as a 
meansof reaching the val- 
uable lumber of this north- 
ern region and was pushed 
energy — which would have been 
for the irreparable injury it has 




with splendid 

admirable but 

worked — right into the heart of the wilderness to lay 

waste and destroy. Not only has the great timber 

that once stood along the line gone but the smaller 

trees are now rapidly disappearing into the insati- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



99 



able maw of the ill-smelling charcoal kilns, which 

form a valuable part of the equipment of this road. 

With the opening of the A. &. St. L., this line forms 

no necessary part of the way to important points. 
******* 

CMidwold (station) is on the A. & St. L. R. R., 
about six miles west of Tupper Lake. A plank road 
extends from the station west and north through a 
magnificent forest of hard wood to Massawepie 
Lake, the fountain head of Grasse River, one of the 
best trout streams in northern New York, and a noted 
resort for deer. Mr. Addison Child, to whom this sec- 




tion owes much of its prosperity, and Mr. Henry G. 
Dorr, of Boston, together, own the whole western 
half of tov/nship 6, and have preserved, under the 
state law, with the title of Cllild-wold Park, 




iMim 



THE ADIRONDACKS. lOI 

a game and pleasure park of 5,000 acres, embracing 
Lake Massawepie and 5 contributary sheets of water 
that encircle it. 

Childwold Park House and cottags stand on 
the east shore of Massawepie Lake, live miles north 
of Childvyold Station. Accommodations for 300 guests. 
Wm. F. Ingold, of the Magnolia Springs Hotel, 
Florida, is manager and deservedly successful, bring- 
ing to the work not only energy and experience but a 
commendable enthusiasm that exalts the science of 
hotel keeping into the realms of high art. The house 
stands on high ground considerably above the 
water, with piazzas on three sides, and a belvedere, 
rising 78 feet above the lake. It is flanked by a num- 
ber of attractive Queen Anne cottages in the service 
of the hotel. It has natural attractions of broken and 
picturesque wilderness surroundings, and a broad, 
beautiful lake with numerous small ponds adjacent. 
Boats, hunting and fishing supplies, can be obtained 
here with competent men for camp or trail. This 
place with the opening of the A. & St. L. Railroad 
has been made easily accessible. Convenient service 
is maintained from New York and Boston. Wagner 
sleeping cars run from both cities every week day 
(Sunday, also, from New York,) to Childwold Station 
without change. Stage fare from station to hotel, 
$1, including baggage. An illustrated pamphlet 
will be sent free on application to the manager. For 
rates and additional particulars see appendix. 

Tlie Pond View House is on the east shore of 
Catamount Pond (See map), ^\dth capacity for 100 ; 
House open the year round. E. P. Gale, proprietor. 
This was noted for years as a house of entertainment 
for sportsmen. Later it has been provided with mod- 
ern conveniences — which the hardy sportsman of old 
did not consider necessary to his comfort or happiness 
— and provisions made to meet the more exacting ra- 



I02 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



quirements of tourists and summer visitors. Boats 
and competent guides can be secured here and all the 
necessaries of hunting and fishing can be furnished 
by the proprietor. A large farm connected with the 
hotel suppHes fresh milk and eggs, with vegetables in 
their season. The Post Office, known as Gale, is in 







■'I'M- ifAV ^^PJ<^ - ^ " " :^ -~ ■ mr^ 




-3yfe%> 



'^'iki 







one of the buildings connected with the house, and 
the proprietor of the house is postmaster. The place 
as a whole presents an appearance of rustic comfort, 
which with the reasonable terms offered insures a very- 
satisfactory patronage. For price of board etc., see 
Appendix. Six miles soufhwest is Childwold Station. 
One and one-half mile east of Gale is Do"wney's 
Iianding which is eight miles below Raquette Pond. 
Ten below Tupper Lake village. The stream is nav- 
igable from above to this point (except for short carries 
around falls and rapids,) and maybe " done " for 
pleasure or in case of dire necessity. 

This section can be reached via Potsdam (Gate- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



IC3 



way No. 13) There are small houses at intervals 
along the road and river, where entertainment can be 

had at from $1 to $1.50 per 
day. The Forest House is 
at Stark's Falls, 22 miles from 
Potsdam. The Jordan 
House is six miles farther 
opposite the mouth of the Tori 
dan River. The " Kildare 
Club," of New York, composed 
of members of the Vanderbilt 
family and friends, has a hunt- 
ing lodge near Jordan Lake 
and a park of several thousand 
acres surrounding it. Kildare 
Station, on the N. A. Railroad 
and a new road thence to Jordan Lake are for the 
special accommodation of the club. Childwold is 
36 miles from Potsdam. It has an elevation of about 
1,450 feet above tide in a belt of good agricultural land 
on which a colony of farmers are thriviuir. Three 
miles farther south are Childwold Park House and 
vjale. 












'Mm 






&' '^ 




m i 



CHAPTER V. 

Lake Placid, North Elba and 
Clear Lake. 

THE Saranac & Lake Placid railroad is lo miles 
long, terminating about a mile south of Lake 
Placid. Cars of the Chateaugay and the A. & St. L. 
railroads run through without change during the 
summer. Local fare $[ ; round trip $1.50. From 
New York $9.80. Transfer from terminus to Mirror 
Lake, Grand View, vStevens and Lake Placid houses, 
25 cents each person ; same for trunks. Arrange 
with agent on the train. Work was commenced on 
the road May I St, 1893, and passengers carried through 
July 15 following. C. E. Arnold is President ; N. P. 
Stewart, Supt. ; O. Weaver, G. P. A. 

Ray Brook House is three miles east of Saranac 
Lake. Open all the year. Duncan Cameron, pro- 
prietor. Post Office (Ray Brook) and telegraph office 
in the hotel. The air of roominess and generous 
space m the proportions here is quite taking to the 
average seeker after rest. The fare will be found 
alike generous and satisfactory. The house is well 
furnished, substantial and wholesome throughout. 
Of special interest is the brook that gives name 
to the house, and the adjacent ponds, belonging 
to the proprietor, who has stocked them with trout 
and holds them as a preserve for the use of 
himself and guests, affording excellent sport at 
all seasons. Guests given to angling will find a 
kindred spirit in the proprietor who is an enthusiast 



lo6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

and an expert in that line. Camp supplies can be 
found here and good serviceable teams for long or 
short drives to other hunting or fishing resorts. 
Trains on the new road will stop close by Ray Brook. 
Carriage to the house, free. For rates and additional 
particulars see appendix. 

At North Elba stages are taken for Lake Placid^ 
Adirondack Lodge, Ames' and Cascade Lakes. The 
Elba House, near the station, will provide for a lim- 
ited number. 

Lake Placid (village) is the outgrowth of a senti- 
ment — love of the beautiful in nature. Not that its 
existence argues necessarily that all who live there 
are dominated by this idea, but those who come from 
afar must be cared for, and the village that has grown 
up here is the result. When, in 1S73, the writer first 
visited Lake Placid, the old Lake Placid House, known 
generally as "Brewster's," and "Nash's," the little 
red farm house, still standing at the lake shore south- 
east of the Stevens House, were the only habitations. 
in this section. Now a thrifty village with churches, 
and schoolhouses line the shores of Mirror Lake and 
the road to the south, while summer cottages and 
princely hotels bid welcome to a host of summer vis- 
itors. Mirror Liake, along the west side of which 
the village has grown to about one mile long by ons- 
third of a mile wide. 

Lake Placid (the watery part thereof) is over at 
the north, and, although distant from Mirror Lake but 
a little M'ay, the two are effectually separated by a 
ridge that runs between. It is an oblong, something 
over four miles in length and about two broad, meas- 
uring through or between the islands, of which there 
are three, called respectively Hawk, Moose and Buck. 
Hawk is small, but Moose and Buck are large, beau- 
tiful islands in a line from the first toward the south- 
west, the three dividing the sheet into what are. 



THF. ADIROXDACKS. 




locally known asthe " East" 
and ''West" lakes. Its al- 
titude is 1,863 f^^t above 
tide. 

Mirror Lake Hotel 
is the first of the great 
houses as we approach from 
the south. Capacity 300. 
C. E. Martin, manager. 
This hotel has all the ma- 
chinery of a first-class house. It stands at the south 
end of Mirror Lake, commanding a view of theentire 
lake towards the east and north, the picturesque vil- 
lage of Lake Placid straggling along its shores, a bit 



THE ADIRONDACKS. IO9 

of Lake Placid itself, and Whiteface Mountain be- 
yond, while, stretched along the southern sky is seen 
the grand panorama of mountain peaks. It is a 
roomy structure, with the necessary comforts of the 
great hotel of the day. It has ample piazzas and 
public rooms, electric light and steam heat. It is 
furnished richly and comfortably. It has spacious 
halls and sleeping rooms with high ceilings ; is 
capable of thorough ventilation and is un^er the 
most perfect of sanitary regulations. Withm, are 
biUiards and bowhng ; without, all of the amusements 
common to outdoor life are at command. Here grace- 
giving tennis and the more sedate croquet claim each 
their admirers ; those who would row or fish can be 
provided with all that is necessary for comfort or 
pleasure while riding and driving, staple amusements 
the world over, may be indulged in, for saddle horses 
and every class of vehicle common to the mountains, 
are found in the hotel livery. There is a telegraph 
office in the hotel and mails come and go twice a day. 
This property is owned by the Lake Placid Hotel 
Companv of which the manager is a director. Paul 
Smith is also a shareholder. Paul Smith's reputation 
as a hotel man extends wherever the Adirondack wil- 
derness is known. The famous hotel at St. Regis 
Lake has been celebrated for years as the fashionable 
resort of the wilderness. Years ago when m its earlv 
prime, and almost the only hotel of note m the wil- 
derness, a boy started in its service, who, with the m- 
quisitiveness of a bov, and the determination of a 
growing man to know everything to be learned about 
a great hotel, served faithfully until every depart- 
ment was as familiar to him as A, B, C, of schoolboy 
days. Eventually a great share in the management 
of the old house fell to his lot until other hands came 
to relieve him, when, after nearly 25 years of faithful 
service he graduated to take upon himself larger re- 



'IHE ADIRONDACKS. 



Ill 



sponsibilities in different fields. This boy is the pres- 
ent manager of the Mirror Lake Hotel, and a host of 
friends who remember his uniform courtesy and genial 
ways in the office of the old St. Regis Lake House, 
testify now to the splendid success of his later venture. 
To Mr. Martin's indomitable pluck and enterprise is 
also due the new railroad which now reaches from 
Saranac Lake to this point, for which he labored per- 
sistently until it became an assured fact ; while a road 
to the summit of Whiteface Mountain, the most beau- 
tiful and diverse outlook in the Adirondacks is but a 
question of the near future. Title has been acquired 
by Mr. Martin and others and the construction of the 
road only a question of time. For rates at the Mirror 
Lake House and additional particulars see appendix. 




I Gothic. 



THE GREAT PEAKS FROM LAKE PLACID. 

2 Saddleback. 3 Basin. 4 Marcy. 5 Golden. 



6 Mclntire. 



The Grand View House stands on the high 
ground rising west of Mirror Lake. Recent additions 
gives it capacity for over 200 guests. For rates, 
etc. see appendix. Henry Allen, proprietor. Mr. 
Allen is pleasant, agreeable and obliging. The man- 
agement is unconventional, ergo, popular. The house 
is appropriately enough named the "Grand View," 
for not only does it command the view north, east and 
south, common to other hotels here, but also the quiet 
of spreading forests towards the v/est and the moun- 



112 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

tains that lie about far-away Saranac Lake. It is 
nicely furnished, its beds are the best. Pure spring 
water is brought through pipes into the house. Its 
commanding position renders drainage easy and 
thorough. It has its own telegraph ofhce connected 
with the regular line, and has livery accommodations 
such as may be found at all good hotels. It is kept 
open also as a winter resort. Large stoves and open 
fireplaces are in the main rooms, double windows have 
been provided and the large piazza enclosed with glass. 
Tlie Stevens House built in iS86 is on the high 
land that separates Mirror Lake from Lake Placid. J. 
A. & G. A. Stevens, proprietors. This is one of the 
great hotels of the Adirondacks. It has a front of 
over 200 feet, is four stories high, with piazzas on 
every side, alfording choice of wind or sun, and with 
annex and cottages affords accommodations for nearly 
400. The parlors and dining-room have each an 
area of about 3,000 square feet. It is lighted by elec- 
tricity. A hydraulic pump forces water to all part.-i 
of the house, and with hose attachment, is guard 
against possible fire. The bedding, carpets, etc,, came 
from Arnold, Constable & Co. The beds are of woven 
wire, and with hair mattresses. The sanitary condi- 
tions are believed to be perfect. Telegraph office in 
the house. This house stands 200 feet above Lake 
Placid whose surface is 1,863 feet above tide and com- 
mands undoubtedly the most comprehensive view of 
any hotel in the Adirondacks. To the energy and far- 
sightedness of the proprietors, who were the pioneers 
in the new Lake Placid, is due much of the prosperity 
of this place. They have triumphed over fire and 
tornado and their house is an assured success. Per- 
sonally they are deserving of success. The senior mem- 
ber of the firm is an acknowledged authority on hunt- 
ing matters to whom even the guides defer, and 
the junior, fresh :^rom legislative honors, has no 



THE ADIRONDACKS. Il^ 

reason to doubt the estimation in which he is 
held by his fellow townsmen. The Messrs Ste- 
vens are owners of considerable real estate lying 
along shore and between Mirror Lake and Lake 
Placid. This property has been laid out in building 
lots. Several cottages stand here, others will be built 
soon, and, in the near future, one may reasonably ex- 
pect to see this entire slope occupied by elegant villas 
or cozy cottages, as individual taste may dictate. 
This is a very desirable place for a summer cottage, 
being sightly and cool ; while its elevated position and 
the nature of the soil places it above any suggestion 
of unwholesome air or conditions. 

Furnislied Cottages and camps and camp or 
cottage sites, fronting directly on the lake, may also 
be obtained on very reasonable terms by applying to 
Clarence M. Noble, at Lake Placid, or at loo Broad- 
vv^ay, New York City. 

The Lake Placid House is at the head of Mir- 
ror Lake, east of the Stevens House. Open June ist. 
G. W. Baldwin, proprietor. See appendix for par- 
oculars. 

Tlie Rouisseaumont is on the east shore of Lake 
Placid. Capacity 200. T. Edmund Krumbholz, man- 
ager. The house was built and opened first in 1S92. 
It is in a niche carved out of the virgin forest, stand- 
ing on high ground which slopes rapidly down from 
it to the lake shore. Facing westerly, it looks out 
across the broad lake between the southern peninsula 
and Moose Island. It was built and furnished with 
the idea of making it one of the most complete hotels 
in the Adirondacks. The manager, late manager at 
Hotel Wawbeek, ranks high as an entertainer. Stages 
run to and from all trains. P. O. Lake Placid. For 
additional particulars see appendix. 

Wliite Face Inn is on the west shore of Lake 
Placid almost directh^ opposite the Rouisseaumont. 




H'tr^'^,' 






U3 

X 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 1 5-6-7 

Capacity 150. Child & Farintosh, proprietors. Post 
Office, Whiteface, Essex Co., N. Y. The house is 
about 40 feet above the surface of the lake, almost 
surrounded by native forest trees. In front, a broad 
passage leads into the East Lake. Through this is 
seen the striking bluff known as the Devil's Pulpit, 
the mountains around Wilmington Pass, and in the 
distance, Marcy and other peaks. The West Lake, 
stretching northeast, forms the middle-ground of a 
picture of which the distance is the rugged and noble 
contour of Whiteface — a view pronounced by many 
the finest of this famous peak. Behind and on either 
hand is the forest into which go pleasant Avalks and 
bridle paths, one of the latter extending to the top of 
Colborn Peak, a half mile distant. The house is three 
stories, with spacious rooms, and wide, double piaz- 
zas on the north, south and east sides, and with ad- 
ditional guests' rooms in a line of connecting cot- 
tages at the north. The management is vested in 
Mrs. JohnM. Child of "The Pines," Lakewood, New 
Jersey's celebrated winter resort, and Mr. Gilbert 
Farintosh of the Laurel House, for the last twd 
years associated in the management of Whiteface 
Inn. The names stand among friends as a guarantee 
of good fare and management. For rates at White- 
face Inn see appendix. Castle Rustico on the 
west shore opposite Moose Island is an immense 
structure of logs, rough outside and rustic in finish. 
W. F. Leggett, proprietor. It is open for the enter- 
tainment of guests. For rates apply to the proprietor. 
Under Cliff is on the west shore well up toward 
the head of the lake, but easily accessible from the 
village by the numerous trips of the little steamer 
Ida. The woods are here unbroken save a park-like 
opening among the trees just sufficient to give place 
for the large central building, a number of small 
cottages, the boat house and Casino, and the commo- 



Il8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

dious dining ha.l, which make up this attractive resort. 
Back toward the west stretches the virgin forest 
cUmbmg to the top of Mt. McKenzie. Near by are 
pleasant coves and streams and woodsy paths. Na- 
ture made the place charming with many desirable 
features which a true lover of nature has utilized and 
adapted to our conventional needs and tastes. Origi- 
nally the private camp of a physician who felt the 
need of occasional summ_er rest, its comforts came to 
be shared by patients who were friends, then by 
others who were not patients but were attracted by 
the beauty and hospitality of the place, until, making 
a virtue of what seemed almost a necessity, the camp 
was thrown open to the public generally, but with 
such circumspection as to ensure agreeable social en- 
vironment. Under the fostering care of its owner. 
Dr. Chas. D. Alton, of Hartford, Conn., it has grown 
to meet the comfortable needs of 75 guests and yet 
retain the agreeable features of a large private camp. 
Some early spoke of it, through error, as a sanitarium, 
but that title and character has, from the beginning, 
been vigorously avoided. 

Cliubb River, the outlet of Lake Placid, runs 
toward the southwest, and in circling around towards 
the east approaches quite near to Paradox Pond, and 
soon after joins with the Au Sable to pass through 
Wilmington Notch. 

Whiteface Mountain stands in the north at 
the head of Lake Placid, pyramidal in form, its 
base thickly clothed with spruce and balsam, its head 
of naked granite, seamed with deep rifts, rugged and 
broken in outline. Early in Autumn and late in 
Spring, it wears its white hood of snow, that obviously 
earned for it its name of "Whiteface" from thejindian. 
Its summit is 3,008 feet above Lake Placid — 4,871 feet 
above the ocean. The ascent is made by leaving the 
lake at its head and following a precipitous trail 3 
miles to the summit. Trails also run from Wilming- 



THE ADIFONDACKS. 



119 



ton, at the northeast, and from Franklin Falls, at the 
northwest. It affords unquestionably the finest moun- 
tain view in the Adirondacks, giving in different quar- 
ters, cultivated valley and lowland, at the north 
and east ; broken mountain ranges at the south, and 
the broad lake-spangled region toward the west, 

with beautiful Lake Placid like a mirror at its feet, 
******* 

"John Brown's body lies a-mouldering'^in the grave, 
And his soul goes marching on ''—Old Son^. 

Jolin Bro"WTi, "The old man of Osawatomie," 
came to North Elba and secured a large tract of land 
proposing to es- 
tablish a home 
which should be 
a refuge for the 
persecuted 
black, and here 
undoubtedly ma- 
tured the plot by 
which negro 
slavery was to be 
wiped out in the 
blood of white 
men. Here he 
gathered quite a 
company a Dout 
him, then in the 
fullness of time — 
October 17 ; 1859- 
at Harper's Fer- 
ry, struck the 
first hard blow at 
slavery in this 
country which, 
like the smell of 
blood to wild 
beasts, rendered 




cAr/ryiy (/h^^^^^i^ny* 



I20 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

any settlement of the question short of a resort to arms 
impossible. The whole is history now. There were 
22 in all, white and black, with the old man when he 
opened fire. When he was forced to surrender, one 
son was among the dead, a second lay mortally 
wounded by his side. Condemned and hanged as one 
of the greatest criminals of the age, yet, when his 
body was borne north to be buried at his old home 
among the mountains it was as a triumphal ma^-^^h, 
for cities were draped in mourning, and bells tolled 
all along the way ! And here one terribly cold day in 
bleak December a few who had loved the old man laid 
his body away in the frozen ground, for he had said 
" when I die, bury me by the big rock where I love to 
sit and read the word of God." Then his large family 
v\'as dispersed, the w4dow finally selling the farm, 
of 244 acres for $800, Later, Kate Field made a pil- 
grimage to the grave and told the story, and eighteen 
New York men and one Boston woman added a hun- 
dred dollars each that the John Brown farm and grave 
might be secured to the public forever. The names 
are Kate Field, Isaac H. Bailey, John E. Wil- 
liams, William H. Lee, George A. Robbins, George 
Cabot Ward, Henry Clews, Randolph Martin, Le 
Grand B. Cannon, Chas. S. Smith, S. B. Chittenden, 
Isaac Sherman, Jackson S. Schultz, Elliott C. Cowdin, 
Thomas Murphy, Charles G. Judson, Laken H. Wales, 
Sinclair Tousey, Horace B. Claflin and ' ' a Boston 
Avoman." 

Tlie JotLn Brown Farm is about two miles south- 
east of Lake Placid. A half mile drive through the 
open lane and field, brings you to the house and 
grave. The house is weather-beaten and old, but if 
you want a wholesome country meal you can get it 
there, and lodging also in an old-fashioned country 
bed at a moderate price^with most cheerful attendance 
to your other wants. If you desire a souvenir of the 



TJIE ADIRONDACKS. 



121 









place in line of photograph or book, you will find them 
here in various forms with maple sugar always in sea- 
son, and a flower, perhaps, from beside the Big Rock 
that bears across its face in great letters, ' ' John 
Brown, 1859." 

Tlie Grave is marked by an old, time-stained head- 
stone, which once did duty over the 
remains of John Brown's grandfather 
in old Massachusetts. The corners 
are chipped off and defaced so that 
parts of the letters are lost. The upper 
half is in the quaint characters of ' ' ye 
olden time," the lower of a more re- 
I y. cent date ; the face bears the follow- 
li, ^ng inscription : 

"In memory of capt'" John Brow 
Who Died At Newyork Sep' Ye 3 
1776 in the 42 year of his Age. 

"John Brown Born May g \%oo was executed af 
C/tarlesto9t, Va, Dec. 2. 1859." 

" Oliver Brown Born Mar. 9, 1S39, was killed at 
Harpers Ferry Oct. 17. 1859." 

On the back is the following : 

" In memory of Frederick son of John and Dianth 
Brown, Born Dec 21. 1830 and murdered at Osawa- 
tomie, Kansas, Aug 30, 1S56 for his adherence to the 
cause of Freedom." 

"Watson Brown, Born Oct 7, 1835 Avas wounded 
at Harpers Ferry & died Oct. 19, 1859." 

Beside the older is a newer grave containing the 
body of Watson Brown, brought here and laid near 
the father, October 12, 18S2, after remaining unburied 
for nearly twenty-three years. Considered by the au- 
thorities of Virginia sirnply as that of a criminal, it 
was given after death to tlie Medical College at Win- 
chester, and there preserved as an anatomical speci- 



122 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



men — the mother appealing in vain for the privilege 
of giving it Christian burial. Later, when the town 
was occupied by the Union forces, it was carried off 
\>y an Indiana surgeon, and kept by him as a curi- 
osity until in 1SS2, when he informed the survivors 
■of its whereabouts and offered to restore it for more 
decstit interment. From Indiana the poor buffeted 
bod/ went to the mother in Ohio, and was finally 
brou T^ht here, and laid to rest beside the " big rock," 
where he had played as a boy while learning strange 
theories of "duty." 

A wooden box covers the headstone, secured by 
lock and key ordinarily, to protect it from the asthetic 
relic hunter who usually comes with a hammer and 
■chisel. The box will be removed to allow of the in- 
spection of the stone by the visitor, and of course the 
visitor will not allow the little service to go unre- 
warded. 




Mountain View House, more commonly known 
■as " Ames'," is 51^ miles east of Lake Placid 
Station. Will accommodate about thirty-five guests. 
Gardiner & George, proprietors. Post Office, Cas- 
cadeville. Telegraph in the house. This house has 
earned a well-deserved reputation for homelike com- 
fort and hospitality, and in addition to considera- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 23. 

ble transient custom, gets its full quota of those who,, 
for sanitary reasons, seek the healing air of this high 
plain. The accommodations are good, the fare whole- 
some and satisfying, and the service very pleasant, 
and agreeable. 

Cascade Lake House is 4 miles east of Ames', 
Capacity 100. For rates and particulars see appen- 
dix. E. M. Weston, proprietor. P. O. Cascadeville. 
The hotel and its accompanying buildings is "Cas- 
cadeville." It stands on about the only available land 
found in the notch between the Upper (west) 
and Lower Cascadie Lakes, opposite the Cascade 
which, in the rainy season is a torrent, in time of 
drouth a tiny thread hanging down over the face of 
the cliff a thousand feet above. Stage passengers 
usually stop here for dinner in entering or going out 
by way of Westport. 

Cascade Lakes are 2,038 feet above tide lying 
between Long Pond Mountain, which rises abruptly 
along their south side and Pitchoff Mountain on the 
north, the road passing east along the north side on the 
debris that has fallen from the cliffs above. Origin- 
ally one lake it has been bridged by the matter brought 
down by Cascade Brook to form two. The Upper 
Lake is' 1.3 of a mile long. The Lower, much nar- 
rower, is something over a mile in extent. Both are 
deep in places and quite noted for trout. East of 
Cascade Lakes the road finds its way down into 
Keene Valley and places better reached from Gateway 
No. 3. 

South From Ames' the view is one of singular 
beauty and breadth. The land slopes away down 
into the valley, then rises in long, sweeping lines to- 
the foothills, thence to higher ridges and peaks, and 
finally to the grand heights of Mclntire, the central 
figure in this mountain picture, flanked as it is by 




ADIROKDACK LODGE, 



THE ADIROXDACKS. 1 2 5, 

Wallface on the west guarding the famous Indian 
Pass, and Mt. Golden on the east across the wild 
notch where repose the waters of Avalanch Lake. 
Outlined against the broad chest of Mclntire — in re- 
ality a spur from its side — is a lower summit, Mt. Jo, 
sometimes called the Bear. Between this and the 
main mountain, more than 2,000 feet above tide, rests 
Clea>r Lake, a lovely sheet of water of about 30 
acres in extent, with shores of white sand and a bor- 
der of shrubs and trees remaining in all their native 
beauty. 

Adirondack Lod^e is here, nine miles from Lake 
Placid Station. Capacity 100. (For rates and other 
particulars see appendix.) Henry Van Hoevenbergh, 
proprietor. P. O. North Elba. To get here, drive 
nearly 4 miles east from the station (to a point •'•4 mile 
v.-est of Ames') and turn south in a road which will 
take you by open field two miles, then through dense for- 
ests three more, to your destination. Guide boards 
every half mile measure the distance as you go. The 
" Lodge" stands on the east shore of Clear Lake al- 
most hidden among the trees save where its high ob- 
serv^ation tower lifts its head above their tops. The 
Lodge is one of the most unique and picturesque 
structures in the country ; a resort for nature's lovers, 
where nature's handiwork has been respected. It is 
of logs, 96 feet front, 36 feet deep, and three stories 
high, with a rear wing of almost equal size. Forming 
a part of the building is the substantial tower, also of 
logs, rising above the tree tops and affording such a 
view as can be found at no other house in the Adiron- 
dacks, for with a widely extended vision, no sign of 
civilization can be discerned. A broad piazza sur- 
rounds the lower portion of the house, its upper deck 
reached from the rooms above or by rustic outside 
stairs. Everything about the house or grounds evin- 
ces the cultivated taste of the owner, for the samr^ 



126 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

■sentiment that protected hoary tree and gracefvu 
shrub alike, made cunning joints among the logs, and 
left their rugged bark intact so that every pilaster, 
balustrade or railing is still clothed in the rich brown 
covering that nature gave it. Within, the same good 
taste prevails. The walls are plastered, to be sure, 
and noise-deadened, but paint and Brussels carpeting 
are tabooed as not in keeping with the place. The 
furniture is of hard wood, plain and substantial. The 
beds are of the best. Fireplaces make the principal 
rooms comfortable on occasion. An electric annun- 
ciator puts sleeping rooms and office in communica- 
tion. The windows are large single panes of plate 
glass in swinging sash. A well at the door with old- 
fashioned wheel and bucket furnishes the best tonic 
to be found here — or anywhere else. A lawn tennis 
and croquet ground is in an opening near the lake ; 
swings and arbors among the trees, and boats on the 
water afford means of quiet comfort and amusement. 
During the season a stage runs regularly to the 
railroad or to connect with the regular line at the 
Transfer Station. Guides, tents and suitable cloth- 
ing for camp or tramp may be obtained at the house. 
Trails to the wild lakes of the deeper forests and 
to the summits of the mountains radiate from this point. 
To the top of Mount Jo. is a fifteen minute scram- 
ble — and a breath-taking one it is as you near the 
summit, too, — but from the outlook is seen one of the 
most charming low mountain views known to the 
writer. To Indian Pass ( Summit Rock) is 6 miles, 
from which point Lake Henderson,— 5 miles beyond 
and 1,300 feet below — can be seen. Close by Lake 
Henderson is the " Ruined Village" now headquarters 
of the Adirondack Club. To the top of Mount 
Marey the distance is 71^ miles. To top of Mcln- 
tire about 41^ miles ; between the two is Mt. 
Colden, a cone-like peak with the silvery 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



127 



track of the avalanche down its western face. 

Avalanche Lake the wildest lake in the woods. 

lies between Mt. Mclntire and Mt. Golden, 5 miles 

from Adirondack 
Lodge. Its altitude 
is 2, 846 feet above tide. 
Its waters are cold and 
deep. It is a half-mile 
in length and but a 
few rods wide, the dark 
rock rising almost per- 
pendicular for many 
feet upward on either 
side. The trail, such as 
it is, runs along the west 
side, at one point de- 
scending to the water's, 
edge, the place rendered 
passable by means of a 
floating log anchored 
alongside the vertical 
AVALANCHE LAKE FROM NORTH, wall. A remarkable 
trap dike here shows a sectionof Mount Golden, split 
downward for a thousand feet, its out-flowing rocks 
nearlv bridging the lake. 

Lake Golden is a half mile south of the foot of 
Avalanche Lake. Between the two is a small moun- 
tain of debris which came down the side of Mount 
Golden in some ancient land-slide, imprisoning the 
waters of the upper lake. This probably, next to 
Avalanche Lake, gives the wildest water view m the 
wilderness. Its outlet is through the Opalescent 
River which lower down, becomes the North River, 
and ^till lower, the Hudson. On the west shore is a 
log house belonging to the Adirondack Club where a 
forester is kept to guard the interests of the Associa- 
tion' and see that laws respecting the preservation of 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 29 

game and fish are properly carried out. North of this 
log camp a few rods, is an open camp where parties 
going or comin may make themselves reasonably 
comfortable for the night. 

Marcy Trail leads past the foot of Lake Golden. 
Adirondack "The Ruined village" is 7 miles west. 
The "round trip" from Adirondack Lodge is as we 
have come to this point thence west to the Ruined 
village and back to the Lodge through Indian Pass — 
a total of about 25 miles. The trip should be broken 
by stopping over at the Club House at Adirondack, 
Avhere entertainment can be had for a night. 

Mount Marcy (summit) is 5 miles from the foot of 
Lake Golden. The trail is quite difficult in places 
leading up along the little stream which is the outlet 
of Xiake Tear-of-the-Clouds resting something 

over a half-mile 
^^8 from the top of 
Mount ]\I a r c y 
and 4,321 feet 
above tide. This 
is the highest 
body of flowing 
water in the 
State and the 
pond-source of 
the Hudson 
river. It is but 
a few rods in 
extent, sur- 
rounded by a 
coars e bog , 
tremulous over unknown depths of black muck. Its 
level floor is black as ink, thinly covered with the clear 
water through which occasionalsnafl-shells shine white 
as snow. About the little pool, stunted trees make an 
unequal fight for life agai n st the cold. A Httle higher on 




LAKE TEAR-OF-THE-CLOUDS. 



130 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the mountain lLo fight is given up and at the top only- 
lichens and hardy Alpine grasses find refuge in shel- 
tered places. If breathless and athirst when near the 
top, you may find on the west side a huge pocket in the 
rock filled with soft, spongy moss. Press the moss 
aside and the space will be full of pure cold water. 
The upper thousand feet is bare. It is naked rock the 
farthest down on the south-west side ; the west side has 
more the appearance of a hillside pasture than a 
mountain above vegetation, its partial covering of 
Alpine grasses and other plants giving it that appear- 
ance. Tlie ascent of Marcy may be made from 
Adirondack Lodge which is nearest of any house 
of entertainment, 7*^ miles distant ; from Keene Val- 
ley by way of John's Brook (12 miles) or the Au 
Sable Lakes, or from the " Ruined Village " at the 
Adirondack Iron Works. The last two routes unite 
near Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds. It will not be advis- 
able to make the ascent from any direction without a 
guide, although it is possible for those accustomed to 
mountain climbing and mountain trails to do so. 
Those who know all about it will need no advice ;, 
those who do not, wnll need a guide as no amount of 
written directions will suffice. Another bit of advice ! 
Take two days for the trip, and plenty of provisions 
and blankets, and camp out somewhere on the way — 
your guide will know where. 

The Summit of Marcy is of the oldest known 
rock on the earth. Its head was lifted above the water 
in the early morn of creation and stood for ages bat- 
tling with the elements while yet the mighty mountains 
of the Eastern Hemisphere were buried beneath the 
ocean. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Keeseville, The Au Sable River and 

Salmon River Valley. 

GATEWAY 2 leads from Port Kent past Au Sable 
Chasm (see page 40) and up the Au Sable River. 
Keeseville, on the Au Sable River, five miles from 
Port Kent, and nearly two above Au Sable Chasm is 

thrifty, and 
enterprising. 
It has a num- 
ber of fine 
private resi- 
dences and 
public e d i - 
fices, built of 
the beautiful 
creamy sand- 
stone which 
underliesthis 
section of the 
country. The 
water- power 
is utilized in 
the twine, 
wire, and iron 
manuf acto r - 
ies, and by 
the Au Sable Horse-Nail Company, here, and at the 
Nail-Rod Works, on the road to Au Sable Chasm. It 
has numerous churches, a graded school, and a wide- 
awake weeklv — the Essex County Repitblican — which 
keeps the public in f healthy state of agitation. 




131 



132 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Au^ur Lake, a charming bit of water, is two and 
a half miles south of Keeseville. The Interlaken at 
this point is three stories high, with verandas, and, 
with inside and outside stairways for the upper floors. 
It has accommodations for about loo guests. C. B. 
White, manager. Beyond the lake rise the rocky 
walls of Poke o' Moonshine and Baldface mountains. 
At the south is Poke o' Moonshine Pass. 

T^e Au Sable Valley Railroad has been sur- 
veyed from Keesevnlle to Lake Placid. The line fol- 
lows up the river to Au Sable Forks, thence along the 
East Branch past Upper, and Lower, Jay to Keene, 
thence up John's Broak Valley around Mount Porter 
a:id ov-er toward the northwest through North Elba 
to connect with the new road from Saranac Lake at 
Lake Placid — and yet correctly speaking it may be 
termed an " Air line." 

TJie Au Sable Valley above Keeseville is pictur- 
esque in a quiet pastoral way, growing wilder as the 
Ime enters the narrower glens of the East Branch. 
Rogers' Station is 14 miles from Port Kent and 20 
miles from. Plattsburgh. It is the terminus of the Au 
Sable Branch road which extends from the last named 
place. A stage connects with morning trains for Au 
Sable Forks, Jay and Keene Valley. Jay is 7 miles 
from Rogers' Station ; stage fare 50 cents. Elm- 
wood Farm Cottage is the dining place for stage 
passengers to and from Lake Placid by this route. 
F. J. Baldwin, proprietor. Upper Jay, 4 miles 
further south, is a charmingly quiet and pictur- 
esque hamlet, shut in by the close pressing hills. 
Wholesome fare and cheerful service may be found at 
the little inn kept here by C. H. Coppins. Six miles 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 33 

further south is Keene, beyond which is noted Keene 
Valley, for which see Chapter VII. 

The West Branch of the Au Sable River joins 
with the East Branch at Au vSable Forks coming down 
through Wilmington Notcli, which is one of the 
most picturesque passes in the wilderness, the road 
running along the east base of Whiteface Mountain to 
Lake Placid. Lack of hotel accommodations and en- 
terprise, and the usual fearfully bad condition of the 
road has made the way one rather to be avoided than 
otherwise, in the past. Wilmingrton, 26 miles from 
Port Kent, is on the Au Sable where it flows along the 
east base of Whiteface Mountain. It gives inarked 
evidence of former prosperity, and, at some past time, 
was a centre of considerable importance. Now it is a 
little hamlet, combining the old and the new pictur- 
esquely enough. Entertainment can be found here in 
two little hotels. A trail leads from this point 6 miles 
to the top of Whiteface Mountain. Peasleville is 
outside the great public thoroughfares where the 
pleasure-seeker goes up and down, and comparatively 
unknown to the summer tourist. It lies among the 
hills about 10 miles north of Au Sable Forks on the 
little stream that empties into Lake Champlain south 
of Bluff Point. It is reached best over the Au Sable 
Branch railroad from Plattsburgh to Peru, thence by 
carriage six miles west. It lies between two parallel 
mountain spurs that project eastward from the great 
Adirondack system, enclosing the Salmon River 
Valley. Accommodations can be found among the 
farm houses in the valley (or on the mountain sides, if 
one is inclined to seek the greater elevations) where 
wholesome country fare, with an abundance of fresh 
farm and dairy products can be had and willing and 
unstinted service. Address Arnold & Ricketson, 
Peasleville, CHnton Co. , for particulars of names and 
places. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Elizabeth TOWN, Keene Valley and The 

Au Sable Lakes. 

WESTPORT (gateway No. 3) is the main entrance 
to the Mountain Region. An enjoyable stage 
ride of eight miles in a westerly course, leads through 
a notch where we can look down into a lovely, moun- 
tain-guarded retreat 
known as Pleasant 
Valley. It is scarcely 
less beautiful than 
its twin sister, Keene 
Valley, over beyond 
the grand ridges to 
the west, save that 
the mountains do not 
crowd against it quite 
so closely, and like 
it, is a favorite resort 
for the artist and 
quiet lover of nature, 
and for ladies, whose 
protectors, made of 
sterner stuff, are " roughing it" in the mountains and 
lakes farther west. 

Elizabetllto'wn is the cotmty seat of Essex Coun- 
ty. It contains a native population of about 1000 ; 
has five churches — Congregational, Methodist, Bap- 
tist, Episcopal and Roman Catholic, court-house and 
jail, offices of county officials, hotels, stores, etc. It is 
peculiarly an American towm, having very little 
foreign population, with no mills or forges to fill the 
streams with sawdust, your clothes with soot, or your 
eyes with cinders. 




13s 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 137 

The Windsor is the great hotel of Pleasant Val- 
ley, affording accommodations for 2 50 guests. Orlando 
Kellogg, owner and proprietor. This house ha^. 
worthily earned a reputation that has placed it among 
the select hotels of the Adirondack Mountains. It is 
picturesque and unique, consisting of four buildings 
of uniform shape closely connected by covered prom- 
enades and wide piazzas extending along the first and 
second stories. Each building is three stories high, 
and on each is a glass enclosed observatory which 
may be used for observation purpose or utilized on 
occasion, for dormitories. The convenient office is a 
general assembly room for lady and gentlemen guests 
alike, and contains, besides the usual fittings of the 
hotel office a telegraph office and news and notion 
stand. Adjoining, are the gentlemen's lounging 
room, etc., on one hand, and on the other a music 
room with elevated stage and necessary appliances 
for amateur dramatic and musical performances, 
while the ground floors of other buildings contain re- 
ception room and parlors. Sleeping rooms, commo- 
dious and well furnished, and a superior table, meet 
the requirements of the traveling public. There are 
bowling alleys and billiards indoor, tennis courts and 
croquet grounds outside. A well appointed stable 
affords facilities for the enjoyment of the interesting 
drives that abound in this section. Guides, with all 
the necessary equipment for sport, can be arranged 
for at the office, while the Windsor Trout Pond, 
owned by the proprietor of the house, is held for the 
special use of guests. In short, what energy can pro- 
vide to make the Windsor a desirable resort gives it a 
variety of interests approached by few places in the 
Adirondacks. For particulars address the proprietor 
at Elizabethtown. See appendix for rates for board. 

Stages connect with all trains at Wesport. Fare 
$r.oo. The four and six-horse "tally-ho" coaches 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 39 

running; here tend to popularize this route among 
lovers of coaching. The run is over an excellent 
road, through a picturesque ^section, and is not so 
long as to become wearisome. Stage for Keene Valley 
leaves morning and afternoon. Fare $1.50. 

Tlie Mansion House stands on the broad, level 
plateau that extends southward from the village to 
the head of the valley. It is the large building seen 
prominently as the stage dips over into the valley in 
approaching from the east. It is suggestive of free- 
dom and good cheer in its ample proportions. It has 
been long and favorably known and has an excellent 
patronage with the complement of returning guests 
year after year. It has, in addition to the main build- 
ing, cottages for guests, affording altogether accom- 
modations for 150. " Music Hall" is a feature appre- 
ciated by all. Mobile tennis, croquette, billiards, 
bowling, etc. , are standard amusements. There is a 
telegraph office in the house, which is open the year 
round. Stage fare to Westport, $1. S. J. Lamson 
& Co., proprietors. E. E. Wakefield, clerk. For 
rates and other particulars see appendix. 

Maplewood Inn (formerly the Valley House) is 
in the lower town Avith quiet village surroundings. 
Rates and particulars will be given on application to 
the proprietor, G. W. Jenkins. 

Hurricane Mountain, a sharp cone, on which 
the sun seems to hang as it bids the valley good-night, 
is the highest peak near by. A wagon road leads to 
its base, five miles distant, from which, by a sharp 
climb of two miles, the summit is reached. It gives 
one of the finest high views to be obtained in the Adi- 
rondacks — second, perhaps, only to that from the top 
of Whiteface. Cobble Hill rises at the southwest 
edge of the plain like a huge, rough pyramid. Beyond 
this, toward the south, the mountains approach each 
other, growing rough and precipitous as the level 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

mtervale narrows to a mere notch. Split Rock is 
ci the head of the valley, 8 miles south, ihese talis 
fre exceed n^ly picturesque, and the flume wild and 
broken A frail has been cut along the course, the 
wav made safe by a rustic baluster where necessary. 
SSt refreshments maybe had of the care-taker^ 

?Sanged to Euba Mills. Here a ™ad tarns west lead- 
'".«do?KSL''raUe?°''f^^^^^^^ 

Slza^e^r^to'- "the^ -^ -T^^se ^^ ? the 

7 .^^n^ led^ of Poke-o'Moonshine, past Augur 
Lake o Keefeville 23 miles distant. West it 
w?nds up over the mountain pass, to Keen, i^ nules 
Cascad?Lakes, i8 miles, and out across the plam of 

''^it'^^lZyt^^et:! g^?t Hill, which is the 
we^sf sidTo'nJrricane Mountain, - ^nl- from Eli za- 
bethtown and 2y, east of Keene Centre. ^^V^^^J 
about 7o. Harvey Willey, propnetoi. P. <^^^l^^^ 
o-iif- aHpw westerlv is magnihcent. A 4-miie trciii 
Ws tX top of^&n^^^^ Forratej see appendix. 

Keene Valley shows the loveliest combination of 
nniet vallev and wild mountain scenery, o. any sec 
Son of the Achrondacks, if notindeedof ourcontment 
'Sou-h it from the south, come thesparkhngAvateis 
^f the Au Sable flowing quietly along beneath oyer- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



141 



raceways to where, among the spray and foam of the 
cataract, it thunders and rumbles and roars as if 
angry with its prison walls ; then out between the 
dark ledges through the northern portals and away to 
Ausable l^orks where it joins its sister from the great 




KEENE VALLEY, SOUTH FROM BROOK KNOLL LODGE. 

Indian Pass above. About six miles from the head 
(south end) of the valley the road fronr Elizabethtown 
comes m on the east. South of this road we follow 

ZouAfhT'^u ""^ "^i^-^" "^""'^^^y ^^^k and forth 
tnrough the vallev, noting as we eo some of thf. 

• beauties that have'lent sucg a charm fo'tScality- 

sweet, restful, shady groves of water-maples, great 

massy drooping elms, clumps of alders fringin| the 

river brink and great canopies of native grape-vines 

clasping the huge rocks in loving embrLe^or fes 

tooned on the sturdy trees through which open ud 

k.ng vistas of meadow-land with\ background of 

mountain-green, and above all, the summits^of naked 

rock. On every side the mountains shut us in risine 

abruptly up out of the valley's floor instead if with 

the usual gradual curve of mountains from a plain 

are bS^ihri'^lf ^^""?" "^^^^^"^^ '^^' ^^^e lowlands 
are but the bottom of some ancient lake whose outlet 
may be looked for either on right or left of the castel 
lated bluff that centrally fills the vallev just no?th of 
where the Elizabethtown road comes in. Picturesqii 



142 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



"bits" are found everyAvhere. The Avaterfalls are 
varied as the shifting forms of the kaleidoscope, many 
deserving particular attention. They are too numer- 
ous to mention, too wild and varied to be described. 
They must be seen to be appreciated. If a guide be 
wanted for these short excursions, none more com- 
petent or entertaining can be foimd than the veteran 
explorer, "Old mounnain Phelps" who knows 
wilderness ways by instinct, and talks with the ele- 
ments as with familiar friends, but whose ripening 
years have caused him, regretfully, 
to yield to y^ounger heads and limbs 
the long tramps through valley and 
over mountain heights in which he 
once delighted. See him at any rate, 
for a cordial welcome and pleasant 
hour is certain to be the result. He 
was born in Vermont, in iSi6, from 
which he came to the Adirondacks 
when 14 years of age. He had a great 
love for the woods and took to them /j 
' ' when deer and speckled trout were m 
as plenty as mosquitoes in a damp ^ ' 
dav in Jul v." In 1849 he made his 
first trip to' the top of Marcy, passing °^^ mountain phelps. 
out over Haystack around the head of Panther Gorge 
and to the summit, descending near where the main 
trail now rvms, being the first man to get to the top 
from the east. He has made a valuable map of the 
wild country around, a section of which is given here- 
with, is a prized and regular contributor to a local 
paper, and has written a voluminous treatise on the 
Adirondack lakes and mountains, trees, birds, beasts, 
etc. , which shows the close observer and enthusiastic 
student of nature. The most perfect "picture" 
of the valley is that seen from Split Rock or from 
Prospect Hill, the latter being near the home of " Old 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Mountain Phelps" and easily accessible. The most 

comprehensive view, is probably one from Monroe 

12 3 4 5 6 7 8 




KEENE VALLEY FROM PROSPECT HILL. 

I Noon Mark: 2 Dix; 3 Dial; 4 Nippletop; 5 Snow; 6 Wolfs Jaws; 
7 Rooster's Comb; 8 Marcy. 

Holt's outlook, on the west side near Brook Knoll 
It shows almost the entire floor of the valley and 
nearly all of its cottages and hotels. 

The Estes House is on the east side of the river 
at the west foot of Prospect Hill. It will now accom- 
modate 50. J. H. Estes, proprietor. This is the only 
boardmg house in Keene Valley from which Mount 
Marcy is visible. See appendix for rates. 

Keene Valley (village) is one mile from Prospect 
Hill and about 3 mJles from the head of the valley. 
1 he Post Office is here, church, public hall and several 
stores with^the usual variety of pastoral supplies. 

Tlie Adirondack House stands on rising ground 
at the west side of the village. Solomon Kelley, pro- 
prietor. THe original house, built in 1882, has been 
enlarged until now it has capacity for 200 guests It 
has bath-rooms, with hot and cold water on every 
floor, electric bells and open fireplaces in about 20 of 
the principal rooms. The house commands a com- 



M^d'< 






■''^r^^ 



Mml ' 






mi. ' 






W 




THE ADIRONDACKS. I45 

prehensive view of the village and mountains and the 
valley extending north and south. Double piazzas 
and one glass-enclosed observatory form admirable 
vantage ground for observation. There is a telegraph 
office here, and mail delivery twice daily during the 
season. A conduit from a mountain spring brings 
pure water, which is carried through pipes to every 
floor. The table is wholesome and makes a special 
feature of fresh cream and milk, eggs and butter and 
fresh vegetables from the hotel farm. The sanitary 
provisions are believed to be perfect. It may be of 
interest to some to note that there are no less than five 
city physicians owning and occupying cottages here 
at Keene Valley during the season. For tennis, 
croquet or the distinctively American game, ample 
grounds are provided. Those who go into camp can 
obtain camping necessaries here. Respectful atten- 
tion marks the service of this house from proprietor 
down, and a disposition to please and satisfy all 
reasonable desires in visitors, entitles it to public 
favor. Tlie Regular Stage delivers guests at the 
hotel, but those who can send notice in advance are 
advised by the proprietor to do so, and they will be 
met by the hotel carriage at train or boat at Westport, 
from which point they may be conveyed direct to the 
hotel, or take time for meals, or night, if desired, at 
Elizabethtown. Those who ride or drive — and by the 
way riding is a popular amusement along the level 
roads and .sequestered ways of Keene Valley — will find 
good saddle horses and spring buckboards (the easiest 
riding mountain wagon in the world) at command. 
Stages for Au Sable Lake leave morning and after- 
noon. Fare for round trip, $1.25. 

Tlie Ne"w Taliawus House stands at the south 
end of the village. George W. Egglefield, proprietor. 
This is practically a new house, the old portion, which 
became so familiar tr visitors years ago, having been 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I47 

moved away and an imposing structure reared in its 
place. The cut copied from the architect's plan which 
was modified somewhat, fairly represents the new 
house. It has a frontage of 150 feet. The office, par- 
lors, dining room and billiard room will have open 
fireplaces. Open fireplaces will also be in a number 
of the sleeping rooms. The sanitary arrangements 
have been looked to carefully and believed to be per- 
fect. Modern conveniences go with the new hotel, in- 
cluding baths with hot and cold water. A feature — 
always popular where young people gather — is the 
Tahawus House Theatre, 91x36 feet, with stage and 
all accessories for amateur theatricals. A ten-pin 
alley, base ball ground and tennis court afford ample 
facilities for healthful physical culture. Teams from 
the Tahawus House will meet giiests at Westport, 
when notice is sent in advance, and carry through 
without change to destination. The proprietor is also 
agent for the rent and sale of several cottages, among 
them the picturesque Brook Knoll. For price of 
board and additional particulars see appendix. 

Flume Cottage stands at the entrance to Wash- 
bond's Flume, about a mile south of the village, com- 
manding an extended view of the valley north and 
east. Capacity 35. Martin Bahler, A.M., jDroprietor. 
Prof. Bahler is a graduate of Rutgers College, and 
prinicpal of a flourishing young ladies' seminary, at 
vSummit, N. J., and, as summer landlord here, has 
made it a delightful place of rest for such as enjoy a va- 
cation in the mountains. Entrance is hedged about 
with difficulties that make it charmingly unconvention- 
al as adiouse of entertainment, and as a consequence, 
rather the thing to be able to address your letters 
from Flume Cottage. Transients are not desired. A 
total stranger will need some reference. If a Hebrew', 
do not apply. From being a private cottage, first 
sought by the owner for vacation rest, it has grown to 



I4S 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



its present proportions, A guest speaks of it as " an 
ideal summer home, where food is of prime quahty, 
and the rooms are well furnished and kept in first- 
class order." Another mentions Flume Cottage as a 
" romantic home, where comforts unexpected in a 






mountain region are found, and the charms of music 
and the cheerful intercourse of a refined home-circle 
enliven the dullness of a stormy day." Professor 
Bahler is noted for his tramps, and is in his element 
when climbing breezy heights or acting as guide in 
exploring expeditions with those possessed of like af- 
finities. For rates, etc. , see appendix. Maple Grove 
Mountain House is the title given originally to a 
picturesque farm-house on the road near Flume Cot- 
tage, and later transferred to a more commodious 
building erected on higher ground close by. Accom- 
modations can here be found for 40 guests. Rates 
given on application. Henry Washbond, proprietor. 
St. Hubert's Cottage stands against the face of 
the hiil that looks north, centrally, from the head of 
Keene Valley 23^2 iiiiles from the village. It is under 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I49 

the same management"as St. Hubert's Inn and forms 
a part of the Inn's equipment, affording a number of 
desirable rooms and accommodations for early and 
late guests. 

St. Hubert's Inn stands on Keene Heights a half 
a mile south of the cottage, on the spot occupied by 
the Beede House, burned in 1S90. Beede & Hougli- 
ton, proprietors. The growth of business here has 
been remarkable and seemingly without effort on the 
part of its founders. Visitors coming here years ago 
found the old hunter, Smith Beede and his son Or- 
lando, who had himself in those early days become 
noted as hunter and guide. The small house occu- 




^=L -^ ... '-^"" '■.:f'V','.":,<i,/ry/' ''<0 









ST. HUBERT S COTTAGE. 



pied then became a noted resort, much too small for 
the accommodation of would-be guests, and in 1877 a 
plain but roomy hotel was built on the plateau above. 
In the spring of 1886 it was enlarged to double its 
former capacity, to be totally destroyed by fire in 
March of 1890. The present handsome structure was 
immediately planned and a part completed and opened 
for guests the beginning of the season. The new 



.^sw^^r 



■•-;:^^v-''\-'^v'''--^ 



'•4y 






^'■^'■^%SiilPf 













ST. Hubert's inn. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I5I 

hotel is very complete in drrangements. The main 
])uilding forms two faces of an octagon. A third 
face, which it is proposed in time to build, is enclosed 
as a tennis court. A continuation of the floor, gives 
entrance to a building containing a spacious assembly 
room where magazines and light literature will be 
found, with curios, photographs, and illustrated 
books of surrounding scenery. The Inn is three 
stories in height with pleasant, large -win do wed rooms, 
many of them en suite, with ample piazzas and bal- 
conies at various points along the front reached 
through doors opening from the upper rooms. A 
spacious parlor and dining room, a large office, tele- 
graph office, post-office (Beede'S), reception, reading 
and smoking rooms occupy the main floor. It has 
electric bells and steam heat, and is lighted 
with gas. There are open fire-places in the 
offices and main hall, parlor and dining-rooms, and 
in a number of the sleeping rooms. It is furnished 
in modern style, luxuriously and artistically. The 
decorations are simple, but in good taste. Heavy 
tapestry and hanging curtains in place of doors be- 
tween the public rooms, give an air of cozy comfort 
quite attractive. The purest mountain water is 
brought into the house, and the drainage believed to 
be as perfect as possible. For rates and additional 
particulars see appendix. The proprietors need no 
introduction. A generous liberality marked the man- 
agement of the Beedes from the beginning. The tm- 
conventional character of the entertainment, with the 
general freedom of the guests to the best of every- 
thing that could be had, made the place very popular 
from ine nrst, and tiie same general principles con- 
tributed to the success of the house when the sole 
management devolved on the present senior member 
of the firm. The junior memb<3r, Mr. Houghton, 
who has a genius for making friends, has been identi- 



152 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

fied in some capacity with the management of the 
Inn ever since the opening, coming here with val- 
uable experience had in Boston and among White 
Mountain hotels. 

Stages to Westport, run morning and after- 
noon, to connect with trains and boats. Fare $2.50. 
To An Sable Lake, morning and afternoon. Fare 
50 cents; round trip 75 cents. Saddle horses (and 
Mr. Beede knows a good piece of horse-flesh when he 
sees it), carriages, and mountain wagons for extended 
excursions, can be had here on application. 

The " Inn " stands on land 277 feet higher than the 
valley, — 1,240 feet above tide. The outlook is superb. 
On the East is Hopkins Peak and the Giant of the 
Valley; South — a little to the east — is " Noon Mark." 
Resagonia Mountain is in the southwest, its ser- 
rated outline suggesting its local name of "Saw-teeth." 
East of this is the round, knob-like crest, known as 
"Indian Head," which, sphinx-like, looks out over 
the waters of the Lower Au Sable Lake. Mount Col- 
vin rises beyond, sweeping back towards the south 
and east,, to its sharp, clean-cut summit. 

"Wmdytorow, the high, round-topped hill at the 
north-cast commands a wonderfully fine prospect of, 
not only this upper section but also of, the entire 
stretch of Keene Valley toward the north. It is the 
one view that must not be missed. Roaring; 
Brook Falls are at the east, the head of the clift: 
over which they break in sight on the side of the 
Giant, about a mile distant. The water here makes a 
descent of 300 feet in a succession of cascades, hardly 
touching at each step except to gather for the next 
succeeding plunge, then flashes swiftly down the 
almost perpendicular rock for the last fifty feet, 
through a trough worn out by its action, then out, in 
pretty little falls and dashes, to join the Au Sable. 

Cliapel Pond is about 2 miles distant in a deep 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 53 

gorge, southwest of the Giant, with perpendicular 
walls on either side. It is a half-mile long, perhaps 
one-fourth that in width. The dark surroundings 
give an impressive air to this lonely sheet, and make 
it seem more fitting as a place for solemn meditation 
than for angler's sport. It is 1,602 feet above tide. 
Tlie Giant's Washtbowl is on the side of the Giant, 
500 feet above. You can stand on The Washbowl's 
edge and toss a stone over into Chapel Pond. Chapel 
Pond Road leads east along the side of the gorge, 
to Etiba Mills, at the head of Pleasant Valley ; thence 
south through Schroon Valley. The road is good, 
considering the country traversed, and between the 
two valleys is exceedingly wild and picturesque. A 
day can be profitably spent in making this excursion. 

If you would attend divine service of a Sunday, 
you will be made welcome at " Felsenheim," a little 
chapel just north of the Inn. 

The Adirondack Mountain Reserve is 
that tract of country lying south of St. Hubert's, in- 
cluding within its limits the Au Sable Lakes and the 
great mountains surrounding them and extending 
westerly to taKc in a part of Mount Marcy. The 
Association is incorporated under the laws of New 
York, with the following officers: Wm. G. Neilson, 
president; S. Sidney Smith, secretary; E. I. H. Howell, 
treasurer. The board of trustees are Robert W. De For- 
est, S. Sidne}' Smith, C. C. Cuyler and Frederick J. 
Stimson, of New York, and Wm. G. Neilson, Rich- 
ard C. Dale and Edward I. H. Howell, of Philadel- 
phia. W. W. Brown is the superintendent in charge. 

The declared objects of the association are, the 
preservation of the forests, lakes and streams in their 
natural beauty ; the restocking of the water with fish ; 
the protection of game and rendering more ac- 
cessible, by roads and trails, points of interest 
within its domains. Cutting green timber, peeling 



154 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



bark, or defacing the property of the company ni any 
manner is forbidden. On Sundays, boats will not be 
rented at the Lakes, nor will goods be sold by the 
agents of the company. No malt or spirituous liquors 
will be sold on the company's reserve at any time. 
Hunting will not be permitted at present. Fishing is 
allowed only by special permit. Some of the rules es- 
tablished by the A. M. R. may seem over-rigid; but 
the fact that members themselves are bound as 
rigidly as the veriest stranger, is reply enough to 
those who would suggest anything bvit the best of 
motives, and the objects are to be commended by all 
right-minded persons who may not consider fishing 
and the taking of animal life as the only pleasurable 
sensations to be experienced here among nature's 
ennobling scenes. 

A number of picturesque cottages south St. Hubert's 
belong to the "A. M. R." and are occupied by mem- 
bers during the season. The Rustic Ga te is the 

~~~ entrance 
to the re- 
serve. At 
the gate- 
house, 
photo- 
graphs 
and c u - 
rios are to 
be found, 
and a 
pamphlet 
giving 
over 5 (J 
e X c u r - 

MT. COLVIN. INDIAN HEAD. MT. RESAGONIA. sloUS, iu- 

cluding the principal mountain trails. Tlie Road 
to Au Sable Lake was constructed by the A. M. R. 




THE ADIRONDACKS 



155 



and is the best road in the Adirondacks, affording 
one of the most delightful drives. Toll is charged 
as follows: two-horse carriage, $1 ; single rig, 50 cents; 
horse and rider, 25 cents. A pedestrian may go free. 
The receipts go for the maintainance of the road, for 
making trails ud the mountains and for other improve- 
ments. 

Lower Au Sable Lake is Swiss-like in its beauty. 
It is about one mile long, narrow like a river, and ex- 
tends north and south between Resagonia, or ' ' Saw- 
teeth," Mountain on the west, and Mt. Colvin that rises 
steeply on the east to a sharp ridge, nearly 2000 feet 
above. There is no trail along its sides, which are 
almost impassable. Indian Face looks out over tfie 
water on the east, equaled in its imposing strength 

only by the 
great stone face 
of the White 
Mountains. The 
view from In- 
dian Head i s 
w o n d e r full y 
fine. Rainbow 
Falls, in the 
gorge over 
across the outlet 
and Ribbon 
Falls hanging 
down over the 
same cliff a 
little deeper in should be seen — the two, divided 
strands of the stream, which here come down off from 
the Gothics. Boats, camp supplies and camping 
privileges can be secured at the boat house here at the 
end of the road. In going through the lake ask your 
guide to point out the "Ice Cave" where ice is found 
the year round. It may not be worth while to enter ; 










SOUTH FROM INDIAN HEAD. 



I5fi 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



it is Simply an overhanging ledge ; muddy and dark. 
From the head of the Lower Lake a trail leads a mile 
throtigh the woods to the Upper Lake. 

Upper Au Sable Lake is nearly two miles long, 
and a half mile wide. Without being the wildest, it 




UPPER AU SABLE LAKE FROM THE INLET. 

I Haystack; 2 Saddleback; 3 Gothic; 4 Resagonia. 

is, perhaps, the most picturesque of all Adirondack 
lakes. It reflects, in its waters, a number of the most 
striking mountain-peaks, which, seen from this direc- 
tion, are varied and extremely beautiful. Some show 
thickl}^ wooded slopes; others are naked rock, seamed 
and scarred. On the east is Boreas Motmtain, a 
long, heavily w^ooded ridge, terminating at the north 
in Mount Colvin, and extending south about lo miles. 
At the west is Bartlett Mountain, a high ridge; over 
its south slope is seen the sharp cone of Haystack, 
which hides Marcy, the highest 
of all. Toward the north are 
Basin, Saddleback, the Gothics 
and Resagonia — a grand circle 
of giants, whose sides are 
marked with the course of 
mountain torrents and the 
white, glistening path of the 
avalanche. The shores of the 
lake are thickly wooded to the water's edge. 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 



157 



Throughout the warm weather this is favorite camp- 
ing-ground with those who come to enjoy beauty and 
an unfettered life of the woods. The Camps are 
mostly open in front to face the campfire, and are 



L 3/4 y^ y^ 

ONE MILE S<ALE CHAiBetCr 

/U 1^53 Ft 



-^^ 



fVll-v, 







-^/^^rHE SLOi^OH 



C AMP5 

OM 

IJPPfR A^^ABtL [akE. 



built and owned by the authorized guides of Keeiie 
Valley by authority of the owners of the Reserve. 
No one will be allowed to occupy camps here unless ac- 
companied by an authorized guide. Twenty-five cents 
l)er night will be charged each visitor for the use of a 
camp. The Authorized Guides of Keene Valley 
are bound by rules of their own making, and 



158 



THE ADIRONDACKS 



membership may be accepted by the public as 
a guarantee of capabiHty. Members- Charles Rp.rlt 
George F. Beede, Harry^Beede, Oren E Beede ioraci 
A H.^Tr' J^^? Brown George W. Hanmer,' MelvS 
A Hathaway, Le Grand Heald, Fred E. Lamb C 
Wesley Lamb James Owens, Frank C. Parker (For 

C TiambuirCh'^/^^^P^' ^^^^^ ^^ Stetson. Arthur 
L-. irumbull, Charles E. Trumbull, Melville T Trum- 
bull. Address at Keene Valley. ^^i^^e j . i rum- 
Camp Supplies can be procured at the hotels If 
your stay m camp is to be short it is best to ask your 

wm dT^>!^ ^'"' "P ^^^'^^ "^^y b^ i^ecessary?whicrhe 
will do chargmg you ordinarily for the same at hotel 

Jems. ^""'^^ ^'^^ ''''^^ ^3 per day ; camp rent, 25 

The ascent of Mount Marcy from Keene Vallev is 

generally by way of the Au'^Sable Lakes, ^e 4y 




r Allen; 



THE GREAT PEAKS FROM THE SOUTH. 

Skylight; 3 Marcy; 4 Panther Gorge; 5 Haystack; 
6 Basni : 7 Saddleback ; 8 Gothic. "^ "^ ' 



leadmg up the Inlet by boat to Marcy Brook thence 
along the west side of Bartlett Mountam through 

to^'T^f ;;^?''^'''' ^.i^""]^^ ^^f ^°^^^^ ^^^^ «*■ t^ie mountain 
to Lake rear-ot-the-Clouds, for which see page i-^n 

Soutn of Au Sable Lake a trail leads out (6 miles to 

J^lk Lake thence 5 miles to the road running west to 

Taliawvis (see gateway No. 7), andRoofs. (5 miles east.) 

THe Great Peaks are grandest from near where 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



159 



the Boreas River, one of the main tributaries of the 
Hudson River, is crossed by this east and west road. 
A long line of giants, they stand across the northern 
sky, grim and rugged, presenting in reverse, though 
wilder form, almost the same outline as when seen 
from Lake Placid. 

Gateway No. 4 (Port Henry). Stage leaves 

Port Henry at 
7:30 A. M. daily 
(Sunday except- 
ed), passing Mo- 
riah Centre, 
Pine Ridge Cot- 
tage and North 
Hudson, arrives at Schroon River at 11 :3o. Return- 
ing leaves Schroon River at i, arrives at Port Henry 
at5:3or. M. Fare$i.25. Gateway No. 5. Crown 
Point. Trains on the C. P. I. R. discontinued. 




Gateway No. 6 (Fort Ticonderoga) leads to Ticon- 
deroga (village) and to Baldwin at the north end of 
Lake George (5 miles), where steamers are taken for 
Caldwell. Ticonderoga is about midway between 
the two lakes. (Hotel Burleigh is the leading house). 
Stages (S. C. Bailey line) run daily, leaving Ticon- 
deroga at 1:30 p. M., via Trinity Lakes (Paragon, 
Pyramid and Paradox), arriving at Schroon Lake at 
6:30. Returning leave Schroon Lake at 6:30 a. m. 
reach Ticonderoga at 11:30. Fare $2. 50 either way. 
Paragon Lake is 7 miles west of Ticonderoga in a 
narrow defile of the mountains on the divide between 
Champlain waters and the waters of the Hudson. 
The lake is about 3 miles long, narrow and closely 
pressed by its precipitous shores. Paragon Lake 
House is near the east end of Paragon Lake. Geo. A. 
Houghtalin, proprietor. Capacity, 30. Rates $2 per 
day; $10 per week. For Pyramid Lake see page 17 3-1;. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Luzerne, Sciiroon Lake, North Creek and 
THE "Ruined Village." 



S 

it 



ARATOGA is Gateway No. 

the Adirondack Railroad 

strikes the 



7. From this point 
runs north until 




Hudson River 
at Corinth, 
thence u p 
along its west 
bank to North 
Creek 57 miles 
distant. 

Luzerne is 
situated at the 
junction of the 
Hudson and 
Sacandaga 

rivers, twenty-two miles north of 
Saratoga. It is inclosed by rounded 
hills, heavily wooded to their sum- 
mits, save here and there a break 
where some ledge looks out on 
the valley below. On the west are 
the Kayaderosseras mountains ; 
on the east, the Luzerne range, 
that has its rise at Lake George, 
and ends where the Hudson, turn- 
ing east, breaks through between 
it and Mount McGregor on the south, where Grant, 
the soldier, came to die. Toward the north the moun- 
tains are broken, rocky and picturesque. These are 



l62 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the ontreaching spurs of the Adirondacks, from which 
the Hudson comes flowing quietly along to its union 
with the Sacandaga at Ti-sz-ran-do, ' ' the meeting of 
the waters." P'^rom this point down the river to 
Jessup's Landing, are six miles of still running water, 
then the river sweeps around almost north again and 
makes a plunge of 60 feet over Palmer's Falls. Lu- 
zerne is on the old Indian trail from the great villages 
of the Mohawks to the head of Lake George. Here 
King Hendrick and his braves encamped when on 
their way to join Johnson at Lake George in 1755. 
liuzerne Lake is a pearl set in emerald, lying at 
quite an elevation above the village, a crystal drop on 
the hillside, held there by a narrow embankment 
through which the outlet finds its way, and after 
amusing itself among sets of water-wheels passes 
out into the Hudson and to the sea. 

Tlie Wayside Inn is just north of the village, 
facing the lake. Capacity 200. E. C. King, manager. 
The Wayside is an imposing structure with numer- 
ous gables, porches, piazzas and balconies. The in- 
terior is in keeping with the exterior — roomy, ram- 
bling, airy; with pleasant office, dining-room and par- 
lor, and with a charming outlook over the lake and 
forest, and the rolling meadow-land around. It has, con- 
nected with it a number of cottages which caii be rented 
for the season, affording desirable accommodations 
separate from the more public quarters of the Inn. 
There is a telegraph office here and an excellent livery 
within call. Guests are transferred to and from all 
trains free. Mr. King, the manager, is energetic, and 
that he is efficient is proven by the popularity of the 
house which finds difficulty in providing accommoda- 
tions sufficient for its would-be guests. Those de- 
siring rooms during July or Augaist will do well to 
make application in advance, as the Wayside is the 
only hotel of interest left to the summer visitor in this 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



163 



section. For rates and additional particulars see ap- 
pendix. 

Nortn of Luzerne the road runs along the river, 
at times crowded close against its brink as the valley 
narrows down and the mountains grow more abrupt 
and precipitous. Riverside is 50 miles from Sara- 




toga. There is little to interest here, save the grace- 
ful suspension bridge thrown across from shore to 
shore over which the stage road leads to Chestertown 
and Schroon Lake. 

Cliestertown is a thriving little village six miles 
east of Riverside. Its environment is picturesque, 
with lakes and valleys and rolling hills that rise in 
places into considerable mountains. The roads about 
are specially picturesque and varied and the popular 
amusements are riding and driving. The lakes and 
small ponds near by afford good bass fishing, while 
partridges and the smaller game are found in their 
season in the adjacent woods. Tlie Chester House 
is on high ground in the village. It is three stories 
high, with pleasant piazzas, fronted by a nice grove 
of maples. It is popular tmder the management of 
Harry S. Downs, who, with considerable experience 
in the business, adds a pleasant presence, an obliging- 
disposition, and youthful zeal and enterprise, This 




l64 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

house will care for about 1 50 guests. For rate^ 3e 
appendix. 

' Pottersville, a village of a single street, is six miles 
northeast of Riverside, near the foot of Schroon Lake. 
Its surroundings back from the narrow valley are ex- 
ceedingly wild, rugged and picturesque. Potters- 
ville Hotel is here by the side of Trout Brook. John 
B. Wells, proprietor. This is the regular dining place for 

passengers going or 
coming, and furnishes 
a wholesome and most 
substantial meal. The 
house is comfortably 
furnished, and affords 
pleasant accommodations to those who may prefer 
this to the northern extremity of the lake. Trout 
Brook, affords very good sport, while fishing grounds 
on river and lake are easily reached. Mr. Wells is a 
young man, full of energy, and brings to the busi- 
ness experience of value from the old Wells House on 
Schroon Lake. For rates and particulars see ap- 
pendix. 

Tlie Lieavitt Stage Line, running between River- 
side and Schroon Lake, is not unworthy of special 
notice. The ride affords a pleasant change from the 
cars, giving variety, without continuing long enough 
to become wearisome, followed by the halt for dinner 
and the race to the steamboat in the open wagons. 
The coaches tised here are of the well-known Concord 
build. The stock is first-class, and the drivers are of 
the most reliable, Eugene Leavitt, proprietor of the 
line, is considered one of the best whips in the 
country. Six-horse, tally-ho stages run to the main 
trains, and lighter wagons connect morning and 
evening, with the "sleeper" at Riverside. Specials 
may be secured for any service required by arrange- 
ment with the manager. 



■ -: THE ADIRONDACK^. 1 65 

Schroon Lake is one of the most popular semi- 
wilderness resorts in the country. It is surrounded 
on all sides by mountains, not high but wild and 
rugged, and broken into curious fragmentary masses 
around its south end, growing smoother as you go 
north. It is nearly ten miles in length, about two 
wide, and divided in two nearly equal portions by ap- 
proaching points at the narrows. It receives the wa- 
ters of Paradox and other lakes and streams on the 
north, and empties through Schroon River into the 
Hudson River at Thurman. The shores are low, re- 
ceding in gentle slopes lor a distance, then rise up 
into the mountains surrounding it. It is reached 
usually by the Adirondack Railroad, from Saratoga 
to Riverside, thence by stage to the outlet.. The Steam- 
boat Landing at the outlet is something less than a 
mile from Pottersville. Here the Steamer '* Ef- 
lingliain," Captain Sam Russell, waits the coming 
stage. As the little steamer swings slowly around 
and starts away on her nine mile trip through the 
Lake we see that the mountains are all around, and, 
although other lake gems may have a grander setting, 
there are few with greater variety and none with 
lovelier shores. On the southwest are the great rough 
mountain ribs and knobs that gather around Potters- 
ville ; toward .the north they soften down for some 
distance ; then beyond we see the sharp outlines of 
the Blue Ridge, and catch glimpses of Motmt Dix, the 
Dial and the numberless, nameless peaks that cluster 
around Tahawus — the cloud splitter — seen at one 
point, faint and blue with distance. 

"Wateli Rock Hotel is on the east side of the 
Lake 4 miles from the outlet. Capacity 125. George 
Cecil, proprietor. P. O. Adirondack. The house 
stands in a luxuriant grove of mixed forest trees that 
extends towards the north along the lake and back- 
ward to the mountains. Its environment bespeak 
thrift and enterprise. It has connected with it several 



i.'^kicl - -r ^ 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 67 

cottages, some of them occupied by their owners, 
while others form a part— and a very delightful part— of 
the hotel accommodations. It is richly furnished with 
a general fullness and completeness suggestive of sub- 
stantial, lasting qualities, rather than of temporary 
occupancy. There are summer-houses among the 
trees and seduded walks through the woods. There 
are croquette grounds and a tennis court. There are 
saddle horses and horses with dainty or substantial 
carriages as the visitor wills. There are pleasure 
boats, fishing boats and a steamboat here, any or all 
at the service of those desiring them. The table is 
excellent — in short the general character of the house 
is nice and wholesome with a suggestion of solid ex- 
clusiveness that is rather attractive than otherwise. 
Mr. Cecil has traveled extensively, and, appreciating 
the requirements of the many-sided public, has ap- 
plied his knowledge to the business with credit to the 
house and advantage to guests. Steamer con- 
nects with stage for railroad, at foot of the lake. Fare 
50 cents. For rates of board, etc., see appendix. 

Adirondack the little hamlet south of Watch 
Rock, is jjicturesque, and fragrant with the odorous 
smell of tanbark which reveals its principal busi- 
ness. It is spoken of generally as Mill Brook, al- 
though known in the postal department by its name 
of "Adirondack." 

Taylor House and cottages are at Lake View 
Point, on the west shore of the lake opposite Watch 
Rock. Capacity about 175. C. F. Taylor & Son, pro- 
prietors. P. O. Taylors-on-Schroon. The accom- 
modations are in the central building which contains 
office, reception rooms, dining room, etc. , and in a 
little village of fifteen or more cottages of various 
designs and sizes grouped among the trees, present- 
ing altogether a very pretty picture. The cottages 
are in part owned by regular guests of the Taylor 
House, others on occasion assigned to transient visit- 



i68 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



ors. The post office is here in one of the cottages and 
with it "notions" of both niasculine and feminine 
nature, literary, photographic and saccharine. The 
house and grounds are lighted by electricity. The 
steamboat lands on all regular trips to and from the 
outlet. Fare 50 cents. The accommodations and 
fare are excellent. For rates see appendix. Ripe 
experience and youthful energy are united in the 
management here. To the untiring devotion of C. F 
Taylor the senior member of the firm in earlier days 
is due perhaps more than to any other man living, 







fenw , a.ci 



^^^^4 



I 



o. * 




TAYLOR HOUSE. 



the impetus that set Scroon Lake on its high road to 
popularity as a summer resort, and no one envies the 
success that has crowned his later ventures. On the 
north side of Lake View Point Ed. Harrigan exem- 
plifies " squatter sovereignty" in a style that his ad- 
mirers would not recognize as of the New York kind. 
At the narrows farther north the heroine of " Mugg's 
Landing" has a modern landing and a pretty cottage. 
Tlie Grove Point House stands on an elevated 
point extending from the west shore near the north 
end of the lake, a half mile from the village of Schrooii 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 169 

Lake. Capacity loo. Capt. W. A. Mackenzie, pro- 
prietor. The house is well furnished, clean and at- 
tractive of itself and picturesque in its surroundings 
and outlook. It is prosperous because its proprietor 
is energetic and withal, obliging. During the winter 









GROVE POINT FROM THE SOUTH. 

he is in the management of "St. Helena-by-the-Sea " 
and after October ist must be addressed at Frogmore 
P. O., Beaufort Co., South Carolina. The steamer 
lands six times daily during the season and 
guests have the privilege of riding to and from the 
village, -fre,©.. There is a good sand beach here with 
bath houses ; tennis court, croquet ground, etc. , and 
boats of different kinds to be hired by the hour, day, 
week orseason. For price of board, etc. , see appendix. 
Schroon Lake I have spoken of in general. 
Schroon Lake in particular means the collection of 
little houses and big hotels at its head. The little 
village is worthy of the best name on record, if beauty 
of location and general appearance entitles one to 
such. The main street through which the rgad runs 
to the north is a fine shaded avenue, the land sloping 
down to the edge of the lake, displaying the whole in 
a very pretty manner. It is a thoroughly wide awake 
town, showing a degree of enterprise that many 
larger places might well be proud of. Daily mails 
are maintained throughout the 5^ear ; the telegraph 
brings it in direct communication with the great 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



171 



cities. The churches are good. The hotel accommo- 
dations first-class, while the enterprise of their pro- 
prietors, together with the fine natural attractions of 
the place, has earned for this a world-wide reputation, 
standing second only to Lake George — ahead of it, 
even, with those who delight to point the rifle or cast 
the fly. The society here is of a refined class, scarcely 
any of the rowdy element finding its way in, for the 
bright skies, the waving fields, the far-reaching for- 
ests, and the grand freedom of the mountains, pos- 
sesses little that is congenial to the tastes of such. 
As the village is approached from the south the most 




: ^t^^^d^^ ^-^''^^~:.r^Ji2£j.L/Ty^^!^X 



12 34 5 

SCHROON LAKE VILLAGE FROM SOUTH. 

I Dock : 2 Ondawa House ; 5 Lake House ; 4 Windsor ; 5 Leland House. 
prominent objects are the hotels — the Leland House, 
on the high ground at the right ; the Schroon Lake 
House, near the water's edge ; over this, the Windsor 
House, and the Ondawa, among the trees at the left 
of the Lake House. 

Tlie Leland House is the leading hotel of 
Schroon Lake. Capacity about 300. C. T. Leland, 
manager. Post Office, Schroon Lake. Two large 
cottages, connected with the main building by an ex- 
tension of the double piazzas at either end, afford re- 
tired quarters for those who may prefer such to the 
more public rooms in the lower building. Within the 
office will be found a branch of the Western Union Tele- 
graph, and news, photograph and fancy goods stand. 
This is one of the few hotels where the main office is 
made the pleasant gathering-place of the lady guests 
of the house. It was built in 1872 and at once became 



172 THE ADIR(^NDACK?. 

popular. It was enlarged in 1S75 and again in 1881, 
and still again in 1888, by the addition of a large 
wing to give a children's dining room, new sleeping 
rooms, etc. The grand dining room was also en- 
larged giving it a seating capacity of 300, and a new 
kitchen built and furnished w4th the modern appli* 
ances. The house is richly furnished, the public 
rooms are attractive with open fireplaces and hard 
wood floors. The sleepmg apartments are provided 
with the best of beds, and their appointments through- 
out in good taste. The cottages contain 12 rooms 
each, furnished on modern plans with bath rooms, 
etc. The sanitary conditions here are believed to be 
perfect — the land, sloping off in all directions, ren- 
dering the question of drainage a simple one. Pure 
water comes to the house through pipes from a moun- 
tain spring. 

The grounds of the Leland House are about five 
acres in extent of grassy lawns shaded by young 
trees and provided with modest little summer houses, 
vine-draped and inviting. On its south front is a 
broad, high piazza, double at the ends ; and, in front 
of this, a grand port-coackare — a pleasant and duly 
appreciated feature of a sunny day. From its com- 
manding position it overlooks the lake in three direc- 
tions — south, east and north, and on the west, the 
village and the hills beyond. An observatory on the 
top of the building is 107 feet above the lake, and 
gives a view of rare beauty and extent, showing the 
full reach of the lake at the south, and a charming 
picture of Schroon Valley toward the north. Every 
requisite necessary for sport can be secured here 
either for hunting or fishing, riding, driving or boat- 
ing generally. The table here is superior, and the 
service all that can be expected — in short, the Leland 
House is an exceptionally good " all round " house. 
C. T. Leland, the manager, has been identified with 
the house for a number of years. Much is expected 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I73-A 

of the name, but there is little doubt but that 
the Leland House will remain where it has stood so 
long — easily in the lead. 

Tlie Ondawa is seen on the left of the dock as we 
approach, among the trees that nearly hide it from 
sight when viewed from the lake. It has capacity for 
about loo guests and is open the year round. For 
rates, etc., see appendix. O'Connor Brothers, pro- 
prietors. On the south side facing the lake are com- 
fortable piazzas looking out on a small park belonging 
to the house, densely shaded with maples and elms 
and shut out from the street by a thick hedge. This 
is one of the oldest houses of the section. It is noted 
for wholesome fare and has been for years a noted 
resort, summer and winter, for Schroon valley sports- 
men. The proprietors are obliging and disposed to 
do everything possible to maintain the good standing 
of the house. 

Dry goods, fancy goods, ladies' furnishing goods, 
jewelry and notions are displayed at the store of 
Peyser & Brother, adjoining the Ondawa on the north. 

Maps, books, photographs of Schroon Lake scenery, 
daily papers, drugs, etc., can be procured at Wm. A. 
Hall & Co 's directly opposite the Ondawa. 

Adirondack Inn (formerly Lake House), stands 
near the dock on the way leading to the Leland House. 
Capacitv about loo. Train & O'Connor, proprietors. 
The "Windsor Hotel, west of the Leland House, 
has capacity for about 60 guests. O. Allard, proprie- 
tor. The Leland Cottage, on Main street, has ac- 
commodations for about 25. J. M. Leland, proprie- 
tor. The Prospect House, also on the main street 
of the village, will provide for 30 guests. J. A. Pitkin 
& Brother, proprietors. The Arlington Cottage, 
just north of the village, is a pleasant boarding house, 
nicely kept, providing for 30 guests. C. C. Whitnej^ 
proprietor. For Rates and other particulars relat- 
ing to the smaller houses see appendix. 



I73-R THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Stag^e leaves daily (Sundays excepted) at 6 : 30 a. m., 
passing Trinityl»akes( Paradox, Pyramid and Para 
gon), arriving at Ticonderoga at 11:30, connecting 
with trains on the D. & H. R. R., and with boat north 
on Lake Champlain and south on Lake George. Re- 
turning leave Ticonderoga at 1:30 p. m., arriving at 
Scrhoon Lake at 6:30. Fare to Pyramid or Paragon 
Lakes $1 . 50 ; to Ticonderoga $2. 50. Round trip tickets 
from Saratoga and other southern points, may be pro- 
cnred at any D. & H. ticket office. The way is exceed- 
ingly picturesque introducing in the circuit of a two- 
day excursion the rugged scenery of the Upper Hudson, 
the half-wild shores of Schroon Lake, a bit of the real 
wilderness and a return through Lake Geoage's famous 
waters. The round trip may also be made in reverse 
order if desired, the time being about the same either 
way. 

Paradox Lake is 4 miles north of Schroon Lake. 
It is about 4 miles in length, extending eastward from 
the Schroon Valley. At the west its shores are 
smoothly rounded, on the east abrupt and rugged. 
Paradox House on the south side, midway of the 
lake, will care for a limited number of guests. Mart 
Smith, proprietor. P. O,, Severence. Paradox P. 
O. is at the east end of the lake. Strangers will not 
be turned away hungry from the farm-house here, if 
they apply for food in the right spirit. 

Pyramid Liake House is 10} o miles from Schroon 
Lake and about the same from Ticonderoga. Orrin 
Harris, proprietor. P. O., Paradox, N. Y. The 
house will provide for 100 guests. For rates see ap- 
pendix. Stage daily (Sundays excepted) to Schroon 
Lake and Ticonderoga. Fare to either place $1.50. 
The house stands on the shore of Pyramid Lake, 
which is exceedingly wild with rugged sides and 
deep waters, quite noted for trout and black bass, 
which have been systematically propagated and held 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I73-C 

for the use of guests of the hotel. In the lake is a 

high rounded island which suggested the name of 

pyramid. Pnaraoli Lake, noted for its big trout, 

lies 4i.< miles through the wilderness south. Those 

who may wish to break the stage ride between Ticon- 

deroga and Schroon Lake are advised to address S. 

C. Bailey, Ticonderoga ( who will furnish light rigs to 

parties of three or more at but little more than stage 

fare), and dine at Pyramid Lake House. 

* -X- ***** 

ScJaroon Valley north of Schroon Lake, with the 
various roads leading towards the east and around 
Paradox Lake, afford delightfully interesting drives. 
Root's Hotel is 9 miles north of Schroon Lake. 
It had an excellent reputation once, but at present 
the accommodations and fare are not such as to at- 
tract the average summer visitor. 

North from Root's for 10 miles stretches the beau- 
tiful Schroon Valley until the gradually approaching 
mountains come together at Deadwater, where 
the waters of Schroon River, now but a mere brook 
gathered from ponds in the notches of the mountains, 
start on their winding way southward. At Euba 
Mills, 3 miles further north, roads diverge— one bear- 
ing toward the right leading down through Pleasant 
Valley, to Elizabethtown, 10 miles (page 135) ; the 
other toward the left, upward through Chapel Pond 
Gorge to Keene Vallev, about six miles distant, (page 
140). Westwardfroni Root's between the mountains 
whose jagged sides come down abruptly to the edges 
of the VaUey, runs the road to the Boreas region, 
Tahawus, Newcomb and Long Lakes. By leavmg 
this road five miles west of Root's and going north- 
ward over a, fairly good road. Elk Lake is reached. 
Northwest from Elk Lake a six-mile trail leads up 
over the Boreas range to Upper Au Sable Lake, for 
which see page 156. 



174 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The Boreas Rivex* is 13 miles west of Root's, 
with huntsman's accommodations in the little house 
found there. A rough road leads north, 6 miles, to 
Boreas Pond, lying in wild hunting territory. Six 
miles west of the Boreas is Tahawus from which 
point a road leads north to " The Ruined Vil- 
lage." 

****** * 

Returning" to Riverside we go up the west 
bank of the river 7 miles to the terminus of the rail- 
road at North Creek 57 miles from Saratoga. This 
is the point of departure for the Adirondack Iron 
Works and Newcomb via Minerva and for Indian 
Lake and the Blue Mountain, Raquette and Long 
Lake region. The American House is a short 
distance from the Station. James P. Owens, proprie- 
tor. The Adirondack Hotel situated some little 
distance south of the station is a good house. Wm. 
H. Baker, Agt., proprietor. 

Stages (or buckboards, the easiest riding carriage 
in the mountains) are taken here for Blue Mountain 
Lake (see page 1 8 7). Parties for Aiden Lair, New- 
comb Lakes, or the section around the Adirondack 
Iron Works, not reached by daily stage, will find it 
advisable to make arrangements for conveyances at 
this point, or by telegraph in advance, to W. V. V. 
Marsh, Supt. , North Creek. By leaving in the morn- 
ing by special conveyance passengers can also connect 
at Blue Mountain Lake with afternoon steamer for 
Raquette Lake — all landings— and with stage for 
Long Lake. 

Aiden Lair is about 17 miles north of North 
Creek. It is quite noted as a hunting and fishing 
region. Aiden Lair Lodge offers accommodations to 
hunter and fisherman. M. F. Cronin, proprietor. 

Tahawus is 12 miles in a northerly direction. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 75 

Tahawus is also at present centered in a single house 
— the Lower Club House belonging to the Adirondack 
Club, whose headquarters are at theUpper Adirondack 
Works. Once there were extensive buildings at this 
place. A long dam across the Hudson flooded the 
valley back to the outlet of Lake Sanford, and barges 
floated between the two villages carrying supplies up 
and bringing the ore down to be carted eastward to 
Lake Champlain over a road built especially for this 
purpose. Meals can be had here or entertainment for 
a night, if the traveller wishes, under the rules of the 
Club, although uninvited visitors are not encouraged. 
A road leads up the west side of the Hudson — here 
called the North River, Five miles up the foot of 
Lake Sanford is reached. This lake is four miles 
long with low marsh}?^ shores, here and there punc- 
tuated by round hills and knobby points. Just above 
the head of Lake Sanford is the "New Forge." 
The building that inclosed the forge is gone now, 
but the stone furnace, forty feet square at its base, 
stands firm and solid as when made. The liistory 
of Adirondack is brief and sad. Messrs. Henderson, 
McMartin and Mclntrie, who, in 1826 owned and 
operated iron-works at North Elba, were shown a 
piece of ore of remarkable purity by an Indian, which, 
he said, came from a place where ' ' water run over 
dam, me find plenty all same." The services of the 
Indian were secured at once, at the rate of two shil- 
lings and what tobacco he could use per day, to con- 
duct them to the place spoken of, where they found, 
as he had said, where the water literally poured 
over an iron dam. A tract of land embracing the 
principal ore beds in that vicinity, was promptly 
secured, forges built, and the road cut from the lower 
works out to Lake Champlain. But the expense of 
transportation to market swallowed all the profits and 
the enterprise proved a financial failure. The work 



1^6 THE ADIRON'DACKS. 

however was persevered in until the death of Mr. 
Henderson, who was killed in 1845 by the accidental 
discharge of his pistol at a place now known as 
Calamity Pond. The body was borne out on the 
shoulders of workmen, and afterwards a beautiful 
monument placed where he fell, bearing the inscrip- 
tion : " Erected by filial affection to the jnemory of 
our dear father, David Henderson, who accident- 
ally lost his life on this spot by the premature dis- 
charge of a pistol, jd Sept., 184s." In the death of 
Mr, Henderson the motive power was removed, and 
three years after his death the works were abandoned. 
There was something gruesome about the Ruined 




ADIRONDACK IN 1 875. 

Village when we approached in our tramp of '73. A 
quarter of a century had passed since the hum of in- 
dustry sounded there. Where once sounded the crash 
of machinery and the shouts of children at play, all 
was still save perhaps the shrill bark of the fox or the 
whir of the startled partridge. Instead of the music 
of voices all was silence, solemn and ghostly. Over 
the mountains and the middle ground hung a dark 
funereal pall of cloud, across which the setting sun 
cast bars of ashen light that fell on the nearer build- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 177 

ings, bringing out their unseemly scars in ghastly re-' 
lief, and lying in strips across the grass-grown street 
which led away into the shadow. On either side 
stood cottages, stained and blackened by time, with 
brofcen windows, doors unhinged, falling roofs and 
crumbling foundations. At the head of the street 
was the old furnace, one chimney still standing, one 
shattered by the thunderbolt in ruins at its feet. The 
water-wheel — emblem of departed power — lay mo- 
tionless, save as piece by piece it fell away. Huge 
blocks of iron, piles of rusty ore, coal bursting from 
the crumbling kilns, great shafts broken and bent, 
rotting timbers, stones and rubbish, lay in one com- 
mon grave, over which loving nature had thrown a 
shroud of creeping vines. Near the centre of the 
village was a large house that at one time accommo- 
dated a hundred boarders, now grim and silent. Near 
by at the left stood the pretty school house, the steps 
worn by many little feet, had rotted and fallen, the 
\vindows were almost paneless, the avails cracked and 
rent asunder where the foundation had dropped 
away, and the doors yawning wide, seemed to say not 
' ' welcome " but ' ' go " — 

" O'er all there hung a shadow and a fear, 
A sense of mysterfr the spirit daunted 
And said as plain as whisper in the ear. 
The place is haunted." 

To-day out little remains of the Ruined Village. All 
but two or three of the buildings that stood in 1S73 
have been removed or destroyed. The ancient school- 
house does duty as a fish hatchery. The old kilns are 
overgrown with vines and shrubbery. The big old 
house, re-arranged and modernized, is a hotel under the 
management of Myron Buttles, Superintendent for 
the Adirondack Club, holders of the territory of the 
old Adirondack Iron Company as a game and fish pre- 
serve for the use of members and friends. The 



1 73 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

rules of the club proclaim it a "close corporation," 
but no one understanding the circumstances can find 
reasonable objection as the stringent regulations 
adopted apply equally to all members, no one being 
permitted to hunt or fish outside the ' season as es- 
tablished by law, or to hunt at all except on regularly 
appointed occasions. The Club Houses at Tahawus 
and here, although primarily intended for the accom- 
modations of club members, will provide fare for the 
chance visitor. Price of accommodations is fixed at 
$3 per day for. all persons except guides and servants, 
and no person not a member of the club or their 
guests, will be entertained for more than a single 
night unless under pressing conditions. Myron But- 
tles, 'the manager, is a walking encyclopedia of fact 
and figures, tireless in the discharge of his duty as 
manager and unremitting in his attention as host. 

From the Ruined Village to Calamity Pond is 5 
miles ; to Lake 'Golden 7 miles ; to top of Marcy 12 
miles. See pages 127-130. 

Lake Henderson is half a mile north of the 
Ruined Village. It is two miles long with its outlet 
near the center, on the east. From its head a trail 
leads to the Preston Ponds, the head of Cold River, 
which flows west into Raquet^e River below Long 
Lake. Toward the north we look up a gradual slope 
through Indian Pass ; the dark green sides of Mcln- 
tire coming steeply down on the east side with the 
perpendicular cliffs of mighty Wallface on the west. 

Indian Pass is among the grandest features of 
the Adirondack Mountains. The distance through 
from the Ruined Village to Adirondack Lodge is 
about II miles. By boat through Lake Henderson 
reduces the walking distance about a mile. From the 
head of Lake Henderson, for three miles, the rise is 
gradual, then we begin to climb, crossing the rivulet 
back and forth as we go upward, making long de- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I79 

totirj? to the right, at times, ascending the mountain 
some distance, and following a level stretch along its 
sides until the wildly dashing torrent is reached once 
more ; then upward and onward, the path growing wild- 
er and more difficult as we proceed, the brooklet bound- 
ing from rock to rock, now lost in some dark cavern, 
now trickling down among the huge -boulders or 
gurgling in muffled music beneath our feet, anon 
bursting out, to rest a'moment in some mossy basin, 
pure crystal in an emerald setting, on which float 
fairy ships of leaves. We get occasional glimpses 
through the trees of Great "Wallface, appearing 
perhaps but a shade or two darker than the blue 
above until at last, through, an opening it comes 
out; vast, grand, overwhelming immeasurable ! The 
eye sees it hanging in mid-air, a cloud, an outline, 
a color and bows beneath its awful weight. The 
giant pines that fringe its brow seem but bristling 
hair the great rifts that scar its sides, but a 
faint tracery of lines where cool gray shadows 
or yellow sunlight, mayhap race swiftly across 
or lay in slant bars along its misty face. 
But the highest point is not reached yet; we are 
just entering at the lower gate, and for nearly a mile 
it is a continuous climb over great chaotic masses of 
jagged rocks thrown down by some convulsion of 
Nature, now on some huge fragment that seems ready 
to topple over into the gulf below, now where hang 
dripping mosses and sprawling roots — stooping, 
crawling, clinging to projecting limbs, climbing 
slippery ledges, upward all the time ! At last we 
stand on Lookout Point. Close by rises that grand 
wall a thousand feet. The bottom of the gorge is 
three hundred feet below. The cliff reaches out 
north and south, majestic, solemn and oppressive in 
its nearness. A long line of great fragments have 



THE ADTRONDACKS. iSl 

fallen, year by year, and now lie at its foot. On every 
side huge caverns yawn and mighty rocks rear their 
heads where He who rules the earthquake cast them 
centuries ago. Along back, down the gorge w^e look, 
to where — five miles away and 1,300 feet below — is 
Lake Henderson, a shining drop in the bottom of the 
great emerald bowl. As we have risen, the sweet 
gurgling music of the infant Hudson has died away. 
Then, as we pass onward, comes the familiar sound 
once more — faintly at first, then more distinctly — the 
singing of little waters ; first trickling over rocks, then 
dancing downward, increased in volume by tributary 
streams from tho slopes of Mclntire — dancing away 
toward the north — the impetuous Au Sable, t\\dn 
brother at birth and rocked in the same moun- 
tain cradle with the mighty Hudson that goes 
rolling southward to the sea. Does it pay to 
go through Indian Pass ? I answer a thousand 
times yes. It costs a little exertion, but the ex- 
periences and emotions of the day will come back in a 
flood of recollections that lift the soul a little higher 
and makes one bettor for a visit to that grand old 
mountain ruin. 

Ne"WCOinb is 7!-^ miles west of Tahawus, 14 miles 
east of Long Lake and 29 from North Creek. It is 
one of the oldest settled sections in the wilderness ; is 
quiet and affords fare hunting and fishing. A water 
route, leading from this point, through Rich and Cat- 
lin Lakes, to Long Lake, strikes the latter near its 
outlet. Accommodations may be found here at the 
Wayside Inn. P. Monahan, proprietor. Washington 
Chase is postmaster, job printer, and dealer in drugs 
and general merchandise, and one of the enterprising 
men of the town. 

-X' -y. ji .^ .V. ^ ^ ^ jj 

North. Creek Stages run on arrival of noon 
train to Blue Mountain Lake in time for supper 



l82 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Fare, North Creek to Blue Mountain Lake, $3. Patent 
canopy-top buckboards, may be had by paying an ad- 
ditional sum, for which apply to the stage agent at 
either end of the route, personally or by mail or tele- 
graph, or at the hotels. Fare one buckboard carrying 
one person $10; two persons $11 ; three or more per- 
sons $4 each; two children under 12 occupying one 
seat same as one adult. 

The North River Hotel is five miles from North 
Creek. Capacity 40. AV. H. Roblee, proprietor. 
This is the regular dining place (dinner 75 cents) 
for passengers over this road in going in or coming 
out of the woods, and provides a meal seldom equalled 
in its wholesomeness and hunger-satisfying nature. 
Stages run as far as this point, on arrival of the even- 













i:^^ '-Mi. 



NORTH RIVER HOTEL. 



ing train from the south, bringing such a<^ may desire 
to remain over and be fortified with a night's rest and 
one or more of mine host Roblee' s excellent meals for 
the longer ride of the morrow, and it is recommended 
that those not over robust arrange to break the iour- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 83 

ney here, taking buckboards for the interior in the 
morning. A day or more can be spent here to advan- 
tage, either for rest or sport. The surrounding 
country affords excellent fishing and the smaller 
game, and is within easy walking distance of points 
where the larger kinds may be found. For rates see 
appendix. Connection with the Western Union Tele- 
graph is made at this point. Tiiirteentli Lake, 
four miles west, is reached over a very good road. 
The lake is about three miles in length by a half mile 
wide, 1,952 feet above tide, and affords excellent fish- 
ing. The wild country around it is noted hunting 
ground. 

A short distance above North River we leave the 
river and climb up through a high notch at the west, 
rising a thousand feet in something less than four 
miles, then descending gradually, cross a stretch of 
burnt land to Indian River. The Indian River 
Hotel, with capacity for 40, is here at the crossing, 11 
miles from North River. It is frequented some by 
hunters but is not specially attractive or* to be recom- 
mended. The Seven Chain Lakes are north of 
Indian River about seven miles, reached over an in- 
different road. Cham Lake House, built in 1893, will 
provide for 25 guests. Hutchins & Porter, proprie- 
tors. Special conveyance from Indian Lake carrying 
I to 3 costs $6. Address at Indian Lake. From the 
Fifth Lake a trail-and- water route leads north to New- 
comb, something over ten miles distance. Indian 
Lake (P. O.) is one mile west of Indian River. A 
few houses at intervals along the road, a very com- 
fortable looking hotel, with stores, and a post-ofihce, 
constitute the village. 

Indian Lake (thatis, the lake proper), is about two 
miles south of the village. The original lake was 
about three miles long, but the " overflow " sets back 
in times of high-water, increasing its length to some- 
thing more than twelve miles. Lewey Lake, is 



1 84 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

twelve miles south of Indian Lake Village. The 
" overflow " of Indian Lake at times reaches back to 
the falls at outlet of Lewey Lake. In low water the 
river between the two is navigable, with the excep- 
tion of a short carry around the falls above mentioned. 
A little hotel at the head of Lewey Lake is kept by J. 
McCormick. Will accommodate about 40. P. O., 
Indian Lake. Cedar Lakes are reached by a 
rough eight-mile trail from this point west, or by road 
from Lake Pleasant, or via Cedar River route, from 
the Blue Mountain Lake road. The West Canada 
Lakes, belonging to another system, and discharg- 
ing into the Mohawk, may be reached from the Cedar 
Lakes by short carries — all, however, reached much 
better from gateway No. 8. 



Fonda on the N. Y. C. R. R. 44 miles west of 
Albany is Gateway No. 8 The Fonda, Johnstown 
and Gloversville R. R. extends to Northville, 26 
miles, fare $1. Sacondaga Park, at the terminus of 
the railroad, has a commodious and 
well kept hotel, and a number of 
handsome summer cottages belong- 
ing to private parties. Sageville 
is the county seat of Hamilton 
County. It is a scattered village of 
40 or 50 families, centered at the 
southwestern extremity of Lake 
Pleasant, occupying ground be- 
tween it and Round Lake. A stage 
runs daily to and from Northville 
28I2 miles, fare $2. There is a tele- 
graph office and post-office here. 
The place is not specially noted. 
Lake -Pleasant Inn with capacity for 60 guests, J. D. 
Morley, proprietor, and " Kun-Ja-Muck," formerly 
Call's Hotel, under the management of Mrs. Anna A. 




Hotels are the 



THE ADIRONDACKS. IS5 

McMartin, will provide for 50 guests. Lake 
Pleasant is about four miles long. At its north- 
western extremity is the Sturgess House. Piseco 
Lake is about six miles southwest of Sageville, and 
affords good fishing. 

Cedar River is 20 miles from North Creek. From 
this point west runs a road into noted hunting ground 
around Little Moose Lake and the head waters of the 
South branch of Moose River. The way is rough, and 
the accommodations of a primitive nature, and be- 
cause of these very conditions, perhaps, the section is 
visited by a sturdy class of Nifnrods who have little 
afinity for the softer experiences of more frequented 
sections. It is 12 miles to the house at Wakely Dam, 
18 to Little Moose Lake and 7 more to Sportsman's 
home, at Indian Clearing. From Cedar River to 
Blue Mountain Lake, 10 miles, the road is through 
almost continuous forest save the occasional opening 
made by some stalwart settler, and the to-be-expec- 
ted " Half-way " house where the horses are watered 
and allowed to get their breath while the expectant 
landlord stands invitingly ready to serve the passen- 
gers with stronger liquid. Note in passing the de- 
vastation caused by the cyclone of 1888. 




1 y^ vX I 



•I S!-*1- 

4. J ' >• 






a?^' 



'. ''■ 



^i:!l^l2±±___,^ \ i "Afm^-^^^^rpk * 






SLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE HOUSE, 



CHAPTER IX. 

Blue Mountain, Raquette and 
Long Lake. 

BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE is fairly in the Great 
North Woods. It is the opening of communication 
by boat with the magnificent system of lakes and 
streams which cover so large a portion of the Southern 
Adirondack Wilderness. It is an irregular oval in 
shape, 1, 800 feet above tide, extends nearly three miles 
its longest way, and empties at the west through 
Eagle and Ut(nvana lakes into Raquette Lake. 

Blue Mountain Lake House is on the east 
shore of the deep bay which first appears as we 
approach from North Creek. Capacity about 400. 
John G. Holland, proprietor. The house is spacious 
and attractive. The main part is four stories high and 
150 feet long, with fine, broad piazza, facing the 
lake, and with a rear extension almost as large as the 
main building. It stands on an evelation, over- 
looking a grove of native trees, through which 
paths lead down to the sandy beach, from which the 
steamboat starts on its daily trips down the lake. 
Ten outlying cottages, among the trees, afford very 
desirable quarters for those who may prefer apart- 
ments removed from the stir and bustle of a great 
hotcL Telegraph office connecting with the Western 
Union system, and stage and steamboat ticket offices, 
are in the hotel. Stateroom and sleeping car berths 
can be secured here. Mr. Holland is the pioneer hotel 
man of this section. He is genial, accommodating 
and popular, winning the esteem of his guests; so 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



189 



that those who have once enjoyed his hospitality are 
,c^enerally his warm advocates tliereafter. With him 
the old house had a patronage greater, perhaps, ac- 
cording to its capacity, than any other one in the 
wilderness, and under him. the new one likewise 
prospers. For rates, etc. , see appendix. Tlie first 
liotel at Blue Mountain Lake was builthere in 1S74, 
by Dr. G. R. Martine, of Glens Falls, N. Y., to whose 
energy and far-sightedness much credit is due for 
the initiatory in opening up this now popular gateway 
into the wilderness, and for whose unswerving 
belief in the valua.ble curative properties of this 
high mountain region, many have reason to feel 
grateful. The old house was burnt in 1886 ; but, with 
characteristic energy, arrangements were immedi- 
ately made for rebuilding on the old site and the 
present house is the result. 

Tlie Blue Mountain House is on the east about 
a mile noith of the Lako House Capacity of house 




\ 
















^ 


^ 


"^ i 




A 








t^^ 






r^^^ 


-' \ 




^^ 




23£ 


>«.. 


n 


iw 




^^ 







^^^"nn 



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and cottages about So. P. O., Blue Mountain Lake. 
Open all the year. A telegtaph office in the house. 



igO THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Tyler M. Merwin, proprietor. The house stands on a 
spur of Blue Mountain, 200 feet above the water, to 
which the surface drops sharply. The view is one of 
the loveliest imaginable, revealing the lake in its en- 
tirety with the island-studded plain at our feet, the 
receding shores leading away to the outlet, and over 
beyond it the lengthened reach of Eagle Lake, with a 
glimpse of Ut )vvana and the verdant slopes that com- 
pass about the shores of Queenly Raquette. A path 
leads down through the thick forest to where a*fleet 
of dainty Adirondack boats lie snugly in boat house, 
or at rest on the sandy beach. The fare is whole- 
some, abundant and cleanly. A free carriage con- 
veys guests to and from the Lake House, to connect 
with the stage for North Creek, and stages pass the 
house daily for Long Lake, eight miles distant. For 
rates, etc., see appendix. 

TJie Prospect House is on the west shore a half 
mile beyond the Lake House. Howard M. Durant, 
proprietor. The house was built in 1S81 and is 



among the most imposing of Adirondack hotels, hav- 
ing more the atmosphere of Saratoga or Newport 
than of the simpler Adirondacks. The entertain- 
ment is first class. There are two or three other 
houses here cheaper, and principally with a local 
patronage. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



191 



The Blue Mountain and Raquette Lake 
Steamers, J. G. Thompson, superintendent, are of 
light draft, that they may pass easily through the 
shallow streams connecting the lakes. One of these 
boats leaves the hotel docks morning and afternoon, 
and connects at Marion R.iver Carry with steamer for 
Raquette Lake landings. They are well adapted to 
the particular needs of the traffic here, and the service, 
wniie working with clock-like regularity, is not ob- 
trusively formal, but fits in admirably with the sur- 







BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE OUTLET. 



rounding conditicms. The excursion is one of the 
most delightful ones of the wilderness — a source of 
continued surprise and enjoyment, introducing as it 
were, the traveler to the wild woods and lakes in the 
mildest manner possible, and giving him just a sug- 
gestion of the difficulties of portage between waters, 
that will be found later on. Extra boats are subject 
to charter, affording a means of exploring the nooks 
and by-ways of lakes and tributary streams. The 
line belongs to W. W. I^urant, ex-President of the 
Adirondack Railroad, and owner of a number of 
townships around this and Raquette lakes. As we 



192 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

pass out into the open lake leaving the Lake House, 
Blue Mountain rises in graceful outline behind us. On 
its western slope, high above the water, is the Moun- 
tain House; nearer is Thatcher's Island, the property 
of ex-Mayor Thatcher, of Albany. On the point pro- 
jecting from the south shore, near the outlet, is the at- 
tractive summer place of Colonel Duryea, of New 
York. Memorial Bridge, rustic in design, and 
resting on heavy stone piers, spans the outlet of the 

lake, its expen- 
sive character 
hardly veiled as 
yet by the vines 
that are de- 
signed in time to 
cover its mass- 
ive approaches. 
A bronze tablet 
let into masonry 
on one side bears 
the following in- 
scription : "Pio- 
neer Bridge. In memory of Dr. Thomas Clark Du- 
rant. Projector, Builder, Vice-President and General 
Manage • of the first trans-continental railway. The 
Union I'acific, President and builder of the Adiron- 
dack Railway. Erected by his son William West Du- 
rant. Anno Domini i8gi." Passing through the out- 
let with sk.ckened speed Eagle Lake is entered. 
This lake is about one " mile long, with low, wooded 
shores, except on the north side, where in a clearing 
stands the old log house known as the" Eagle's Nest," 
where " Ned Buntline" came in 1856, and where he 
wrote, and hunted, and filled the mind of the pu^" ic 
with wild reports of his erratic doings to his heart's 
content. He married a wife and buried her here, and 
then, tired of the old j)lace, drifted out into the 
world again. 




MEMORIAL BRIDGE. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



193 



Ned Buntline (Edward Z. C.Judson) was born 
at Stamford, N. Y., March 20, 1823. His adventur- 
ous career began in early childhood. He killed his 
first deer when eight years of age, ran off to sea at 
eleven, was promoted^ to midshipman when only 
thirteen, the same year fought seven duels with fellow- 
midshipmen who refused 
to mess with him on ac- 
count of his suppor-ed in- 
feriority, and threatened 
to deplete the whole bud- 
ding navy unless he was 
acknowl edged as an 
equal. The navy wilted ! 
He served with credit in 
the Seminole war, and in 
the Mexican war, and 
. when the war cloud broke 
over the South, his 
venturesome spirit called 
him . to the field once 
more. Five wounds by 
sabre and bullet, one of 
which made him lame for life, testify to his service for 
the country he served so proudly and gladly, while 
with fine scorn he refused the proffered pension. 
Later, at intervals, as novelist, dramatist, actor and 
temperance advocate he filled the public mind like — 
no one under the sun but only " Ned Buntline" the 
irrepressible. His first story, " I'he Captain's Pig," 
was published in his fifteenth year. As a writer of 
" Frontier Fiction " he was unexcelled. Buffalo Bill, 
Texas Jack, and Wild Bill were made famous by his 
stories of border life. His income as a story writer 
amounted to $20,000 annualh'. His literary produc- 
tions would make more than two hundred large vol- 
umes. He was foremost in organizing the order of 




NED BUNTLINE. 



194 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 




" United Americans" and the " Patriotic Order Sons 
of America," He died July i6, i8S6, at his mountain 
home, tlie " Eagle's Nest," in Delaware Co., N.Y. 

A somewhat longer stream than the one we have 
just left leads throngb drowned lands, from Eagle 
into Utowana Lake which is about two miles long, 
narrow and straight, running away toward the west. 
Passing through it and into its outlet the landing is 
soon reached where stands a rustic waiting-room at 

the dam which has 
raise d the water, 
making navigable the 
streams back into 
Blue Mountain Lake. 
From this landing a 
road leads to the head 
of navigation, on the 
Marion River, a half-mile distant. You have noticed, 
perhaps, that the whistle was blown some way back, 
and in response, as we approach, a one-horse wagon, 
with a rigging somewhat like a hay-rack, makes its 
appearance. Into this the baggage is tumbled, the 
boats tied on (if any are there to be carried), and the 
weaker members of the party, or those who may pre- 
fer to ride, take their places. Few do care to ride, 
however, for this carry is simply an excellent road 
through the woods, resembling in no respect the slip- 
pery carries of the back country. At its west end we 
find another steamer, somcAvhat larger than the one 
we have just left but belonging to the same famil}^, as 
you will conclude from its jaw-breaking Indian name. 
There is a steam mill here doing a good business in 
the preparation of the coarser lumber used in building 
in this section, and a large boarding house that will 
on occasion be found a A\'elcome stopping place at 
night. Tlie Marion River, is one of the crooked- 
est rivers in the M'^orld. It has no perceptible current 



TKE AUIRONDACKS. 



195 



along its reedy shores, but wanders back and forth 
between the low hills, in a succession of loops, that 
makes the way traversed, which is about two miles in 
a straight line, double that distance before open water 



Col -^t^^i 






■3te 



MARION RIVER LANDING. 



is reached. This is the largest feeder of the 
Raquette, and enters it through a gradually widen- 
ing estuary, beyond which is seen the islands and the 
broad lake. Raquette Lake is but a great mass oi 
bays, separated by far-reaching points, extending 
east and west. Its greatest length is but about 
five miles, measured through islands and inter- 
vening headlands ; yet so irregular is its shape 
that the shore line, in its devious windings, 
is over 40 miles in extent. It is said that the 
first house built at Raquette Lake stood on Indian 
Point, where an effort was made at farming. 
A twenty years' struggle, however, ended in its 
•abandonment ; and, when we passed by, in 1873, only 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



19: 




ALVAH DUNNING. 



one lone man — old Alva Dunning, lived Robinson 
Crusoe-like on Osprey Island,, with only his dogs for 

companions, monarch of the 
beautiful lake, the Sabbath 
stillness broken only by an 
occasional party in camp or 
passing boat. Later, Alvah 
gave up possession of his is- 
land and built a little cabin at 
the mouth of the Brown Tract 
Inlet, where he may be found 
still, solitary and alone, a man 
with a history. Now how dif- 
ferent the scene ! A fibre 
from the throbbing mass of 
travel has pierced the depths 
and its shores are teeming 
with life. Comfortable hotels have sprung into sudden 
and thrifty existence to meet the requirements of the 
season, and the shrill whistle of the commg steamer 
calls forth joyous crowds for their daily budget of 
news from the outer world. 

Raquette Lake Post Office is on Long Point, 
at the left as we emerge from Marion River and pass 
out in the gradually broadening lake. Mail addressed 
to Raquette Lake is delivered here, unless, as is cus- 
tomary, each hotel, camp and cottage has furnished 
its individual mail-bag, which the accommodating 
steamboat captain g;athers and delivers daily. It has 
a Telegrapll Office also in the building with the 
post-office — a bit of enterprise for which thanks are 
due W. W. Durant. 

" Tlie Hemlocks " stands just west of the Post 
Office, Hanked by pretty rustic cottages on either side, 
one formerly occupied by Madam Gerster at the east, 
and the Cot'terell Cottage on the west, with capacity, 
all told, for about 60 guests. There are hemlocks 



igS THE ADIRONDACKS. 

here, giving occasion for the name, but there aremag- 
ryficent pines also and wonderfully beautiful silver 






Vi 










THE HEMLOCKS. 

and yellow birches and other forest trees. It is full 
of shadows and is suggestive of comfort in the warm- 
est of weather here, the outlook facing northward 
revealing pretty vistas of lake between the islands. 
The house opens this year under the management of 
Mr. John J. Daly, who was identified with its man- 
agement under its founder, now returning to it as pro- 
prietor. He comes highly recommended, with all 
necessary experience, a wide knowledge of the section 
and its needs, and with energy which will undoubt- 
edly make of the " Hemlocks" all that its fine natural 
advantages entitles it to. Sportsmen can ordinarily 
have boats, guides and necessary camp outfits on ap- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



199 



plication, but a better way is to arrange for these in 
advance of arrival. Address at Raquette Lake. See 
appendix for rates and other particulars. 

Tlie Antlers is on Constable Point in plain sight 
almost due west as the steamer leaves the mouth of 
Marion River. C. H. Bennett, proprietor. P. O., 
Raquette Lake. The location is a delightful one, and 
commands an extensive view of the lake north and 
south, as well as into this deep bay from which the 
approach is made. It is a hotel on the colonization 




^11 



^^\ 



.» ,4'i"^'^')'"' C^ 



^^J,h>M 



THE ANTLERS, DINING ROOM AND MAIN COTTAGE. 



plan — a collection of camp-cottages, which may be 
rented at room rates, and a larger central building, 
containing the general office, dining-room and public 
rooms, the idea being a collection of camps in which 
guests shall have all the privacy of their own homes, 
relieved from the annoying but quite necessary details 
of the preparation of their daily food. This plan of 
separate buildings of one or two rooms each has 
proved a success here. It gives the temporary pro- 
prietor of each a sense of independence and owner- 
ship that is very pleasant, resulting in each structure 



200 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



taking upon itself a dsgree of individuality according 
to the taste and disposition of its occupants, interest- 
ing to observe. Provisions are also made to entertain 
transient guests here an the same general plan. Ac- 
commoiations are offered for about 75. Boats, gaides, 
camp supplies and fishing necessaries can be had of 
the proprietor. The steamboat stops at this point 
about an hour and a half to allow time for dinner. 
The proprietor of the Antlers, is genial, attentive and 
obliging and has made many friends. The Antlers 
has Its special attractions and is particularly noted for 
excellence of table. For rates see appendix.. It is 
intended that a road will be opened from this point 
to Ra^uette Lake Station on the A. & St. L. R. R., 
about 12 miles west, but for the present a line of row- 
boats will run to connect with the Fulton Ciiain 
steamer at the head of Fourth Lake, connecting with 
the A. & St. L. R. R. Through fare will be about 
$3.00. 

TJie Open Gamp, a pleasant feature of the Adi- 
rondacks, is seen in its best form here, and at night — 
when the logs piled high and blazing, flood the in- 




terior with pleasant warmth, thawing the most crusty 
into genial friendliness— gather the minister, the 
author, the playwright, the musician, and even the 
haughty broker ; to melt and become better ac- 
quainted in an evening than ordinarily by a whole 
season's intercourse in the hotel parlor. 



202 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Brightside-on-Raquette stands among the 
trees on the south side of Indian Point under "The 
Crags." The main building is finished in native 
woods with a degree of elegance that bespeaks the 
artistic feeling of the builder who is also the pro- 
prietor. It is nicely furnished throughout. The ac- 
commodations offered are sufficient for about 20 
guests. J. O. A. Bryere, proprietor. For rates see 
appendix. Mr. Bryere is noted for artistic skill in 
the manufacture of rustic furniture. His services in 
this particular line are at a premium in the woods 
and many camps hereabout show beautiful specimens 
of his skill. Rush Point Camp, near South Inlet, 
kept by honest, big-hearted Jo. Whitney, accommo- 
dates 10. "Uncle Jo's" flowers are alone worth going 
there to see. Blan chard's Wigwam, on Green Point, 
west of Camp Stott, C. W. Blanchard, proprietor, 
offers entertainment for 25 guests. 

Unique and pretty features of Raquette Lake are 
its Cliurclies, one of the Roman Catholic faith, 
standing among the trees near the Post Office, and 
the other (Episcopalian) on a small island south of 
Osprey Island, where services are conducted regularly 
throughout the summer, the congregation coming bv 
steamers and row-boats. The officiating clergyman 
of the last named church occupies the rectory on the 
island during the season. The Camps of Raquette 
Lake are elegant affairs, and although built of rustic 
material found ready to the hand, it is apparent that 
twisted cedar, shaggy spruce and silvery birch, in 
their native vestments, were not chosen because they 
cost nothing there. Some of these camps are works 
of art, and filled with dainty bric-a-brac ; generall}^ 
however, pertaining to woodsy things, and in keeping 
with their native environment. The pioneer camp of 
this section, and one of the most artistic in the woods, 
is "Camp Pine Knot," on South Bay. It was com- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 203 

menced in the winter of 1S76-7, by its present owner, 
W. W. Durant, and completed — well, to tell the truth, 
these camps are 7iever completed really, for one of 
the fascinating features of the camp is that it is 
bound by no rule of time or architecture. It expands 
and blossoms with the passing season, and is never 




CAMP PINE KNOT. 



exactlythe same one year that it was the year before, 
but it is always finished enough for comfort — it is 
"otetiwi." Echo Camp, on Long Point, west of the 
Raquette Lake House, tasteful and artistic, belongs 
toex-Gov. Lounsbery, of Connecticut. "Camp Fair 
Aaew," on Osprey Island, belonging to Mrs. LaDew, 
of New York, is an excellent specimen of ornate rus- 
tic architecture. Deerhurst Camp, on Kenwell's 
Point, belongs to Mr. Wm. Strange, of Paterson, N. 
J. ; the cottage standing on the north side of this 
point is that of Senator McCarthy, of Syracuse. Sen- 
ator Henderson has a pleasant camp on the south side 



204 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

of Indian Point. "Camp Stott," the summer place 
of Com. Frank Stott, of Stottville, Columbia Co., is 
on the long point north of Kenwell's Point. A camp 
belonging to James Tenyck, of Albany, and ' ' Camp 
Hasbrouck," are on the north shore near the outlet. 
*'Camp Otetiwi." (always ready), belonging to Dr. 
A. G. Gerster, of New York, is on the large island 
west of Camp Pine Knot. " Camp Osceola" on the 
west near the Brown Ti act inlet, withdraws from pub 
lie gaze among the thickly crowding trees, but those 
who are fortunate enough to gain fav^or there will re- 
ceive a right royal welcome from its owner. Dr. 
Seneca D.Powell, of West 40th St. , New York. Happy 
the favored visitor to one of these camps, and happy 
the owner. Say v\'hat you will, the fact cannot be 
disguised, we are all children and enjoy pla^dng 
house ; only, at svxty, we .need a ten-thousand-dollar 
lodge in a vast wilderness, when at six, a piece of old 
carpet, stretched over a corner in the rail fence, satis- 
fied all our earthly desires. 

Sumner Park, southeast of Raquette Lake, is held 
as a private game and iish preserve by the owner of 
Camp Pine Knot. It consists of township 6 with por- 
tions of township 5 to include the whole of Sumner 
Lake and Mohegan Pond, the South Inlet and the 
southern shores of South Bay. It is all under police 
patrol and the public is warned against trespassing 
under penalty of the law. Raquette Lake owes much 
of its prosperity to Mr. Durant, and only the most 
rabid of communists can question the justice — as it is 
unquestionably his right— of reserving this part, 
forming less than half of his possessions in this sec- 
tion, for his personal use. 

********* 

Forked Lake is north of Raquette Lake outlet, 5 
miles long east and west, quite straight on its south 
side, irregular along the north and opening up into a 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 205 

far-reaching bay — itself the main branch o.n which is 
strung a succession of deep bays, with intervening 
points extending from east to west. This deep bay 
continues toward the north to form Little Forked Lake 
through which, b)- the "Bottle Pond Route," Tupper 
Lake is reached. Forked. T^iake House looks into 
this north bay from the suuth shore a half mile north 
of the steamboat landing on the outlet of Raquette 
Lake. This is included in the property belonging to 
the "Hamilton Park Club." Transient visitors can 
procure meals here, but it is understood that no 
permanent guests will be taken except members of the 
club and their friends. 

From the outlet of Forked Lake a mile-and-a-half 
carry is encountered (horse draw-over, $1.50 for boat 
and baggage), then follows nearly the same distance 
of uncertain boating to the head of a short carry 
around Buttermilk Falls, where the water dashes 
and foams over the rocks in a descent of about 20 feet, 
the name, not very poetical, probably suggested by 
the churning it gets in reaching bottom. This is gen- 
erally understood to be the "Phantom Falls," over 
which Murray went in his boat in pursuit of the phan- 
to"i form, as described in his early chronicles of 
adventures in the wilderness. ' ' A very probable story 
for a ini?iister to tell," said my old guide to me once 
in passing. ' ' Why, I drove a brood of young ducks 
down over there once — the old one knew better than 
to go — she flew up stream ; but they — a dozen of 'em — 
went over, and only three came out alive. He talk of 
shooting Buttermilk Falls — there isn't Baptist enough 
about him — but there's one thing he can 'shoot'; 
that's the long bow." Alas for Mr. Murrav's reputa- 
tion for veracity! The beautiful creations of fancy, 
conjured up by his fertile brain, are held as witnesses 
against him, simply because, in his lavish generosity, 
he enriched the common occurrences of every-day 



2o6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

life in the woods with the precious incense of concep- 
tive genius, and left a dazzled world to separate the 
real from the ideal ! The guides took him literally, 
and, although then in the high tide of his popularity, 
had come to the conclusion that if his preaching was 
not a better guide to Heaven than his book to the 
Adirondacks his congregation might manage to worry 
along with a cheaper man. 

Another half mile of boating with another carry of 
equal length brings the voyageur to the navigable 
waters at the head of Long Lake. 

TiOUg Lake is about 14 miles long and i mile in 
width at the widest part, which is is near its outlet. 
It runs in a northeasterly direction, receives the 
waters of the Raquette at its head and gives them up 
to the Raquette River at its foot, which, flowing 
northward, passes within about 2 miles of Upper 
Saranac Lake, then turns west, touching the foot of 
Tupper Lake, thefice northwesterly past Potsdam to 
the St. Lawrence. Its shores are strikingly diverse at 
different points, showing bold cliffs, gentle slopes, 
overhanging trees and beautiful sand beaches at 
intervals along th^^ir extended stretch. It has several 
very pretty islands, the larger ones near the north 
end. Owl's Head Mountain, near the head of the 
lake, on the west, is marked on the map as being 
2,825 feet above tide, but as Long Lake is 1,614 feet 
above tide, this isn't much of a mountain after all. 
To the west the country is comparatively level ; on the 
east IS Mount Kempshall ; on the north is seen the 
blue serrated summit of Mount Seward, 4,384 feet 
above tide. 

The Grove House is about two miles from the 
head in a grove of tall pines on the abrupt eastern 
bank of the lake, seven miles from Raquette and nine 
miles from Blue Mountain lake. Capacity of house 
50. David Helms, proprietor. Post-office '.jrove. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 207 

Hamilton Co.) in the house. Open all the year. 
Special rates are offered to parties remaining any 
considerable time. For particulars see appendix. 
Pleasant features of the place are its open camps, and 
cottages with open fire places. Mr. Helms is a noted 
guide and hunter and his house a favorite resort for 
hunters and fishermen, who know that his experience 
and advice may be relied upon. He knows where the 
trout, the bass and the pickerel are to be found in 
their season ; where the duck swims, the partridge 
hides and the deer runs, and his knowledge is freely 
placed at the service of his visitors. Mr. Helms will 
carry boats, passengers or baggage from this point to 
Forked or Blue Mountain Lakes on application. This 
is sometimes done to avoid the, at times, difficult 
portion of the water route. It is proposed to run a 
boat line from this point via the Slim Pond route to 
Horseshoe Pond on the A. 8z St. L. R. R. Address Mr. 
Helms for particulars. 

Tlie New Sagamore stands on a bluff project- 
ing from the east shore of the lake about 4 miles from 
its head. It has capacity for about 250 guests. Ed- 
ward Butler, proprietor ; Post Office, Long Lake. From 
its location it commands a view of almost the entire 
length of the lake, north and south. This is the 
grand hotel of this section. The erection of the old 
hotel here in 1885 marked an era in the history of the 
town by creating a prosperous business out of the 
pleasures and necessities of its guests. It was burnt 
to the ground in the fall of 1S89 with all its contents. 
The new house erected in the place of the old, is very 
like the original except that it is finer and grander in 
all respects. It is ample in all its proportions with 
spacious halls, office, dining room and parlors and a 
general smoking and lounging room where guide and 
sportsman gather to make plans for coming excur- 
sions or to live over again the stirring events of the 



fe 






l'i'/[! 



^ 









,1., !'ir '' H' J 



(11 lliVil 1 







THE ADIRONDACKS, 209 

day. It has all the necessary conveniences of the 
modern hotel, substantially and in parts, elegantly, 
furnished and will be found as comfortable as any 
visitor can reasonably desire. The water supply is 
drawn from a large mountain spring, and the sanitary 
arrangements are as perfect as the most approved 
scientific methods can secure. The same liberality 
and excellence as to cuisine, for which this house has 
been noted, will undoubtedly be continued. Connec- 
tion is had with the W. U. telegraph in the Sagamore 
office. Mails arrive and depart daily. Tally-ho 
coaches will run to Blue Mt. Lake, nine miles distant, 
to connect witli the regular line, to trains at North 
Creek, or private conveyance to the railroad, much 
more comfortable than the coaches, will be furnished, 
carrying three or more persons with light luggage at 
$6.00 each. Regular stage fare to North Creek is 
$4. 50. Long Lake is also accessible from the North by 
steamer to the head of Upper Saranac Lake ; thence 
7)ia the Raquette River by row boats, a very pretty 
and enjoyable trip through this portion of the moun- 
tains. 

The Lake House is a quarter of a mile north of the 
Sagamore, at the point where the road from the east 
comes to the lake ; will provide for about 30. W. F. 
^vlcCarthy, manager. Long Lake Hotel at the vil- 
lage will provide for man and beast at a moderate 
price. Helms & Smith, proprietors. 

liOng Lake (village) lies a half mile east of the 
Lake. In the matter of business Long Lake lumbers 
.>ome, farms some, trades a little, hunts and guides 
considerably, and makes sporting boats of superior 
quality and of a build that is recognized and spoken 
of generally as the " Long Lake boat." although the 
one in question may have been built many miles 
away. Although spots hereabouts have been settled 
and cultivated for many years, this section has, for 
lack of satisfactory accommodations and transporta- 
tion tacixicies, oeu' neglected by sportsmen and sum- 



2IO 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



mer visitors, and as a consequence has retained much 
of Its wildness in its immediate surroundings. With 
the reopening of the Sagamore, and the attendant im- 
improvement in transportation, the objections that 
have retarded its advance are removed and its back- 
ward development will prove rather an attraction 
than otherwise. Another factor in its development is 
the growing interest in wild cottage sites — the natural 

longing of man for ' ' a 
lodge in some vast 
wdlderness " — and the 
resultant organization 
of a company with a 
preserve of 4,000 acres 
of land lying on both 
shores of the lake, and 
the offer through their 
agent, of camp and villa 
sites of lo-acre lots 
each, including the 
the game and forest 
privilege of the entire 
tract, on a three or five 
year lease -with the privilege of purchasing at from 
$500 to $1,000 any time during its continuance. Ap- 
plication for purchase or lease may be made to 
General Hazard Stevens, 85 Devonshire street, Bos- 
ton, Mass., or to M. R. Sutton, Agent, Long Lake, 
N. Y. Among those who have become purchasers 
are Rev. F. S. Haines of Easton, Pa., and Dr. J. H. 
Woodward of Burlington, Vt., who has built a pretty 
camp at " White Birches " Point. Senator Piatt has 
a summer camp on the east shore near the outlet, 
and nearly opposite is the camp of Rev. Dr. Duryea 
Ttie Island House, on an island near the outlet, 
affords entertainment to such as may at any time 
from choice or necessity be at that end of the lake. 
For the Raquette River see page go. 




CHAPTER X. 



The Great Vv'est Lake Regiox. 

HERKIMER, 80 miles west of Albany, may be 
termed gateway No. 9, although for a fact it 
supercedes most of the old western gateways, and 
'^ -^ '"' 1 divides with east-side 

lines the j^atronage of 
the important central 
resorts. From this 
point the Adiron- 
dack & St. Law- 
rence Railroad 
extends in a north- 
^'''' easterly direction, 
«f^ central'h^ through the 
lake region of the 
- Adirondacks, passing 
/ about two miles west 
of the Fulton Chain 
to Tupper Lake; 
" thence around the 
head of L^pper Sara- 
nac Lake, with a 
branch to the Lower 
__. [Lake; thence north- 
erly past Rainbow and Loon Lake to Malone. The 
New York Central & Hudson River Railroad, of 
which the A. & St. L. is an important branch, carries 
by far the larger proportion of the people who go out 
of New York to the lakes and mountains of the north. 
In addition to trains running to Saratoga and east side 
resorts are Special fast express trains from Grand 




212 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Central Station, New York, morning and evening 
composed of Wagner Vestibule BniTet Drawing-room 
and Sleeping Cars, running through without change 
to Trenton Palls, Fulton Chain Lakes, Childwold, 
Tupper Lake, Saranac Lake, Paul Smith's. Loon 
Lake, Malone, Montreal and Ottawa. 

Moose River House is 4 miles west of Mc- 
Keever, which is 269 miles from New York. Capacity 
30. C. M. Barrett, proprietor. This house is on the 
western border of the Great Wilderness and affords 
good hunting and fishing for those who may not care 
to penetrate deeper. It is 11 milas from Port Levden 
and 12 miles from Boonville. on the R. , W. & O. Rail- 
road. Conveyance for these points can be had of Mr. 
Barrett. For price of board, etc, , see appendix. 

Fulton Chain (station) is 281 miles from New 
York. Here is the old Arnold clearing, which a cen- 
tury ago promised to become a centre of consider- 
able importance. This section is often spoken of as 
the " Brown Tract " and comprehends the lands 
lying around the head-waters of the Moose River. 
It was so called after John Brown, of Providence, 
R. I. , (who must not be confounded with that other 
John Brown, the " Old Man of Ossawatomie," who 
lies buried at North Elba) who became its owner in 
1793. Under direction of Brown's son-in-law a large 
forge was built below the first of the Fulton Chain of 
Lakes and the manufacture of iron attempted. At 
one time thirty to forty families were gathered here 
but the venture proved a failure and little besides the 
more substantial portions of the old forge remains 
now to mark the spot. Old Forge (hamlet and 
P, O.) is two miles from the station at the old forge 
dam built on the outlet of the Fulton Chain of Lakes. 
It consists of a dozen or so houses, a saw-mill, the 
Fulton Chain Fish Hatchery and a very good hotel — 
Tlie Forge House — with capacity for about 120 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 21 3 

guests. This house is open all the year. Garmon & 
Crosby, proprietors. Stage to station, 25 cents. 

Tile Falton Cliain is composed of eight lakes 
extending in a northeasterly direction from Old Forge. 
Their combined lengths, with connecting streams 
and carries, including 4 miles boating on the Brown 
Tract Inlet into Raquette Lake — is about 26 miles. 
The dam at Old Forge renders the stream navigable 
and makes First, Second and Third lakes practically 
one sheet of water. Bald Mountain House is at 
the head of Third Lake, 5 miles f 'rom Old Forge. By 
sta^e and boat from Fulton Chain Station, 50 cents. 
Th3 house is new, with capacity for 100 guests. C. 
M. Barrett & Co., proprietors Open from May i to 
December. P. O., Old Forge. For rates see appen- 
dix. Guides, boats, etc. , can be engaged here during 
the season. Fourth Lake is the largest of the chain, 
being nearly six miles in length. It contains a num- 
ber of pretty islands and a number of public camps 
where entertainment can be obtained at from $7 to 
$10 per week. The most noted of these are the Fourth 
Lake House near the outlet, C. S. Halliday, proprie- 
tor, and the Cedar Island Camp, on an island near 
the head of the lake, W. C. Augur, proprietor. In 
addition are the Alexander and the Arnold Camps at 
points on the south shore; Wood's Camp, kept by A. 
Wood, near the north end, and the Hess Camp at the 
outlet of Fifth Lake. A half mile stream, navigable 
during high water, connects Fourth Lake with Fifth, 
which is but a little pond. From this a half mile 
carry leads into Sixth Lake. The shores here and of 
the stream through which we go into Seventh are a 
slimy protest against the damming and overflov/ of 
public lands. Seventh Lake is about two miles long 
with sandy beach in places, its beauty much impaired, 
however, by the flooding that renders the inlet up 
which we go, one mile, anything but attractive. 




J 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 21 5 

From the head of navigation, a mile carry leads into 
Eighth Lake which, wonderful to relate, still preserves 
its shores almost untouched by man. This lake is two 
miles in length and contains an island on which is a 
log camp. A trail one and a half mile long passes 
from the head of Eighth Lake up over the divide and 
down to the Brown Tract Inlet, which, followed east- 
ward four miles of devious windings brings the voy- 
ageur to Raquette Lake, for which see page 195. 
A Boat liine has been established for carrying pas- 
sengers through from Old Forge. Fare for the trip 
$3. Steamer runs daily, morning and afternoon 
(Sunday excepted), from the head of Fourth Lake to 
Old Forge and return. Fare 25 cents to $1.00 from 
various points according to distance. 
■Sfr * * * * * * 

Tlie Adirondack League Club Preserve lies 
southeast of Old Forge, partially m Herkimer and 
partially in Hamilton counties. This is one of the 
largest private sporting preserves in this country, the 
forest lands owned by the Club in fee comprising 
over 104,000 acres, while it has leased the exclusive 
hunting and fishing privileges of about 75,000 acres 
more, adjoining its property on the east and south. 
The section has an average elevation of 2,200 feet. 
The old BisbyClub, with its 25 members, has recently 
consolidated with the Adirondack League Club, 
under the name of the latter. The oldest of all the 
Adirondack clubs joined in interests with the largest ! 
The Bisby Club: owned 320 acres and leased many 
thousand in the Woodhull tract, directly west of the 
League's great preserve. First Bisby Lake, and the 
other near waters, are abundantly stocked with fish. 

Bisby Lodge, the Club house on First Bisby, is 
comfortable and pleasant, and will be an important 
and useful link in the chain of cUib houses and club 
camps, which the League is establishing throughout 



2l6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

its preserve, Bisby Lodge is reached by wagon from 
White Lake Station, or by easy trail from Mountain 

Lodg'e, the club house of the Leao;ue on Little Moose 
Lake. All the property of the • Bisby Club has been 
deeded to the League and the me'.nbers of the former 
become members of the latter, while the BisV^y Club, 
as such, has gone out of existence. Henry Studor is 
manager. 

The Adirondack League Club was organized in iSgo 
by a number of gentlemen of sporting proclivities, for 
the purpose of establishing a game preserve in a 
chosen quarter of the Adirondack wilderness and to 
put into practice the system of rational forestry pre- 
vailing on the continent of Europe, which reconciles 
the preservation and continual reproduction of forest 
areas with a continual and increasing income. The 
Trustees of the Club are Abraham G. Mills, Hon. 
Warner Miller, Hon. Henry E. Howland, Robert 
C. Alexander, Dr. Bernhard E. Fernow, Alex- 
ander R. Harper, Henry S. Harper, Frederick 
G. Burnham, Mills W. Barse, Ole L. Snyder, Hon. 
Warren Higley, Rev. Samuel J. Niccolls, D.D., Wm. 
H. Boardman, Wm. G. DeAVitt, George H. Ripley. 

The officers are : President, A. G. Mills ; Vice-Pres- 
ident, Warren Higley ; Treasurer, Henry S. Harper ; 
Secretary, R. C. Alexandei. Prof. B. E. Fernow, 
Chief of the Forestry Division of the Department of 
Agriculture at Washington, is one of the Trustees, 
and the forestry adviser of the Club, and is in the ac- 
tive management of its forest policy. A contract for 
the removal of the spruce above 12 inches in diameter 
at a stumpage price, which already guarantees the 
Club an income from this source of $30,000 a year, is 
in operation, and this income it is claimed could be 
increased to $60,000 a vear without detriment to the 
tract as a hunting or fishing preserve, and with posi- 
tive benefit to the forest. Prof. Fernow estimates at 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 217 

a round million dollars the value of the merchantable 
timber which could be removed to the forest's imme- 
diate advantage. 

The plan of the Club contemplates a possible mem- 
bership of 500. Membership shares are $1,200 per 
share. Each share is unassessible, and entitles the 
holder to an undivided five-hundredth interest in the 
property, with all its hunting and fishing privileges, 
and also to a five acre site wherever selected, for a 
cottage or camp, which is deeded to each member in 
fee. Most of the sites so far selected have been on 
Honnedaga, First Bisby or Little Moose Lakes, and 
several handsome cottages have been erected on each. 
*' Forest Lodge," the Club house on Honnedaga 
Lake, is kept by A. D. Barber, as manager for the 
Club. Here excellent accommodations are furnishad 
to members, their families and guests. The approach 
is by wagon from Prospect, on the R. , W. & O. and 
also the A. & St. L., distant about 28 miles. It is 
also reached from the Honnedaga Station on the A. 
& St. L. road. 

Mountain Lodge, the new club house on Little 
Moose Lake is reached by boat from that point to the 
Club dock on First Lake, a quarter of a mile from the 
Lodge. It is one of the most attractive and comfort- 
able Club houses in the Adirondacks, with accommo- 
dations for 100, but alas ! is open only to members of 
the Club and their invited guests. Henry A. Thorne 
is manager for the Club. Each member of the Club 
is entitled to invite a friend for two weeks each sea- 
son to accompany him. Applications for membership 
may be sent to Hon. Warner Miller, Chairman of the 
Committee on Admissions, or to Robert C. Alexander, 
Secretary, 203 Broadway, New York. 
******** 

Big* Moose 'Lake is 33^ miles from Big Moose 
Station and may be reached by buckboard and boat. 
It lies about five miles in an air line north of Fourth 



2l8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Lake of the Fulton Chain and may be reached 
through Bub's, Moss and Second Lakes of the North 
Branch chain, by leaving Fourth Lake near Wood's 
Camp. There are several public camps here with 
rates from$io to $14 per week, notably Higby Camp, 
J. H. Higby, proprietor, and Camp Crag, H. H Covey, 
proprietor. For particulars see appendix. P. O. ad- 
dress. Big Moose, N. Y. 

Beaver River (Station), is about 20 miles north 
of Fulton Chain (301 1.2 from New York). A small 
steamer runs from the landing down the river to Dun- 
bar's carrying mails. Rough boating and road leads 
west to the Fenton House at Beaver Lake. 
Charles Fenton, proprietor. P. O. Number Four, 
Lewis Co. This point is more generally reached via 
the R. W. &. O. R. R. to Lowville, thence by buck- 
board 18 miles to this point. Fare $2. The house 
stands on an elevation, overlooking the lake, 133 feet 
above its surface. In addition to the main building 
are cottages suitable for families, with an aggregate 
capacity for 160 guests. This house is open all the 
year. The powerful "Beaver River Club," whose 
tramping ground this is, is opposed to " hounding." 
As a result, deer that have been driven from other 
sections by the dogs seek this quieter place, so the 
true sportsman never lacks for game worthy of his 
skill, Mr. Fenton promises "to show from one to 
five deer around the lake, within sight of the hotel, 
toward the close of any day in the early summer." 
Superior trout-fishing is also to be had in Beaver 
River. It will be well to arrange with Mr. Fenton to 
meet you at Lowville with carriage, as staging is un- 
certain. Beaver Lake is i^ miles in length. A 
smaller body of water, closely connected on the south, 
is called Beaver Pond. Crooked Lake may be reached 
by boat, i]4, miles, and carry to the north 1% miles. 
Francis Lake is about one mile south, and is some- 
thing over one mile in length. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 2 1 9- A 

The Carthage and Adirondack Rail-way 

extends from Carthage to Benson Mines, a distance 
of 43 miles. Lake Bonaparte, 17 miles from 
Carthage, is of some note as a summer fishing resort, 
with a comfortable hotel, and was first brought into 
notice as the retiring place of Joseph Bonaparte, the 
Nephew of his Uncle. Oswegatchie Station is 39 
miles from Carthage. From this point it is six miles 
to Fine, where boats may be taken by prearrange- 
raent with guide, for Cranberry Lake via the Oswe- 
gatchie River. Star Lake is o?.^ miles south of Oswe- 
gatchie Station, where two good hotels supply neces- 
sary entertainment. Benson Mines is the terminus 
of the road. From this point a trail leads south to 
the head of the overflow of Cranberry Lake and 
another to its outlet. Cranberry Lake was 
originally about six miles in length, but a dam built 
at its outlet increased its area considerably and 
changed its shape. Its altitude is 1,540 feet. Cran- 
berry Lake Hotel stands near the outlet, capacity 
for about 85 guests. The house, renovated and re- 
furnished, is again under the management of W. R. 
Bishop. Hunting and fishing outfits can be obtained 
here. Regular " all land" route to Cranberry Lake 
is from DeKalb Junction, but the stage service is un- 
certain, and it would be well before going, to write to 
the proprietor of the hotel for particulars. Address 

Cranberry Lake or Harwood. For rates see appendix. 
******* 

The A, & St. L. railroad passes in a northeasterly 
direction through Ne-ha-sa-ne Park crossing 
Beaver River at Little Rapids, thence continues be- 
tween Cranberry Lake on the west and Tupper Lake 
on the east, thence northward and out through the 
hop-fields of Salmon River valley to Malone. "Little 
Rapids" and "Ne-ha-sa-ne" are private stations to 
which no tickets are sold, being simply for the accom- 



2I9-B THE ADIRONDACKS. 

modation of persons connected with the park. Ne-ha- 
sa-ne Park belongs to Dr. W. Seward Webb. " Ne- 
ha-sa-ne " is Indian for " beaver crossing a log." The 
property belonging to Dr. Webb includes Second, 
Third and Fourth Lakes of the Fulton Chain, and 
the whole of Township 8, together with Township 42, 
East third of Township 5, Township 43 and triangle 
north of same, in Herkimer County ; and Townships 
38 and 37, in Hamilton County (except that portion of 
Township 37 lying north of the railroad). This prop- 
erty extends north to the St Lawrence County line in- 
cluding an area of nearly 250 square miles. The Park 
proper, however, which Dr. Webb reserves for his 
ov^7■n use, includes only about 50,000 acres, taking in 
Lake Lila (formerly Smith's Lake), Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake 
(formerly Albany Lake), Nigger, Oven, Big Rock, 
Crooked, Clear and Witchopple Lakes and the Beaver 
River down to the Totten & Crosstield line and about 
a mile and a half on each side of the stream. About 
8,000 acres in the northeast portion of the preserve is 
enclosed by a strong wire fence 9 feet high. Within 
this enclosure Dr. Webb turned out in 1S93, 55 elk, 20 
black-tail deer, 10 moose and a number of caribou. 
It is proposed to add other kinds of game-ani- 
mals and birds from time to time. It is fortunate 
that this wild domain is in the hands of one who has 
the disposition as well as the means to conduct the 
experiment on a large scale. The result will undoubt- 
edly demonstrate the practicability of propagating va- 
rious species of game in the wilderness region and 
furnish the best of object lessons as to methods, possibly 
leading in time to some system that may be applicable 
to larger territory, forming a nursery for the restocking 
of the whole. Next to state ownership, ownership of 
Adirondack lands bv clubs and by such men as Dr. 
Webb is to be desired as tending toward the preserva- 
tion of the forests, which is the vital question among 
those whose interest is in the general welfare of the 
people. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 219-C 

Mountain Park, comprising Township 23, 
Hamilton County, with an area of about 100 square 
miles, lying east ot Lhe northern part of Ne-ha-sa-ne 
Park, is ownea by Dr. Webb and a number of 
other gentlemen of New York. Persons are al- 
lowed to camp on this property withou . any permit, 
provided they observe the State laws regarding fish, 
game, and tires. The headquarters for this Park 
are at Pliny Robbins', on Little Tupper Lake. The 
nearest railroad station for Little Tupper Lake is 
Horse Shoe Pond, where all trains stop, and from 
which point a road runs to Round Pond and Long 
Lake. Permits will be granted to any reputable 
sportsman to hunt and fish upon all of '^r. Webb's 
property except the portion reserved for his own use, 
on condition that the State laws are observed regard- 
ing game, fish, and fires, and that no dogs are brought 
upon the property. Parties desiring to visit Betna 
Pond and Bear Pond, on the east half of Township 
37, must have a permit from Ne-ha-sa-ne Park. Camp 
sites OH Township 8, or tracts of land elsewhere in 
the property (outside of the Park proper) will be sold 
to desirable parties. For permits, and all informa- 
tion, application should be made to Dr. W. Seward 
Webb, Grand Central Station, New York, or to E. M. 
Burns, Herkimer, N. Y. No person will be allowed 
on any portion of the property without a permit. 

Brandretli Park bounded on three sides by 
Ne-ha-sa-ne and Mountain Parks, is Township 39, of 
Hamilton County, containing about 40 square miles. 
It belongs to the Brandreths of Sing Sing and ha.*^ 
been a private preserve for 20 years. Tatum Park, 
a triangular section northwest of the railroad with 
the St. Lawrence Co. line as its northern boundary, 
contains about 18 square miles, including Mud and 
Bog lakes within its limits. This is owned by Charles 
Tatum of New York, and reserved by him as p'-ivate 
hunting ground. 



CHAPTER XI. 

The Adirondack Park. 

THE FOREST PRESERVE was established by 
Act of Legislature in 1SS5, by which enactment 
"all the lands now owned or which may hereafter be 
acquired by the State of New York within the coun- 
ties of Clinton, 



Delaware, E s- 
s e X, Franklin, 
Fulton, Hamil- 
ton, Herkimer, 
Lewis, Oneida, 
Saratoga, St. 
Lawrence, War- 
ren, Washing- 
ton, Greene, Ul- 
ster, and Sulli- 
van shall consti- 
tute a n d be 
known as the 
Forest Pre- 
serve." By the 
same act a For- 
est Commis- 
sion was es- 
tabhshed, which 
were intrusted 
(Light Portion.) with ' ' the care, 

custody, control and superintendence of the Forest 
Preserve." The Commission as organized at present 
is composed of five members, namely : F. G. Bab- 
cock, Hornellsville ; Samuel J. Tilden, New Lebanon; 




ADIRONDACK PARK. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 221 

Clarkson C. Schuyler, Plattsburgh ; Nathan Straus, 
New York ; William R. Weed, Potsdam. C. O. Mc- 
Creedy, Secretary, Balston Spa. 

The position of a Forest Commissioner is an honor- 
ary one, the law requiring that ' ' tne Commissioners 
shall serve without compensation, but shall be paid 
for the reasonable expenses incurred in the perform- 
ance of their official duties." In addition to the small 
clerical force employed in the office of the Commis- 
sion, in the State Capitol at Albany, the executive 
department is under the charge of Col. William F. 
Fox, of Albany, N. Y., Superintendent of State For- 
ests, and consists of an Assistant Superintendent, 
two Inspectors and twelve Foresters, all of whom are 
appointed by the Commission. In addition to these 
salaried officials, there are 281 Firewardens in the 281 
towns in the Adirondack and Catskill Preserves, who 
are charged with the duty of extinguishing the forest 
fires which may occur in their respective districts. 
The Firewardens are appointed by the Forest Com- 
mission, and receive no pay except when employed at 
a forest fire. They have power to warn out a posse 
of citizens to assist in extinguishing a fire, and the 
men thus ordered out are also paid for their services, 
which, like those of the Firewarden, are a town 
charge. 

The Adirondack Park was established by law 
passed in 1S92, and placed in charge of the Forest 
Commission and its officials. Its lines as defined by 
the act to include the central and greater part of the 
Great Forest of Northern New York. At present the 
State owns less than one-quarter of its area, but it 
is expected that ere long, the remainder will be ac- 
quired, and the entire forest within its boundaries int 
under State control. Before this can be done, the 
Legislature must make appropriations necessary for 
the purchase of the land, a measure which is being 



222 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

strongly urged by the press and intelligent sentiment 
of the people throughout the entire State. The Adi- 
rondack Park as outlined contains 2, 807, 760 acres, and 
has been accurately classified as follows : 

Primeval Forest, 1.575.4S3 

*Lumbered Forest, 1,027,955 

Denuded, 50,050 

Burned, 13.430 

Waste, 18,526 

"Water, . . . , 57.104 

Wild Meadows, 495 

Improved, 64.717 

Of the virgin forest, about 50 per cent, are conifers, 
although in many localities this proportion varies 
greatly. 

The following article on Forests and Forestry, 
by Colonel Fox, Superintendent of State Forests, 
^ives concisely, not only .the theory and science of 
forestry, but is supposed to embody also the views of 
the Comission on the topics treated. 

" Tlie Forests of our State cover an area of 
over S,oco square miles, and are situated principally 
in the Adirondack and Catskill regions. The Great 
Forest of Northern New York, or Adirondack Park, 
is larger than the State of Connecticut. In our coun- 
try the woods have been destroyed so rapidly that 
now the percentage of forest land in the United States 
is less than in Europe. New York has 18 per cent, of 
its area in forests while Germany has c6 percent. 

The preservation of our forests is necessary 
for the water supply on which our rivers and canals 
depend ; for the climatic conditions favorable to agri- 
culture ; for the sanitary benefits afforded to invalids; 
for the existence of fish and game ; for the preserva- 

* Forests from which the spruce and hemlock have been re- 
moved leaving a hard wood forest interspersed with young 
conifers. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 223 

tion of natural scenery ; for the delightful places to 
which our people resort for rest and recreation ; and 
because the land now occupied by our great forests is 
unfit for agricultural use. But more important than 
any or all these reasons is that of our future timber 
supply. The others are incidental to this main one ; 
in securing that important point the others will be 
secured also. 

The forests, which clothe the slopes and plateaus 
of our mountain ranges, have important functions 
to perform. They are vast, natural reservoirs in 
which is stored the water that supplies our navigable 
rivers, the streams which turn our millwheels, and the 
canals which contribute so largely to the commercial 
supremacy of our State. This storage is effected in 
various ways. The leaves first break the force of 
showers, and then deliver the water slowly to the 
ground. The ground, or forest floor, or humus, as it 
is variously called, is a loose, cellular structure, com- 
posed mostly of fallen leaves, mosses and vegetable 
deposits held in place by the roots of trees, and capable 
of holding water like a sponge. This humus, protected 
by the trees, and covering in our State several thousand 
square miles of surface, holds the rains of each season 
and discharges their waters slowly through the count- 
less springs and rivulets which run to the mountain 
brooks, and thence to the larger streams and rivers. 
In summer the foliage shades the swamps, and, by 
pro'^ecting them from the sun, prevents evaporation, 
thus allowing their contents to slowly percolate 
through the porous soil and find their way to the 
rivers. The shadows of the forest also protect the 
deep snows which otherwise would, in early spring, 
melt rapidly and be discharged faster than the needs 
of our waterways would require. But, if our forests 
should be destroyed, the sun's rays would soon dry 
up the swamps, the humus would be converted into a 



224 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

hard-baked soil, down whose impacted surface the 
rains would run unobstructed. The shallow layer of 
earth, no longer held in place by trees and roots, 
\vould slide from its place on the steep slopes, leaving 
the mountain sides gray and bare, down whose rocky 
declivities the rains would pour like water from the 
roof of a house. Our streams and rivers would no 
longer preserve their even flow, but there would be 
destructive floods, followed by .disastrous drouths. 
This is no theory. It has happened elsewhere, and 
may happen here. In other countries there are many 
instances where a once fertile, prosperous region has, 
through the removal of its forests, and the consequent 
loss of rainfall, been converted into a barren, unin- 
habited desert. 

Another important function is the regulation of 
"the climate. ' Forests modify the heat and cold of 
the seasons, temper or resist destructive winds, and in- 
fluence rainfall. • It has been demonstrated <thatfamr- 
ing districts are more productive where a fair propor- 
tion of forest growth is maintained, than where the 
entire region, however rich the soil, is kept under cul- 
tivation. In some countries one-fourth of the terri- 
tory is kept in woodlands. 'The rule of the Duke of 
Burgundy w^as, ' One-third to the> hunter, two-thirds 
to the husbandman.' William Penn made a law that 
one-fifth of the land should be retained in forest 
growth ; and this at a period when the forest was 
deemed the greatest obstacle to colonial prosperity. 

The Adirondack forests exercise well-known sani- 
tary powers whose benefits cannot be estimated in 
dollars and cents. Their abundant growth of balsams 
and other evergreens impregnate the air with the 
healing odors so ett^ctive in curing pulmonary dis- 
eases. Of the many consumptives who go there, 
over one-half are cured, or obtain permanent relief. 
Besides the sick, thousands find there a refuge from 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 225 

the summer heat of the cities, and thousands of tired 
and weary ones find in that retreat the quiet so 
rece ^sary to their health and recuperation, 

Fo .'est destruction is due to various agencies 
besides the reckless use of the axe and indiscriminate 
timber cutting, The worst of these are the sweeping, 
uncontrollable fires which, in years past, have com- 
pletely destroyed large areas of timber lands, leaving 
in their places a dreary, desolate waste. These fires 
start in many ways ; but principally from the work of 
farmers in clearing land, from railroad locomotiv^es, 
and from the abandoned camp fires of hunters or 
travelers. The Forest Commission has taken efl;ec- 
tive measures to prevent this evil ; and during the 
past year, while forest fires were frequent in border- 
ing States, there were none in the Adirondack or 
Catskill region. Another source of wide-spread 
damage are the dams which, when built upon our 
forest streams, cause an overflow of water that soon 
kills the timber and converts beautiful forests into 
vast pestilential swamps filled with decaying vegeta- 
tion and the bare, tmsightly trunks of dead trees. 
The Adirondack Forests have suffered severely, also, 
through a blight which in recent years has killed the 
spruce trees in immense numbers. This extensive 
decay of the 'spruce has been attributed to various 
causes, but Prof. Lintner, our State Entomologist, 
and Prof. Peck, our State Botanist, agree that it is 
due to the work of a certain insect. Considerable 
damage also is inflicted on woodlands by cattle which 
are allowed to roam at large and eat the young seed- 
lings upon which the future growth of the woods must 
depend. 

Forestry is the science which treats of the care, 
maintenance and management of forests. It teaches 
that their permanence is of more importance than any 
immediate profit which they may yield, and recog- 



226 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

nizes only such methods as will ensure a perpetual 
timber supply. Further, it demands such manage- 
ment as will ensure on a given area the greatest crop 
of timber at the least expense. It involves the proper 
selection of trees for this purpose, and the best sys- 
tem of cutting and removing them ; the planting of 
suitable species, in proper time and place, in order to 
preserve the areas of existing woodlands and replace 
the timber which may be removed ; the judicious and 
skillful thinning of young trees in order to admit 
light and promote the growth of the better ones ; and, 
also, the establishment of new forests in treeless 
countries. It does not forbid the cutting of trees ; 
for the matured ones may be removed with beneficial 
results, and the timber harvested as well as other 
crops. But it holds that no trees shall be removed 
until proper measures have been taken for the growth 
of others to take their place, a fundamental principle 
being that, in an established forest, the rate of cut- 
ting shall not exceed the rate of growth. Forestry 
means far more than the mere removal of ripe trees. 
For instance, it does not permit the cutting of tim- 
ber on steep hillsides, where the removal of even a 
small part of the trees might result in a shifting of 
the soil ; nor such cutting as might injure the remain- 
ing forest by too great an admission of wind or sun- 
light. It provides, through an intelligent selection, for 
the removal of tmdesirable species, and fosters the 
retention of profitable ones ; and it determines the 
proper admixture of hard and soft woods, so neces- 
sary in obtaining the most productive growth from 
the conifers. Nature will always reforest denuded 
tracts in time, if they are not too badly burned ; but 
the trained forester can assist and guide the work of 
Nature the same as in other agricultural work. 
Through his botanical knowledge, he selects for plant- 
ing the species. which will thrive best and yield the 



THE AniRONDACKS. 227 

greatest profit under existing conditions, and attends 
to tlie many details upon which their successful propa- 
gation depends. These details, which are necessary 
to success, are termed by some the technical work. 

Forestry has accomplished great and benehcial re- 
sults. It has reforested desolate tracts where Nature, 
unaided, had failed to restore the tree growth. It 
has converted large areas of waste land unfit for agri- 
culture, into timber bearing tracts which have added 
to the wealth of the community. It has increased the 
the fertility of our treeless States by the establishment 
of woodland tracts and belts of sheltering trees. In 
maritime districts it has covered wide wastes of sands 
with productive woods, and, by tree-planting along 
the shifting sands of the coast, it has, in many places, 
saved the land from the encroachment of the sea. 

In the old and well established forestry bureaus of 
European governments the forests are so managed 
that they yield large revenues over and above the 
cost of maintenance, without any diminution of their 
area or density. In our country, owing to the lower 
markets and higher wages and the need of immediate 
profits, scientific methods of management are, as yet, 
but little practiced, however well they may be under- 
stood. In some European countries there are 
Forestry schools, in which a liberal education is sup- 
plemented by practical instruction in forestry and in 
the technicalities of forest management. There are 
colleges' in our own country where this subject now 
receives special attention ; and it has been suggested 
that ere long our State should establish a Forestry 
Academy in the Adirondacks, where there are so 
many favorable opportunities for carrying on the 
practical work necessary to a proper course of in- 
struction." 

WILLIAM F. FOX, 
Superintendent State Forests. 



I 



CHAPTER XII. 

Trout Fishing, Flies, Suggestions, Etc. 

By A. Nelson Cheney. 

N New York State there are but two species of trout 
native to its waters, the common brook or speckled 
trout, Salvelinus fonti)ialis, and the lake trout mis- 
called salmon trout, Sahdelimis naniaycKs/i. Other 
trout have been generously introduced into very many 
of the lakes, ponds and streams of the State, notably 
the brown trout, Sabno fario, which is the common 
brook trout of Eu-^ope, and which our National Fish 
Commission has decreed shall be known as the ' ' von 
Behr trout," because the fish were first sent to this 
country by the late Dr. von Behr, President of the 
German Fishery Association ; the Loch Leven trouc 
from the lake of the same name in Scotland, and the 
rainbow trout from the Pacific slope. All of these 
fish have been planted in Adirondack waters, the na- 
tive trout to restock the waters and the other species 
to add to the variety. It is quite out of the question 
in the limits of this chapter to give any hard and fast 
rules or directions for successful fishing, and what fol- 
lows may be regarded as suggestions only. At the 
present time trout fishing in the Adirondacks is con- 
fined to the two native species, the lake trout of the 
large, deep, cold lakes, and the brook trout of the 
streams and ponds, for they are brook trout, as we 
have learned to call them, whether caught in moun- 
tain brook, river, pond or lake, but I shall write of 
them as found in the streams. 

When the ice has gone from the streams and ponds, 
and the sun has warmed the waters a trifle, brook 
trout will be found in the deep water and holes of the 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 229 

brooks, and it is hard work to get them to rise to a fly. 
They probably know that flies are out of season at 
tliis time. If the fishing fever is on, you must take a 
plebian worm and let it lie on the bottom until it is 
Slicked in by some lazy trout ; then "yank." A 
little later, when the snow wa+er is a thing of the 
past, and the fruit trees are in bloom, and the black 
fly and the May fly are out to devour and be devoured, 
and the lazy trout, by exercise on the riffs and in 
rough water, has become an athlete, then take your 
rod, attach the patrician fly, and cast ever so gently 
at the head of the riffs, where a stone makes a little 
eddy, working down gradually to the pool at the foot 
of the rapids, where the heads of the family ' ' re- 
ceive," if they have not already anticipated your 
visit by going up the riffs like a quarter-horse, and 
taken your fly with a leap that shows yoM what you 
have to contend with. As the weather grows warmer 
they will drop back to the deep shady holes, invigora- 
ted and fattened by their visit to the graveled-bottom 
rapids. It may be that you will now be obliged to re- 
turn to the worm or to a live chub or shiner, or the 
tail of either, that when it is let down into the hole 
with the current and drawn up stream, it will whirl 
like a thing of life. I say you may be obliged to re- 
sort to this, for there are holes in streams where it 
would be folly to attempt to cast a fly. If a person 
wishes to pass them by because he never fishes with 
other than a fly, some one not so fastidious may come 
after and bring to basket some of the oldest inhabi- 
tants of the brook. Should you fish one day and find 
that the trout are all seeking the seclusion of the 
deep holes and the evening, night or next day brings 
a shower to slightly raise the brook, as soon as the 
shower is over try it again, but -fish the rapids, for the 
trout will have come out to see what the flood has 
brought for them to feast upon. A little later the 



230 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

deep holes get warm by reason of low water and con- 
tinned hot weather. The trout have their resorts at 
this season as well as the angler, and so thev take 
their families and travel to some portion of the stream 
where a cold spring comes in, or bubbles up from the 
bottom. At these "spring holes" the trout Avill be 
found in hot weather in great numbers, if the game 
law has been observed. 

As to flies, most people have their own ideas ; but 
it may be well to say that out of the countless num.- 
ber of flies, some of them unlike anything under the 
sun, the red, black, brown and gray hackles, "' tied 
both as a plain hackle ^nd palmer fashion ; coach- 
man,* yellow professor,* light and dark fox,* black 
gnat, green drake, March brown, fin fly, white miller, 
Montreal, Parmachene Belle, grizzly king,* and 
queen of the water,* constitute a good supply if one 
takes a half dozen of each. Even this is considered 
by some too many. I think I am safe in saying that 
the largest trout are caught at dusk or during star- 
light or moonlight nights ; if I am too broad in 
making this assertion I will modify it by saying large 
trout may be caught at this time by using a white 
miller, or a fly in which white predominates ; and, 
too, you must use a larger hook than the one you used 
during the day. If you have noticed a large trout in 
the stream during the day, and been unable to catch 
him, try him at night, if it is bright, and you may be 
reasonably sure of his rising to your light colored' fly. 
Sometimes you may catch an obstinate fellow by go- 
ing above his resting place and slightly roiling the 
stream, and as the muddy water passes over, let your 
fly float as naturally as possible with it, and the 
chances are in favor of your getting the trout. He 
probably knows that roily water means a freshet, and 

*Those indicated by a star are important, and should be in 
every collection. 



THE ADIRONDACKS 23I 

a freshet brings with it insects upon wnich he feeds. 
The latter portion of May, the months of June and 
July are considered the best portions of the open sea- 
son for fishing in the Adirondacks, and morning and 
evening the best portion of the day, as the trout are 
then seeking their natural food ; but the ways of the 
trout are often past finding out, for there are times 
when they will bite at nothing. 

I might give directions for fly casting, but at best 
written directions are very unsatisfactory, and the 
novice wdll gain more of real benefit from a few les- 
sons given by a fly fisherman than from all the in- 
structions ever w^ritten. 

The coachman for trout is as standard as the Jock 
Scott or silver doctor for salmon, and for many years 
stood first in my estimation as a trout fly. A half 
dozen or more years ago Mr. R. B. Marston, editor of 
the F/s/n'ng Gazette, London, sent me some samples 
of the Marston' s Fancy, a fly that was named for 
him, and I found it to be more killing than the coach- 
man in small streams where the trout are highly edu- 
cated in entomology, and my fly books are now never 
without a supply of these flies. As to tackle get a 
split bamboo, hornbeam, or ash and lance wood rod 
of three joints, about eleven feet long, weighing 
eight to ten ounces. This with an extra tip or tips, 
one a little shorter than the others, will answer for 
both bait and fly, unless you propose to " yank " your 
fish, in which case you need heavier timber ; a click 
reel to hold forty yards of braided silk, tapered line, 
waterproof ; a half-dozen leaders or casting lines nine 
feet long, of best round silkworm gut ; a supply of 
snelled hooks tied upon O'Shaughnesse}^ or Kinsey 
hooks, with a landing net of coarse mesh, will consti- 
tute an outfit for brook trout in the Adirondacks. It 
is poor economy' to buy poor tackle ; if you get any get 
the best, even if you get less. 



232 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

While I advise O'Shaughnessey or Kinsey snelled 
hooks for bait fishing, I believe the best hook on which 
to dress a fly is the Pennell-Limerick or Pennell- 
Sneck, hook made by W. Bartleet & Sons, the former 
for large flies and the latter for small ones. 

Bait fishing is not to be sneered at. But if you 
must use bait, take your angle or earth worm after it 
is scoured in damp moss, and pass your hook through 
the neck half an inch from the head, then gathering 
up a loop of the body and pass through again and again 
until you have the shank, as well as the beard of the 
hook, well covered and half an inch of " worm " over. 
Should your worm -loop, or head, or tail be taken off 
and the fish not taken in, put on a fresh bait. Unless 
you have some decided objection fish down stream. If 
you use live bait (minnows), pass your hook through 
its back under the dorsal fin, but not so low as to 
break the back bone ; should you use a portion of a 
minnow, cut ofl! the tail just at the dorsal fin ; put 
your hook in at the tail, and along the back bone, 
until the point of the hook nearly reaches the place 
cut ; your bait will then be curved to correspond with 
the bend .of the hook, and Avill whirl nicely when 
drawn against the current. 

Tlie Lake trout, although it will take a fly at 
times, is usually caught by trolling. The modus 
opermidt is as follows : With a springy trolling rod, a 
balance multiplying reel to hold loo 3^ards of braided 
silk, or linen line No. 4, leaders 6 feet long of single 
gut, and a minnow gang, which is made by tying 6, 9 
or 12 hooks in groups of three to a length of twisted 
gut with a single lip hook about one and a half inches 
above the upper group of hooks, a gaff hook, and a 
pail of minnows completing the outfit. Lake trout fish- 
ing is in order as soon as the ice leaves the lakes, for 
then the fish are at the surface of the water and it is 
really the only time that they afford sport in the 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 233 

catching, as it cannot be considered sport to troll with 
a heavy sinker at the bottom in loo or more feet of 
water, so put your rod together, put on your reel, pass 
your line through the standing guides of your rod, 
attach your leader and minnow gang, put the lip hook 
through both lips of the live bait, bend the bait and 
put one of the group hooks through the back of the 
bait behind the back fin in such a manner as to make 
it revolve when drawn slowly through the water. Of 
late years I have used the Archer Spinner in place of 
the gang, for when the minnow is impaled on the 
spindle of the spinner it must whirl, and the wings of 
the spinner hold the minnow fast and thus it is a bait 
saver, an important matter in spring trolling when 
bait fish are scarce. 

Buoy fisliing for lake trout is practiced by anchor- 
ing a block of wood, as a buoy in some deep portion 
of the lake. Morning and evening, for two or three 
days, bait your buoy by throwing overboard bits of 
fish cut up about the size of a butternut ; this will gen- 
erally attract the fish and keep them around the buoy. 
When you think the buoy sufficiently baited, put on 
your hook a piece of fish like that you have used, or a 
live minnow, and drop it over, and keep your bait 
moving up and dowm by a slight motion of your hand, 
until the sun gets too hot, or your seat gets too hard, or 
you make up your mind that there are better ways of 
fishing. Buoy fishing is not practiced now nearly as 
much as in former years, but trout are yet caught in 
this manner. I have of necessity omitted much that 
might be said, but will say in conclusion, let the "sign" 
be in the head or in the feet, the next time you try 
them, may your baskets be filled with fair-sized 
trout, but leave the little ones in the water to grow. 



234 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

"Where they may be found. In 1882 Mr. Fred 
Mather, the well-known fish culturist, explored a 
great portion of what is known as Adirondack waters 
for the purpose of making an ichthyological report to 
accompany the report of the Adirondack survey, in part 
relating to the distribution of the fishes known to the 
anglers as the " game fishes," such as are captured by 
rod and line. Mr. Mather supplemented his summer's 
work of personal exploration and examination by re- 
ports from guides and others regarding waters that 
he had not the time to visit. So that his report, so 
far as it goes, is reasonably correct and trustworthy. 
The names of lakes, ponds and streams given in 
the report, are those found on the Stoddard map of the 
Adirondack wilderness. 

Brook trout are not found in the following 
waters : Metcalf, and T Lakes, tributaries of west 
Canada Creek ; Spectacle, Dexter, Spy, Oxbow, Coal, 
Scuts, Willis, Murphy, Warner, Remson and Bug 
Lakes. All others are supposed to contain them. 
Lake trout, commonly called salmon trout are not 
found in the following waters ; None of the lakes of 
West Canada Creek except Spruce ; Indian, Ferris, 
Christian, Morehouse, Jerseyfield, Goodluck, OxBow, 
Metcalf, Sheriff, Canada, Coal, Willis, Nicks, Little 
Woodhull, Stone Dam, Wilmurt and the Eagle Chain 
of Lakes. By implication the other lakes in the Adi- 
rondacks do contain lake trout. 

Black bass are found in Raquette, Forked, 
White, Fourth, Bisby, Sucker, the Blue Mountain 
Chain and the Fulton Chain of Lakes, Moose and 
Black rivers. The RainbO'W (California) trout have 
been placed in FultonChain, Bisby , Woodhull, Pleasant, 
Round Horn, and Jones Lakes, Moose, Oswegatchie 
and Black Rivers, and Silver Lake. liand-locked 
salmon have been planted in Woodhull, Mud, Sand, 
Little Moose and the Fulton Chain of Lakes. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 235 

You may kill Rujjlcd Grouse and Woodcock, 
August 15th to January ist. 

Wildfowl, September ist to May ist. 

Squirrels, black and gray, September ist to Janu- 
ary ist. 

Hares and Rabbits, not protected. 

Meadow Larks, November ist to January ist. 

Wilsoii s or English Snipe, September ist to Janu- 
ary ist. 

Deer, August 15th to November ist, but no person 
shall kill or .take alive more than two deer in one sea- 
son. May be hunted with dogs from loth September 
to loth October only. Dogs not allowed in St. Law- 
rence County at any time. No fawns shall be killed 
at any time. Not more than one deer shall be trans- 
ported, and then only when accompanied by owner. 
The violation of any of these provisions is a misde- 
meanor, with an ad'di.ional penalt}^ of $100 for each 
violation. 

All Trout, except Lake Trout, Aj^ril 15th to Sep- 
tember ist. 

'Lake Trout and Land-locked Salni07i, May ist to 
October ist. Legal length of all trout and land- 
locked salmon, six inches. 

Fishing, through the ice in waters inhabited by 
trout, Lake trout or Land-locked salmon is forbidden. 

Black Bass, May 30th to January ist, except in 
Lake George, August ist to January 1st. Legal 
length of black bass eight inches. 

Muscalonge, May 30th to January ist. 

Salmon, which means the Sea Salmon, March ist to 
August 1 5th. Cannot be netted and the legal length 
is 18 inches. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

How TO Reach The Adirondacks. 
FROM NEW YORK. 

From Grand Central Station I'ia New York 
Central & Hudson River Railroad to Troy, Delaware 
& Hudson Railroad to Saratoga and the north by- 
Gateways 7, 3, 2 and i. See ]nap, page 211. Special 
fast trains leave Grand Central Station for Saratoga 
and Lake George during the season, morning and 
afternoon, one leaving at 3. 30 p.m. reaches. Saratoga at 
6.40, and Saturday night runs through to Lake 
George, returning Sunday night to connect with 
sleeper south. A train leaving at 6. 25 p.m. with through 
Wagner Buffet sleeping cars attached, connects early 
in the morning at Westport with stages for Eliz- 
abethtown and Keene Valley; at Port Kent for 
Au Sable Chasm, and at Plattsburgli with trains 
for Saranac Lake and Lake Placid. 

From Grand Central Station via N. Y. C. & 
H. R. to Albany, thence to Gateways 8 and 9, run- 
ning through without change to Fulton Chain, 
Childwold, the Saranac Lakes, Paul Smith's 
Loon Lake and beyond. For time tables or any de- 
sired information regarding either of the above routes 
address George H. Daniels, G. P. A., Grand Central 
Station, New York. See page 272. 

From Desbrosses St. Pier, North River, by 
Day Boats, "Albany" and " New York," daily at 
8.40 A. M. , arriving at Albany about 6 p. m., thence 
as above to Gateways. During the season, fast 
trains run to and f rom 'Sarato.2:a to connect with these 
boats, and on Saturday night run through t ) Lake 
George. Fare, $2. For particulars address F. B. 
Hibbard, G. P. A.. Desbrosses Street Pier, New 
York. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 237 

From Pier 41, Nortli River (Foot of Canal 
St.), Peoples' Line Steamers '-Drew" and "Dean 
Richmond," every week day at 6 p. m. for Albany, 
thence to Gateways as above. Fare $1.50. Meals 
are served on the European plan. M. B. Waters, 
G. P. A., Albany, N. Y. See page 273. 

From Foot Christoplier St., North River, by 
Citizens' Line Steamers "Saratoga" and "City of 
Troy," every evening, except Saturday, at 6 p. M., 
for Troy, thence to Gateways as above. Fare $1. 50. 
Meals on European plan. For staterooms, or par- 
ticulars address Geo. W. Gibson, G.P.A., Troy, N.Y. 
FROM WASHINGTON. 

By Pennsylvania Railroad to Pbiladelpllia and 
Jersey City, West Shore Railroad to Albany, 
thence to Gateways as above. During the season of 
summer travel through cars run from Washington to 
Saratoga. 
FROM BINGHAMTON. 

By Albany & Susquehanna Railroad to Albany, 
thence via N. Y. C. to Western Gateways or by the 
D. & H. to Saratoga and east side resorts. The 
Delaware & Hudson Railroad reaches the south 
and east side resorts. During the season of pleasure 
travel extra fast trains are run from Albany and Troy to 
Saratoga, Lake George, Plattsburgh and Montreal, 
with through Wagner buffet, sleeping and drawing 
room cars attached. Nortbern connections are 
made at Mechanicville with the Fitcbburgb Rail- 
road for points east and west ; at Saratoga with 
Adirondack railroad for Luzerne, Schroon Lake and 
Blue Mountain Lake (see Gateway No. 7) ; at Cald- 
"well with steamers on Lake George ; at Wbiteball 
with trains for Rutland and the east ; at Ticon- 
deroga with branch road to foot of Lake George ; 
at Crown Point with C. P. I. Co.'s railway (Gate- 
way No. 4) ; at Westport with stages for Elizabeth- 



238 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

town and Keene Valley (Gateway No. 3) ; at Port 
Kent with traino for Au Sable Chasm and Keese- 
ville (Gateway No. 2) ; at Plattsburgll with Au 
Sable Branch and Chateaugay railroads (Gateway 
No. i) for the Chateaugay, Saranac and St. Regis 
Lakes and Lake Placid, and at Rouses Point with 
Central Vermont Railroad for the east, and the O. & 
L. C. road to points west. For particulars relating to 
the running of trains, address J. W. Burdick, G.P.A., 
Albany, N. Y. See page 271. 
FROM BOSTON. 

By Fitchburgh Railroad to Mechanicville and 
western Gateways, or to Saratoga and the north, 

By Fitchburg and Central Vermont Railroads to 
Burlington and by Champlain Steamers to 
gateways i, 2, 3 and 4. 

For particulars relating to the Champlain 
Steamers see page 275 ; Chateaugay Railroad. 
see page 270. Central Vermnt R. R. see page 273. 
FROM THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

To Burlington and gateways as above, or by 
Portland & Ogdensburgh R. R. to Rouses' Point, 
and by O. & L. C. R. R. to Malone, thence by A* 
& St. L. road to central points. 
FROM MONTREAL. 

Via Grand Trunk R. R. to Rouses' Point by D. & 
H. to East Side Gateways. 

Via. Grand Trunk and St. L. & A. to Malone via. 
Coteau, thence to central resorts via. the A. & St. L. 
FROM THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 

St. Lawrence River steamers to Ogdensburgh, 
thence by O. & L. C. east to Malone for A. & St, L. 
road, or to Rouses' Point for east side gateways. 
FROM NIAGARA FALLS. 

Via. N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R. to Herkimer, thence 
via. A. & St. L. ; or to Schenectady and by D. & 
H. to Saratoga and east side gateways. 



APPENDIX. 

It is intended, that in the following pages will be 
given, in compact form, a list of all tlie hotels and 
boarding-liouses of the Adirondacks with 

capacity, price for board by day and week, time 
of opening and closing, name of proprietor 
and post-office address, with other particulars of 
interest to the public. To this end all hotel keep- 
ers and those wishing to keep boarders are requested 
to send annually before May i, information as above, 
with particulars as to transportation, (stating price and 
kind of conveyance if not already given in these 
pages) and the substance of such information will be 
published free in the current number of the book. 

This Book is revised and published annually, and, 
as it is impossible for the writer to visit every portion 
of the Wilderness before publication, every year, it 
will be considered a favor if anyone noting errors or 
omissions of importance will call attention to the fact 
either in person or by letter. 



INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 

Hotels Alphabetically Arranged. 



Adirondack House 261 

Adirondack Inn, The, 
Schroon Lake. Train & 
O'Connor. 100. $2.5o-$3d. 
$io-$i8 w. Special June 

and September 

Adirondack Lodge 260 

Algonquin, The, Saranac 
Lake. John Harding, 

$3-8-4 d. $i5-$25 w 

Ampersand, Hotel 252 

Antlers, The 267 

Ayers, Hotel 71 

Bald Mountain House 256 

Banner House 250 

Berkeley, The 254 

Blue Mountain House. . .. 267 
Blue Mountain Lake 

House 266 

Brightside-on-Raquette. . 266 

Burleigh Hotel 246 

Camp Craig, Big Moose, 
H. H. Covey, 35. $3 d. 
$14 w. May I to Nov. 

2 miles from Big Moose 
Station. Buckboard 
special 

Cascade Lake House . . . 259 
Chain Lake House, Indi- 
an Lake. Hutchins & 
Porter. 25. $2 d. $10.50 
w. including use of 
boat. 27 miles from N. 
Creek. Private con- 
veyance carrying i, 2 or 

3 persons $6. Built in 



Champlain Hotel 249 

Chateaugay,The, Merrill. 
Chas. W. Backus. 75, 
$2.5o-$3 d. $12-117.50 w. 

July I to Oct. 15 

Chester Hotel 265 

Childwold Park House.. 255 
Crystal Spring House, 
Bloomingdale. Robe- 
son & Shariand. 50. 
$2.50 d. $io-$i7.5ow. All 
the year. 



Edgewood Inn 257 

Elmwood Farm Cottage, 
Jay, N. Y. F. J. Bald- 
win. 10. $2 d. $7-$io w. 
All the year. Stage, 
Au Sable Chasm, $2 . . . 

Fenton House 256 

Flume Cottage 261 

Grand View House 258 

Grove House 269 

Grove Point House 264 

Hemlocks, The 263B 

Higby Camp, Big Moose. 
J. H. Higby. 30. $2.50 d. 
$io.5o-$i4 w. May i to 
Dec. Big Moose Station 
2 miles. Buckboard 

Special 

Hotel DelMonte.. 251 

Hotel Douglas, Douglas. 
John L. Mock. 60. $2 d. 
$8-$i2 w. June 15 to Oct. 

Hotel Kenmore 243 

Hotel Wawbeek 279 

Hundred Island House.. 244 

Indian Point House 250 

Ladd's 254 

Lake House, Crown Point 246 
Lake Placid House. Lake 
Placid. Geo. W. Bald- 
win. 150. $3d. $i2-$i8w. 
Special June and Sept. 

Open June i to Oct 

Lake Pleasant Inn, Lake 
Pleasant. J. D. Morley. 
75. $2 d. $9-$i5 w. All 

the year 

Lake View House 248 

Leland House 264 

Linwood Cottage, Sara- 
nac Lake. Frank A. 
Mantz. 25. $io-$i5 w. 

All the year 

Loon Lake House, Loon 
Lake, F. W. Chase. 325. 
$4-$5 d. $i7-5o-$35 W. 

June I to Oct 

Mansion House 244 



INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 



241 



Maplewood Inn, Eliza- 
bethtown, G. W. Jen- 
kins. 100. $2-$3 d. $10- 

$14 w. All the year 

Marion House 245 

Merrill House 250 

Mirror Lake Hotel 253 

Moose River House .... 256 
Mountain View House... 259 

North h iver Hotel 206 

Ondawa, The 263C 

Paul Smith's, Paul 
Smith's, N. Y. Paul 
Smith Hotel Co. 500. 

$4-$5d. $2i-$30 w 

Pearl Point 245 

Pond View House 256 

Pottersville Hotel 265 

Prospect House. Blue 
Mt. Lake. Howard M. 
Durant. W. T. Graff, 
Manager. $500. $4-$5 d. 

$2i-$3o. June 25 to Oct 

Pyramid Lake House .. 263C 

Rainbow Inn 251 

Ralph's 250 

k ay Brook Hjuse 259 

Re Iside Camp 255 

K ichards House 247 



Riverside Inn, Saranac 
Lake, Wallace Murrey. 

75. *3 d. |ii4-$25 w 

Ruisseaumont 25S 

Sagamore. Long Lake. 
E. Butler. 250. $3.50 d. 
$t4-$25W. All the year. 268 

Saranac Inn 254 

St. Hubert's Inn 262 

St. Hu bert's Inn, Beede's. 
Beede & Houghton. 300. 
$4-$5 d. Si7-5o-$3i-5o W. 

July I to ». ct 262 

Strong's, Dr 263B 

Tahawus House 261 

Taylor H ouse 264 

Tromblee's 247 

Undercliff... 258 

Watch Rock, Adirondack, 
George Cecil. 150. $3.50 
d. $i4-$2o w. June to 

Oct 265 

Wayside Inn . . 263A 

Westport Inn 247 

"Westport," The, West- 
port, N. Y., Geo. Howe, 
Jr. $2 d. $8-8^10 w. 

Whiteface Inn 258 

Windsor, The, Saratoga.. 242 



Railroads.— Chateaugay 270 ; Central Vermont, 273; Dela- 
ware & Hudson, 271 ; N. Y. C. & H. R., 272 ; Saranac & Lake 
Placid, 253. 

Stage Lines. — Adirondack, 257 ; Leavitt, 257. 

Steamboats.— Blue Mountain Lake Steamers, 274 ; Clyde 
Line, 276 ; Lake Champlain, 275 ; Lake George, 275 ; Peoples' 
Evening Line, 273. 

Books, etc.— "Camp Life," 263-B ; "Forest and Stream,'' 
278 ; '' Gameland," 273 ; " News " series, 277. 

Fancy Goods.— Peyser & Brother, 263-C. Fire Arms — 
263-A. Livery.— Fowler's, Saranac Lake, 259. Mapof Adi 
rondack Wilderness, 276. Photograpbic.—" Kodak," 2S0 ; 
Photographer, 269. Real Estate.— Long Lake, 269 ; Lake 
Placid, 259 ; Saratoga Springs, 242. 



"THE ADIRONDACKS 

AND THEM GLORIFIED," 

{From the New York Mail and Express 
June 9th, 1894.) 

'♦Close upon the heels of Murray 
came S. R. Stoddard, with his camera, 
his note book and his brush, all of which 
he has used continuously for twenty- 
three years to make the fame of the 
Adirondack Wilderness known to the 
outside world. Stoddard has done even 
more than Hurray to publish the results 
of his discoveries, for in guide books, on 
his maps, in his marvelous photographs, 
on the lecture platform, on the screen, 
in poetry and in song, he has for nearly 
a quarter of a century preached the 
Adirondacks, and them glorified." 



GUSDE BOOKS AND MAPS 

PUBLISHED BY S. R. STODDARD, GLENS FALLS, N. Y. 

GUIDE BOOKS 

THE ADIRONDACKS ILLUSTRATED.— "Diamond" 

edition. 396 pages. Paper cover, 25 cents. Cloth. oO 
cents. 

Albany Evening Journal,.— " Routes, fares to different 
points, time-tables, maps, guides, and whatever else the trav- 
eler is most concerned in knowing, are treated clearly and 
intelligently." 

New York Times.—" A book that may be read through 
from beginning to end at any time, and be found full of in- 
teresting reading matter." 

Troy Times.—" A delightful book, well spiced with anecdote 
and adventure." 

SARATOGA, LAKE GEORGE AND LAKE CHAM- 
PLAIN, historical and descriptive, 16 mo., 200 pages. 
Paper cover, 25 cents. Contains colored map three feet 
long, outline cuts of mountains, islands, etc. , as seen from 
the pa^sing steamer. 

MAPS 

THE ADIRONDACK WILDERNESS.— Pocket edition 
on map-bond paper, in cloth cover, |l .00. Linen backed, 
$1.50. 

Forest and Stream.—" It is the most complete map of 
the Adirondack region ever published, and is just what is 
wanted by a party intending to camp out." 

Shooting AND Fishing. — "State officers consult it and 
the Fish Commissioners depend upon it for use of the State 
Game Protectors." 

LAKE GEORGE. — Scale 1 mile to an inch. Pocket 
edition on map-bond paper, cloth cover, 50 cents. 
Approved and adopted by the State Engineer and Sur- 
veyor in 1880. 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN.— Scale 2i miles to an inch, 
with smaller maps of the Richelieu River, and routes 
and distances to important poinis. Pocket edition on 
map-bond paper, cloth cover, 50 cents 

SENT POSTPAID ON RECEIPT OF PRICE. 



BOOKS OF PICTURES. 

PUBLISHED BY S. R. STODDARD, GLENS FALLS, N. Y. 

LAKE GEORGE. Twelve photogravure plates 10x12 
inches, comprising over 50 choice bits of Lake George 
scenery. Bound in torchon board, with illuminated 
title, 12.00. AMONG THE MOUNTAINS OF THE 
ADIRONDACKS.— Ten plates. Same style and size 
as Lake George, $2.00. THROUGH THE LAKE 
COUNTRY OF THE ADIRONDACKS.— Same as 
above, $2.00. CAMP LIFE.— Same as above, $2.00. 
THE HUDSON RIVER, FROM ITS SOURCE TO 
THE SEA.— Same as above, $2.00.. AU SABLE 
CHASM. — ^^hctogravures, twelve pages of pictures, 
5^x7 inches. Illuminated title. In mailing box 50 
cents. 

SOUVENIRS OF THE NORTH. (Contains from eighteen 
to thirty representative views of sections indicated by their 
titles, reproduced by the Photo-Gravure Process. Size 
5^x7 inches ; price 75 cents each.) Saratoga, Lake George, 
Blue Mountain Lake, Raquette Lake, Long Lake, Tupper Lake 
Region, Luzerne and Schroon Lake, Wild Lakes of the 
Adirondacks, (Au Sable Lakes, Tear-of-the-clouds, Ava- 
lanche, Golden, Sandford, Henderson, etc.), Elizabeth- 
town and Keene Valley, North Elba and beyond, Lake Placid, 
The Saranac Lakes, Winter at Saranac Lake, Glens Falls, 
Howe's Cave. Li mailing box, 75 cents each. 

SENT POSTPAID ON RECEIPT OF PRICE, 



5. R. STODDARD'S 

ILLUSTRATED LECTURES, 

Under the Management of riajor J. B. POfld, Everett Mouse, New York. 
SUBJECTS: 

" Pictured Adirondacks," 

lU deep ri\'er^ aiul wimliiij: streams ; its hioaJ lakes and clustered »ionds ; its dark gorges ; its wild glcu8 , its 

high uiouiitaiiis aiui it^s Im-ely valleys ; its gateways, roads and wildwood trails ; its noted hunters and 

itt) famous guides ; its celebrated Iiotels and summer camps; how they live in the woods ; 

Ixunting and fishing ; camp fires and camping scenes ; pictures by sun-light and flash- 

lieht, in Sun^mer and Winter, by night ami by day ; its East ; its West ; its 

North ; its South. 

The Hudspn River, 

" From the ^fountains to tiic t^ea." An illustrated poem, tracing the great river from its source in the mountains 

until it reaches the open couiitry , thence onward until it looaea itself in the ocean. On itiis thread i& 

strving pictures of wood life, and views along the historic stream, until it ends with the picture 

which M., Bartholdi declares is the only one he ever saw worthy of the subject, 

Mr. Stoddard's night scene, made with magnesium fla^ih light, o*" 

"Liberty Enlightening the World." 

"Across the Continent," 

Its 8i>reading plains ; its teeming grain fields and it^ groat r.mches , its cow-boys and its buflaloes ; its ba<i Indians 
and the way they live ; its great mountains ; its snowy heights; its wild forests and its Western slope. 

"Alaska, the Land of Ice," 

lis queer people,, their customs and their homes, its tur> : its tisheriey and it« gold ; its land-locked seas , it** 
mighty glaciers and it.< frozen plains. 

"The Wonderful White City of '93." 

Daily TimeSi Glens Vails. — *' Every view is a beautiful picture, many of them recalliiig in composition Claude 
Lorraine's and Turner's masterpieces." Sunday News. — '* They are marvels of beauty, to say nothing 
about the interests and instruction they convey." Morning Star. — '* There are no dry or un- 
interesting views ; there are no views taken from had points of view. Each one is n 
picture worthy of being reproducetl on canvas. 

SEASON OF 1893-4. 

Mr. Stoddard's pictures are the most beautiful ever shown before an American audience, 
and I do not bejieve they are equalled in any part of the world.— J. B. POND. 



THE HUDSON RIVER. 




FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA' 

An illustrated poem bv S. R, STODDARD. 



INTRODUCTION^ 

The binh of « con- 
linent. Among the 
Great Peaks. Tahawus. 
the Cloud PiercCT. Tear 
Clouds. 

/the poem.— Ti'sloiy of the Hudson. 
^ ^ ^^ cradle among the 

muuntains. 

Whei* the mow 

Comei M»1y, fominR in mid-air 
Like ipUDlerrd Rtms. acd fsUlng ther» 
rindt re»i, while yet lo Auiumn'* dye* 
T>i« T»ll«y> blaie like •unlet eWlefc" 
The infant Mream "A baby's tuuch 
piixhi change its course." ■ II iluubles ind 
turns through the charp edticd griss." *lhe 
Bwakening, *' Dashes and flashes and 
breaks into, song." " It runs where tvery 
bush and «r*re is filled with sweet bird- 
melody." "IhruuKh paihles.* wood." *-U8 
lacing waters fume and fret." " From 
golden hcrghi to ptirple deep." • • • 
" The timid fawn, with spot of silk and eyir« 
of dawn." The hunter's camp-fire. Survey- 
on.'' camp at night, (iuides and game. 
The first 



FalU. The mid-stream piers and lumber 
galore. "Mills that stand on the solid 
land." "Shining plates with the biting 
tangs." The Cataxact's head. The curious 
story the rocks tell. Hawkcyc's Cave. Cora 
and Uncas. *' Past Rapid and Cauract, 
Furnace and 



.^^?^^r?C'^ 




•■Skidded** logs Lumbermen's camp. 
An interior at night. Smoke ?" I've heard 
people say you could mould it like clay." 
The mountain trail. " Where Wood and 
Open meet "A strange new creature on 
Its tide" " Waters cold and deep." lake 
Colden. Indian Pas.*. The ruined village 
among the mountains. 

•' From the wavering edge o( the Great 
Divide." " From the western land whence 
the Cedar flows." " h sees strange sights 
as the gates unclose " "A soider's web." 
The stately Schroon. " It tosses great logs 
to the left and righ:." Banks that melt. 
Luteme. " Where bright Sacandaga comes 
out of the we*t" 'Where the Nation's 
Soldier came to die '" The Big Boom. 
A pictyre of life- The Feeder Dam. Glens 







_JX 


Mill. 


' The great 




^ 


"^ 


carry 
Jenn 


rg place. 
e McCrea. 


Junction 


wiib 


the Moha 


Old Saratoga and 
its Monument. 
wk. Watcrford. 


The State Dam 


where 







i»die. 



iulsc 



And i««1> the lirtt thrtib 

•Modern Troy. " Forges loudly 
ing.*" •• In fiilul flash and shadow. 
Ihou^and-poundcr. *■ Uncle Sammv 
Welcome to All Creation. 

Albany. The Capitol. " Flower cr 
they hold the fonress." " Where the cu/ 










front is teeming." The Journey southward. 
"The city, slowly fading in the blue 
antl purplr distance." "Gliding like 
a bird »-f passage." I he CatskillS. 
'• Swift the way and quirfc its changes."* 
Poughkcepsie. " Newburgh climbs the 
western hillside." "Washington's head- 
qQarters. " He who stood when others 
faltered." "The symbol of his greatness " 
— and its modern prototype. 

Storm King. Cro' Nest, fireakneek^ 
Mount Taurus. Old Fort Putnam — 
*■ Crumbling now in snowy ruins." The 
river of the Nonh. " Southward turn and 
see It vanish." West Point. Thc.\-lion*9 
school fuT soldiers. The Campus. Candi* 

" Re<)ul*ite»- BOtttyleor Rnlih— 



^|. 



$^^^0 




Sandwich day. 
" Verdant Plebe and 
Lordly Senior." 
Grant Hall. Cadets 
at Dinner. " Drilled 
to eat and drink 
like Chnsiians."- 
" Drilled to step like oeat of clock-work." 
Summer Camp. Sunday morning Inspec- 
tion. Guard mounting. Setting-up driU. 
Anillery Practice. 
Broad-5word pra 
" Drilled to strike and ask 
no quaner " Cavalry drill. 
Mounting— by proxy. 

" Laic .-teeth ■ndhceUMltdalfliag— 
Mount like caU ud ride ><kc devlU." 
Sheridan. Sherman. " Men whom earth 
delighisto honor." " Still the river Howiog 
souinwaro sweeps along tnc rocky head- 
lands'" Anthony's Nost'. State Camp at 
Peckskill. " Broader now the River's 
reaches; Salt it5 breath with winds of 
Ocean.' Stony Pcnni- •' Haverslraw with 
plain of amber." *' Rockland's cup upon 
the 



••And ti 



U 



r«lley 



D Zee outsirttching as 
hilU draw backward.*' 
The Palisades. " "I owering 
follow, league on league along 
the pathway." *' Where the 
clouds of smoke, uprising, ever 
))anK above tlic City " 
Ihc flags of every n; 
countless numbers 
upstanding, lift* • 



breadcns, spreads afar 

the drcUsK 




and go in ' 
I'asi where Liberty 
high her- fUming 



■• PaM ihe H»i bo>*. narrow gateway 

Past the loM , (Dcto9tn£ islands 

And, at l3Bi. the mlghiy jOceaDt** 

RE MINISCE NT -A morning 

'>-— ^ :—. ;-^^ ,^^n o( (j,e tr 

'tains. Birthplace of jibe Infant Hud- 
ton A dashing stream at mij-day 
A great river under gIo*ing skies 
SuDsct. Night, and "'Libeny Enlighi- 
ning the WorM.* 




©—JOSEPH FOOlIiEH,-^ 



(ollar (o. 




p5EPrll^:VFALL5,Ny. y 



-;^UeM5 f^' 




Manufacturers 

OF 

Negligee and 
White Shirts. 

Men's Linen 

Collars and 
Cuffs. 

Paper Boxes. 



FACTORY AND LAUNDRY AT 

Glens Falls, H- V. 



242F 



* 
* 



/ 



(( 





FOWLER 



Is a household word 
throughout Northern New York. 

A quarter of a century of upright 

dealing, backed up by the largest 

stock kept outside of the large cities, 
has made him the ac- 
knowledged leader 
in Dry Goods, Carpets 
and Cloaks, for the 
season of 1894. 

He has added a large 
store and filled it to over- "^ ' ' 

flowing with the best quality 
of Domestic Goods. Linens, Wash 
Goods of all descriptions, Hosiery, Under- 
wear, Kid Gloves, &c. 
242G 






-- *' s. ^' 




In Our - - - 
Cloak Department, 

(Now one of the finest in 
the State and upon the 
ground floor), 

We are showing the most 
complete line of all the 
Novelties as fast as they 
appear. 

® ® © ® 

Our Carpet Department - - - 

- - - Cannot be Equalled. 

It embraces all the best makes of Axminster, 
Weltons, Moquettes, Body Brussels, Tapestry 
Brussels, Ingrains and Mattings. 

Special Prices Made to Hotels. 
We send samples of all kinds of goods from which 
samples can be cut. 

Our Mail Order Department is so thoroughly systemized 
as to insure prompt attention. 

130 & 132 Glen Street, 
GLENS FALLS, NEW YORK. 

242H 



THE mmm mm, 
mnmn, n. i. 

A quiet hotel of the best class Late din- 
ners. White servants exclusively. Will 
remain open until October 1st. Send 

for illustrated pamphlet 
To 

fl. G. SJVIVTH, Managetr. 

mm REHL ESTHTE. 

Concerning the better class of real estate at 
Saratoga for sale or to rent, trustworthy in- 
formation may be obtained of 

Lester Brotlfgrs, 
E^eal Estate Broiler's, 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y. 

2421 



I /'7 • « 



,„ifii!»"::ii,uiT 



<f IP 
if- *^^ 








HOTEL KENMORE. 

THE LEADING HOTEL OF 

AL BANY. N . Y. 



Special attention given to tourists. Centrally located. Con- 
venient to State Capitol, other public buildings 
and places of interest. 



Free Omnibusses in AUendance at all Trains and Boats. 



H. J. ROCKWELL, Proprietor. F. W. ROCKWELL, Manager. 

243 







HUNDRED ISLAND HOUSE, 



SHELVING ROCK, N. Y. 



MISS JENNIE BRADLEY, Lessee, 
MISS M. J. GROERK, Manager. 

Rates, Sio to $17.50 per week; $2.50 to $3 per day. Post 
Office in the house. Particular attention given to invalids. 
Telegraph office within five minutes' walk. Fresh milk and 
vegetables from Shelving Rock Farm. 

JV[flflSIOH HotiSE, 
ELizABEmfovVN, N. y. 

Situated at the gateway to the popular summer resorts in 
the Adirondacks, seven miles from Westport, 600 feet above 
tide water. Finest mountain scenery, purest air and best 
water. No malaria, no hay fever. Tables unsurpassed, ap- 
pointments modern, sanitary arrangements perfect. Write 
for circular. Open all the vear. Rates, $2.50 to $3.00 per day; 
$10.50 to $17.50 per week. O Kellogg's stages meet all train's. 
Private conveyances can be procured at all times by giving 
notice in advance by mail or telegraph. 

Mrs. S. J. LAMSON & CO., Proprietors. 



244 



THE MARION HOaSE, 

12AKE GEORSE, N. Y. 

Located on the west shore of the lake, about six miles north 
of Caldwell ; stands on a slight eminence, a little removed 
from the water ; commands a view of the broadest portion of 
the lake. 

Elevator, Electric Lights, Gas, Electric Bells, Telegraph in the house. 

Four daily inails ; sanitary conditions perfect ; pure 

spring water. 

Jersey Milk, Cream and Vegetables from the Hotel Farm. 

Delightful drives. Good fishing. Every facility for amusement 
Accommodatioiis for 400 Guests. 

Rates $3.50 per day ; $14 to $25 per week. Send for 
illustrated book. 

D. W. SHERMAN, Proprietor. 
H. I.. SUEKMAN, Manager. 

Address at Glens Falls until June lo, after that date. 
West Side, Warren Co. 

f DARL iOINT lOUSE. 

Lake George, N. Y. 

One of the leading hotels at the Lake. Twelve miles from 
Caldwell, on the east side, in the 

MOST ATTRACTIVE PART OF THE LAKE, 

known as the "Narrows." It has all the requisites for 
pleasure seekers, and its 

FLEET OF SAIL AND ROW BOATS 

is the largest on the lake. 
Capacity, 150. Telegraph in the house. Four daily mails. 
Rates, $3.50 per day ; $12 to $21 per week. 

D. \ir. SHERMAN, Proprietor. 

245 



Hotel Burleigh/'rr^' 

E. J. WOOD, Proprietor. 

This new and elegant hotel is pleasantly located midway 
between Lake Clianiplain and Lake George. 

The building is of brick, 80x40, 4 stories above the base- 
ment. Mansard roof, 100 commodious rooms, newly fur- 
nished and supplied with an abundance of Lake George 
water, heated by steam, lighted by electric light, hot 
and cold water baths, complete fire protection on each floor. 
All the appointments are first-class. Burleigh House is within 
three hours ride of Schioon Lake. Stage daily. Shortest 
and most directway to the Adirondacks. 

Attractions include many points of historic interest 
within short I'ange of this hotel, among which are the exten- 
sive fortifications of FORT TICONDEROGA, built by the 
French in 1755, and surrendered to Col. Ethan Allen. May 10th, 
1775, who demanded it " in the name of the Great Jehovah and 
the Continental Congress." 

Mount Hope,where heavy redoubts and fortifications were 
made upon which to erect batteries to bear upon the fort. 

Mount Defiance, which rises 750 feet above Lake Cham- 
plain. Gen. Burgoyne ascended this mountain from the north, 
July 4, 1777, erected a battery of heavy guns upon its summit, 
completely commanding the Fort and dislodged the Americans. 

Lake George (the "Como" of America), with its many 
delightful resorts and thousand enchanting views. 

Lord Howe's Monument, erected near where he was 
wounded by a French scout. 

Fort Frederick, built by the French, 1731, much of which 
remains in a state of good preservation. And many other 
localities of interest. 

FIRST-CLASS LIVERY connected with the house. GOOD 
BOATING within a few minutes walk on either lake. Fine 
opportunity for fishing, where tons of trout and bass are 
annually taken. Hunting grounds between Lake Pharaoh and 
George, abound with deer and small game. Telegraph and ex- 
press office in the house. Rates of board $10 to $20 per week. 
Transient, $2.50 per day. 

LAKE CMAMPl^AIN 

LAKE HOUSE, Crown Point N.Y. 

M. CILLICAN, PROPRIETOR. 

Rates, $2.00 per day; $6 to $8 per week. Splendid boating 
and fishing, riding and driving. Free carriage to boats and 
trains. 

246 



The WESTPORT INN, 

Westport on Lake Champlain, N. Y. 

Mrs. 0. 0. DANIELL, Manager. Mrs. HENRY LYON, Asst. 

A thoroughly, well appointed h'>use, with good table, mountain spring 
water and excellent drainage, wide piazzas, with a superb view of the 
Lake and Mountains. 

Capacity 150. Hates, $3 to $4 per day, $10.00 to $21.00 per week. 

Good boating, fishing and fine drives. Livery stable near the house. 

It is within two minutes walk of the Lake Champlain Transportation 
Company's wharf, two minutes from the Library and Post Ofiice, and ten 
minutes drive from the Telegraph Office and Depot of the D. & H. R. R. 

Stages to and from interior points in the Adirondacks twice daily. 

ADDRESS, NA/ EST PORT, IM. Y. 

D,/^TT xro^o IS 



*fHE RICHARDS 

WESfPORf, ESSEX (0., H. i. 

This well known house is located at the head of one of the 
most beautiful bays on the continent, and commands an ex- 
tensive view of Lake Champlain and the Green Mountains 
of Vermont. 

Its advantages for fishing are unexcelled, and will be 
appreciated by those who are fond of the sport. Boats 
furnished guests on application. 

There is no Malaria here. The air is bracing and the 
water pure and good. 

There are charming drives in the vicinity ; a grood livery 

connected with the house. Those who wish to ride can be 
furnished with good saddle horses. 

Free coaches to all trains and boats. Telegraph 
office in house. 

Rates for board, $2 per day ; $8 to $12 per week. 

M. A. CLARK, Prop , Westport, Essex Co., N. Y. 

XDr^lVIRI FR'^ HSQUGTTe KIYER, south 
1 lAwl'^IDLLlL 0» end of Sweeney Carry. 
Daily Mail and Express to Saranac Lake. Splendid River 
FLshing. BOARD, $10 per week ; $2 per day. OPEN MAY 
ist to NOVEMBER ist. Eight Miles from Tupper Lake 
Station, A. & St. L. R. R. P. O. Address, 

OLIVER TROMBLEE, Wawbeek, N. Y. 

247 





Saratoga, 

Lal^e George, 

Lal^e Cliarriplairi, 

Ausable Chasm. 

If you visit any, 

do not miss the latter. 

DIRECT RAILROAD CONNECTIONS WITH 
D & H. R. R. AND LAKE CHAMPLAIN 

STEAMERS. 
STOP-OVER PRIVILEGES ALLOWED. 

© ® ® 

Lal^e View t^odsQ 

UNDER SAME MANAGEMENT. 

W. H. TRACY, Proprietor. 

248 



"The Hotel Ghamplain" 

(LAKE CHAMPLAIN.) 

On the line of the Delaware & Hudson R. R., 
Three Hiles South of Plattsburgh, N. Y. 



THE SUPERB 

SUnnER HOTEL 

OF THE NORTH. 

The northern tour is not complete 
without a visit to the ^* Cham- 
plain," the most desirable and 
convenient stopping place 
en-route. 

Strictly First-Class. 



O. D. SEAVEY, nanager. 



249 



rVrtLiarllO chateaucaylake, 
Open June 1 5th to October. 

Rates $3 per day; $12 50 to $17.50 per week. 
Special Eates for ramilies. 

J. W. HUTTON, - Proprietor. 

Refitted and refurnished thi-oughout. Gives a magnificent 
view of the entire lake and twenty surrounding peaks. 2000 
ft, above the sea ! The most healthful of summer resorts. Post 
office and Telegraph office in the house. Good Livery. Boats, 
guides and camp outfits furnished. Open Summer and Win- 
ter. Rates of Board, $2.50 per day, $io to $14 per week. Special 
rates to families for protracted stay. Open May ist to No- 
vember ist ; address, OLIVER YOUNG, Prop. 
P. O. Merrill, N. Y. 



Indian Point Hou5e, 



UPPER 

CHATEAUGAY 

LAKE. 

One of the Most Attractive Resorts in the Adirondacks fo^ 
Families and Tourists. Fine Fishing and Hunting Grounds 
in the immediate vicinity. Board, $1.50 per day, $8 to $10 per 
week. Guides and Boats at Reasonable Rates. Special at- 
tention to Sportsman Correspondence Solicited. 

R. M. SHUTTS, Merrill, Clinton Co., N. Y. 



BanneF ^Q^i>e 



ON THE LOWER 
CHATEAUGAY LAKE. 

Especially suited for families and those who wish a quiet 
and restful vacation. Elevation 1600 feet. No Malaria, no 
Hay Fever. Daily Mails. Telegraph office in the house. 
RATES, S2.50 per day, $10 to $15 per week. OPEN June i to 
November i. Address for particulars 

J. S. KIRBY, Chateaugay Lake, N. Y. 

250 



ADIRONDACK®. 
J. M. WARDNER, Prop. P. O. Rainbow, N. Y. 



THE BEST HUNTING, BOATING AND FISHING 
GROUNDS TO BE FOUND IN THE ADIRONDACKS. RE- 
CENT ADDITIONS AND IMPROVEMENTS. House new 
and commodious. Post office, telegraph and telephone office 
in the house. Mails daily. Parties leaving New York at 7.30 
P. M. arrive at Rainbow in time for breakfast the following 
daj''. A bountiful supply of fresh eggs, milk and vegetables 
from Rainbow farm. Board, per dav, $2 so ; per week, $10 to 
$15. RAINBOW LAKE ABOUNDS IN THE FINEST 
TROUT and aiTords the best trolling and fly fishing. It has 
been restocked with 800,000 trout the last 5 years. The largest 
lake trout on record was caught here — wt, 52 lbs. Boats, 
guides and supplies for parties camping out. Boating parties 
start within 50 feet of the house and have uninterrupted sail- 
ing through numerous lakes for over 12 miles. This is noted 
feeding ground for deer. 

jlOTEL DEL HOHTE,"":V"' 

J. E. & W. H. MEAGHER, Managers. 

Modern appointments. Commodious, well-lighted rooms. Ex 
tensive piazzas. Game and Fisli in Season. Fresh eggs 
milk, cream and vegetables in abundance. Pleasant surround 
dings in groves of pine, spruce, hemlock, balsam and cedar 

RISHIIMG, 

BOATIIMQ, 

BAXHIIMG. 

A well equipped livery and moderate prices. Capacity 100. 
Rates $2to $;^perday. $12 to $20 per week. A Health' and 
Pleasure Resort. Open Summer and Winter. 

* ADDRESS — » 

J. E. 6t m. K. mHAGHHf^, ^anagcits. 

251 



THE NEW 

Hotel Ampersand 

AND COTTAGES, 

ON LOWER SARANAC LAKE, 

ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. 

Telegraph and Post Office Address, 

Ampersand, Franklin Co., N. Y. 

THE AMPERSAND is fitted up with the most comfortable 
and modern conveniences, elevator, bath rooms, steam 
heat, open fire-places in all public rooms and most of the 
bed rooms, gas, electric bells, etc. Fresh Jersey milk and 
vegetables from the Hotel farm. It is the starting point for 
all resorts and camping spots in the Woods. One can leave 
here in the morning by boat or carriage, spend the day at 
any of the principal resorts or points of interest in the region, 
and return in the evening. The Ampersand offers special ad- 
vantages for the amusement of young people— music, tennis 
court, base ball fields, boating, riding, bathing, etc. Tally-Ho 
Coaches meet all trains at Saranac Lake, distance i mile. 
Sleeping and parlor cars on all trains. 

Transients $4 per day and upwards. Diagram of rooms 
and illustrated book free on application, other information 
cheerfully given ; Post Office and General Store in the Hotel. 
Boats, Guides, Fishing Tackle, Guns, Camp Outfits and Sup- 
plies furnished; Time Tables, Etc. Address, 

EATON & YOUNG, Managers. 

252 



ADIRONDACKS 

EDCEWOOD INN. 

Finest located house in Saranac Lake, the center of the Ad- 
irondacks. Immense forest of pines and balsam trees in rear 
of house. FIRST-CLASS TABLE. Fresh Milk and Vege- 
tables from farm connected with house. VERY FINE FISH- 
ING within live minutes walk. Excellent walks and drives. 
RATES, May and June, Sio.ooto $15.00. SPECIAL RATES 
to parties of two or more. July and August, $14.00 to $21.00 
per week. House open May ist to November. Sanitary ar- 
rangements perfect. Apply to 

WM. L. DAVIDS, Saranac Lake, N. Y. 



Saranac I Lake Placid 

KAItiKOAUDD. 

From the Great Cities to the Heart of the 
Adirondacks without change. 

Drawing-room Cars run tliroug-h to Piatt sburg-h, Mon- 
treal, Boston and New York. 
Bag-g-agre and transfer agent on aii trains approaching 

Lake Placid. 

C. E. ARNOLD, Pres't. N. F. STEWART, Sup't. 

O. WEAVER, G. P. A. 



. ADIRONDACKS. 
, LAKE PLACID, N.Y. 



MIBBOR LUKE HOTEL 

The largest hotel at Lake Placid. Oyerlooks both Lake 
Placid and Mirror Lake. Saniiary arrangement perfect. 
Water system owned by hotel Electric lights, steam 
heat, elevator, electric bells, telegraph and ticket offices, 
tennis and bowling. Accommodations for 400 gue.sts. 

Terms, $3.00 per day and upwards ; $17.50 to |35.00 
per week. For particulars address, 

CHAS. E. MARTIN, Manager. 

253 



S/^I^/^|N|/^C Iflfl 



UPPER 
SARANAC LAKE. 



Post office address, Saranac Inn, Franklin Co., N. T. 

The Country of Fish and Game and Healthful Recreation, 

Terms at the Inn, $4 per day, $17.50 to $30 per week. 

CAPACITY 125. OPEN MAY TO OCTOBER. 

Boats, Guides, Fishing Tackle, Supplies and Camp outfits 
furnished at the house. Correspondence solicited. Circulars 
and Maps sent on application. 

D. "W. RIDDLE, Manager. 

Steamers "Saranac" & "Loon'* 

run to all points on the lake, connecting with trains on the 
A. & St. L. R. R. Through tickets over this line obtainable 
from all points. 



The Berkeley, 



ADIROISIDACKS 

SARANAC 

LAKE, N. Y. 

STREETER & DENISON, Managers. 

A First-Class House. Open Fire-places, Steam Heat, Electric 

Bells, Baths, Billard Parlor, Etc. 

Fresh Vegetables from the Berkeley Farm. 

Free Carriage to all Trains. Open all the Year. 

RATES ; $2.50 to $4 per day ; $14 to $25 per week. 
Address, STREETER & DENISON, Saranac L.ake, N. Y. 

♦ ♦ I A K V t /S. M IN THE ADIRONDACKS. 



LA>l>'$"a 



Sixteen miles south of Malone- 

Y., eight miles from Moun. 

View on the A. & St. L. R. R; 

Carriages supplied when wanted. 

The house was rebuilt in 1891, is modern, pleasant and comfortable, 
several of the rooms are communicating and are thus desirable for 
fatnilies ; capacity for about 2.5 guests. 

The surrounding eountry furniikns tine hunting and Jishing. Guides supplied 
as desired. Kates, SL.'jO to $2.50 per day ; $7 to $12 per week. >'oted for Its 
freadom from fog§ nnd flios. For further particulars apply to 

R. A. LADD, Duane, Franklin Co., N. Y. 

254 



(iiildwold Park House, 

AND COTTAGKS. 
LAKE MASSAWERIE, CHILDWOLD PARK. 

Reached by the new Adirondack and St. Lawrence Line. 
Through vestibuled trains direct to Childwold Station with- 
out change from Grand Central Depot, New York. 

Is an exceedingly attractive Game and Fish Preserve, 
charmingly located in the Wilderness of the Adirondacks. 

The Park consists of upwards of five thousand acres, em- 
bracing Lake Massawepie and a £:roup of five charming 
mountain lakelets. 

The Childwold Park House was erected in 1889 by the 
owners of the Childwold Estate. It is located in a fine grove 
of majestic forest trees, between two of the Park Lakes and 
commands an uninterrupted view of Lake Massawepie. The 
House is thoroughly constructed, pleasantly and conven- 
iently arranged, and admirably adapted to promote the com- 
forts and health of its guests. The table will be supplied 
with the best the New York and Boston markets afford. 

The hunting and fishing are excellent. Canoes and experi- 
enced guides can be procured at the Hotel. 

The soil is of a gravelly nature and readily absorbs moist- 
ure. The lakes are peculiarly free from frogs. Malaria and 
Hay Fever are unknown. 

A city physician occupies a cottage in the vicinity of the 
hotel, and may be summoned at any time should his service 
be required. 

Childwold Park House is reached from Boston via Central 
Vermont R. R. From Plattsburgh via Chateaugay R. R. and 
Saranac Lake. From New York and the West, via the A. & 
St. L. R. R. 

Terms, $3 to $4 day; $15 to $28 per week. Accommodations 
for 300 guests. Modern conveniences. Open fire-places. 
Daily M^il and Telegraph at Hotel. Send for illustrated book. 
WM. F. INGOLD, Manager, Childwold, N. Y. 

EAST SIDE TUPPER LAKE. 

Hunting and fishing resort. RATES, $2 day ; $10.50 to $12 
per week. Steamer daily to Tupper Lake Station. Through 
trains to New York, $12.70. Post Office in the house. Open 
June ist to December ist. Address, 

MARTIN MOODY, Prop., Moody, Pranklin Co., N. Y, 
255 



POND vmw H0a3C, 

GALE, IM. Y. 

The Hotel will be abundantly supplied from the adjoining^ 
farm with milk, cream, fresh eggs, berries and vegetables 
and game in their season. Every effort will be made to in- 
sure the coinfort and welfare of guests. 

The Hunting and Fishing are the verj^ best. Catamount 
Pond is directly opposite the house. Boats and competent 
guides can be had at all times. Livery in connection with 
the hotel. Open the vear round. Accommodations for loo 
guests. Terms, $2 per Day; $8 to $12 per Week. 

SPECIAL RATES FOR THE SEASON. 

Address, E. P. GALE, Proprietor, GALE, N. Y. 
Railroad Facilities. The Pond View House is six miles by 
stage from Childwold Park Station, on the A. & St. L. Rail- 
road. Pullman Cars Boston to Childwold. Wagner Cars 
New York to Chidwold. 

Tenton rfousET 

BEAVER LAKE, LEWIS COUNTY, 

More Deer and Trout than in any other part of the Adiron- 
dacks. Capacity 160 guests. Cottages and ample play grounds 
make it a most desirable place for families during the sum- 
mer. As a health resort it is conceded to by at the head. 
Daily Mail. Fare to Lowville by buckboard I2. Open all the 
year. Board, $2 per Day; $9 to $10 per "Week. 

Address, CHARLES FENTON, Number Four, Lewis Co , N. T. 

mOOSE RltfER^HOfEL""rd?rdac"s.'^orthe°w'a? 

to the Fulton Chain of Lakes. Accommodations for 30 guests. 
BOARD, I2 per day ; $7 to $10 per week. Four Miles from the 
A. & St. L. Railroad at McKeever. 0. M. BARRElT, Prop. 
Address for Special Conveyance into the woods. 

BALD MOUNTAIN HOUSE, P^rAJi.'c'tfA^N. 

T8((st of lluntins' and Kisliitiff. Guides, Boats, Tackle and Camp Supplies fur- 
nished promptly and lear-onably. House open May 1st to November 15th. 
Capaciiy. ]()0 guests. Ua(rs, $2.50 per day ; $15 to $20 pe;- week. Station, Ful- 
ton Chain on A. & St. L. Kailroad. For special terms address, 

See page 213. C. M. BARRETT & CO., Old Forge, N. Y. 

256 



]\ 



lEAVITT STAGE LINE. * ^^i^it^l^<^&r. 




Leaves Riverside on arrival of all trains from the south. Keturning: leaves 
Schroon Lake to connect with trains for Saratoga. Fare $1 . New four and 
six-horse Concord coaches afford a delightful ride through a picturesque 
region. 

Invalids or parties ivishing easy carriages or Special r/gr.s of any kind, 
can secure such onrtasonable terms bij addressing at Pottersville. 



ADIRONDiCK STAGE COMPAMY, Limited. 

Stage and Buckboard Line Between 
North Creek and Blue Mountain Lake. 



Through R. R. Tickets are sold to and from Blue Mountain Lake and all 
principal R. R. Offices, and baggage checked through, and the Stage Go's 
Agent boards all arriving trains in season to re-check baggage direct to 
hotels. 

Direct Express Service is Maintained to and from all Points in Con- 
nection WITH the Adirondack and National Express Companies. 

Coach fares are as follows : From North ^reek to North River, .50o.; to In- 
dian Lake (P.O.) $1.80 ; to Cedar River Hotel, $2 , to Blue Mountain Lake,S3. 
Applications for Buckboard Tarriages, time cards, etc., should b<^ made by 
mail or telegraph to theSupt. Adirondack Stage Co. Line, at North (-'reek. 

The six and four-horse coaches are supplemented by a large number of 
very elegant Canopy Top Buckboard Carriages, seating parties of 3 and 5 
which can be engaged at a reasonable additional charge. 

WALTER V. V. MARSH, Supt. 

257 



GRAND VIEW HOUSE. Es'-sex"co"'N''Y 

^ ENLARGED FOR 1893. *"> ^^^^^ ^^" '^^' ^' 

Ovt»rlooks Lake Placid and viirr'«r Lake. Largre Rooms. Sanitary ar- 
rangreinents perfect. Pure spriug- water. Telegraph in hotel. Stages 
meet all trains at Railroad Station. Terms, $3 per day ; $14 to $17.50 per 
week . 

HENRY ALLEN. Proprietor. 

TH^kUISSaUAONt-™ 

THIRD SEASON— UNDER SAME MANAGEMENT. 

For partic ulars please address X. EDMUND KRDMBHOLZ, 

Telegraph address. Lakp Plariri IM Y 

Ruisseaumont, Lake Placid. LHKe riaCIQ, W. T. 

Formerly "The West- 
side." Change in Man- 
agement 



WHITE FACE INN, 



THE ADIRONDACK CO., Owners. 

Capacity 150. RATES, $3 j^er day. $18 per week. 
Open Jiine 15 to November. 

CHIUD & KARINTOSH, Proprietors. 

Post Office Address, WHITEFAOE, N. Y. 

UNDER-CLIFF ti^ LAKE PLACID 

Enters upon its sixth year. Its growing popularity has called for annual 
enlargement to its present capacity for 75 guests. 

The proprietor has secured the co-operation of A. Nkwman as manager, 
and those who seek the woods and mountains for a summer sojourn may 
be assured of the pleasure, comfort and excellence suited to a refined taste. 

Although sometimes eri-oneousiy reported to the contrary Under-Oiiff 
is not a Sanitarium. 

TERMS, $12 to $20 per week. 
Proprietor, Dr. CHAS. D. ALTON, Hartford, Conn. 

After July ist, address Lake Placid, N. Y. 

258 



Telegraph and Post Office, RAY BROOK, N. Y. 

The best Trout tishinij in the Adirondacks. 
DUNCAN CAMERON, PROPRIETOR. 

Midway between Saranac Lake and Lake Placid. Fi.sh and 
Game a Specialty of the table. Trout Fishing in Ray Brook 
Preserve belonging to the house. Free Carriage to Ray 
Brook Station. Address for terms, 

DUNCAN CAMERON, Kay Brook, Essex Co., N. T. 

iii|ounrAiKViEWrioU5E,Sf'Sl 

and the Great Peaks from the North. 
RATES, $2 per day ; $S to $12 per week. Open all the year. 
Address for particular!*, 

GARDINER & GEORGE, cascadeville. n. y. 

Cascade Ca 1^0 Ho 115^, Cas^cadrllakes, 

The Wildest Mountain Pass in the Adirondacks accessible 
by Carriage. Guides, Boats, Hunting and Fishing Material 
Furnished. RATES, $3 per day ; $12 to $17.50 per week. 
Open June i to October i. Post and Telegraph Office in 
House. Seven miles east of Lake Placid Station. 

Address, E. M. WESTON, Cascadeville, N. Y. 

fuffiilfDcnnfy'ConnQK 

COTTAGE AND CAMP SITES AT 

LAKE PLACID, ADIRONDACKS. 
CLARENCE M. NOBLE, 100 Broadway, N. Y. 

In connection with all Hotels and Sanitarium. Carriages 
meet parties at Depots on arrival of all trains. Orders by 
Telegraph or Telephone promptly attended to. 

W. S. FOWLER, Proprietor. 

259 



nDiEononcK lodge. 

Clear Lake, North Elba. 

The Largest and Handsomest LOG Building in the United States. 

And the most comfortable house in the Adirondack Region. 

Tastefully built, in rustic style throughout, it is 

thoroughly comfortable and fitted with 

Every Modern Improvement. 

Located in the midst of various attractions of the 
Adirondack Mountains. 

(i^pQiU Radiate fpom the (©edge 



I 



DIRECTLY TO THE FOLLOWING POINTS : 

THE IflDIflfl PASS, 

AVALiHJSlCHE PASS, 
JWOUflT JVIAFJCY, 

IVIOUHT ]VIeIj4TlRE, 

]VIOUNT tJO ("The BeaP"), 
IVIOUJIT COLiDEfi, 

SOUTH JflEADOW BASipl. 

All of these trails have been carefully cut by experienced 
guides, expressly for the Lodge, and others will be added 
during the Summer. 

The Lodge is the headquarters for mountain climbing in 
the Adirondacks. For particulars address, 

HENRY VAN HOEVENBERGH, 

PROPRIETOR ADIRONDACK LODGE, 

North Elba, Essex Co., N. Y. 

Or, fl. V. Ageney, I^oom 23, -5-4 Bpoadtuay, fletu York. 
2 Co 



New Adirondack nouse. 

Situated on an elevation west of the village of Keene Valley 
in one of the most beautiful sections in the heart of the 
Adirondacks. Modern improvements. Bath rooms, and hot 
and cold water on every floor. Electric bells in every room. 
Open fire-places in public rooms and in 20 sleeping rooms. 
Walls finished with Adamant Wall Plaster— always dry and 
healthy. Rooms well lighted and ventilated. Mountain 
Spring water on every floor. Studio for the accommodation 
of artists, and a telegraph oflfice in the house. 

Our own dairy. Butter, cream and milk always fresh and 
delicious. The table suppled with vegetables from our own 
garden, fresh every day. Horses, carriages and spring buck- 
boards. Good riding horses, Tennis Courts, Ball Grounds, etc. 

Stages (morning and afternoon) for AuSable Lakes, through 
one of the most wonderful and picturesque sections of the 
Adirondacks. HUNTING and FISHING in season. CAMP- 
ING PARTIES, supplied with reliable guides, camping out- 
fits, etc. Five doctors own summer cottages near the house. 

Buy Tickets to Westport, where gviests will be meet with 
comfortable carriages on receipt of telegram or letter 24 hours 
before arrival. (State number of persons and quantity of 
baggage.) TERMS: Per week, $12 to $20. Day, $3 to $4. Single 
meal, 75 cents. Special rates for the season on application. 

SOLOMON KELLEY, Prop., Keene Valley, Essex Co., N. T. 

New TKHHlAiUS HOUSO. 

EEENE VALLEY, NEW YORK. 

The best of beds, the best of fare. Telegraph office at post 
office, close by. RATES, $2 per day ; $8 to $16 per week. 
Open June ist to October 15th. Dining room enlarged. New 
Cottage connected with the house. Five Cottages to Let. 
Accommodations for 75 guests. Agent for rent or sale of 
Brook Knoll. ^^^ ECCLEFIELD, PROPRIETOR 

FLUME COTT./\GE, 

MARTIN BAHLER, A.M. PROP., 
Keene Valley, Essex Co., N, Y. 

Rates, $8 and $10 per week ; $2 per day ; full price for 
children over 5 years No Infants. No Hebrews. Will re- 
ceive about 35 guests. Open July ist. Conveyance sent to 
Westport upon request. Send for circular written by guests. 
Address, until July, Summit, N.J. 

261 



<i^ADIRONDACKS.— =^ 

St. Hubet'ts Inn 

flflD COTTAGES. 

IN THE MOUNTAINS AT KEENE HEIGHTS, 
THE HEAD OF 

Beautiful Keene Valley, 

THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. 

BEEDE & HOUGHTON, - Proprietors, 

Beede's, Essex County, N. Y. 



New Hotel with all modern improvements. OPEN JULY 
ist to OCTOBER ist. Close by entrance to Adirondack Mt. 
Reserve. Mail, Telegraph, Livery and convenient Stage 
Service. Spacious rooms, open fire-places, steam heat, pure 
water and perfect drainage are all provided for. 



Wildwood Paths to Streams and Waterfalls. Trails 

to the tops of Marcy, Skylight, Gothics, 

Colvin, Dix, Noonmark and the Criant. 

Finest drive in the Adirondacks through the Re- 
serve to the Au Sable Lakes. 



FOR ILLUSTRATED CIRCULARS, &c., ADDRESS 

BEEDE & HOUQHUON, 

Beede's, Essex County, N. Y. 

262 



- AND 



U/ayside Ipp^otta^^s. 

LAKE LUZERNE, N. Y. 

Located at the confluence of the Sacondaga and Hudson 
River 700 FEET ABOVE TIDE WATER. Twenty miles from 
Saratoga on the Adirondack Railroad. Western Union Tele- 
graph in the house. The best of accommodations ; cusine un- 
excelled ; fine drives. $3.50 to $4.00 per day. Special rates 
for June and September. 

E. C. KING, Manager. 



NEW 7-SHOT 32 CAL. REVOLVER 

QUICK! »^^ «'a>» ?t> 

s 

A 

F 
E 

&FFECT- '-^^^i^J^. 
IVE! f^ 

COMPACT! 

DURABLE! 

Th(- mo^t Centeel -ihI 
Effective Ripm Hiuim; 
Kevoiv. rever sold Can be carried in the 
vest Tx.cket as easily as a wat'h. Abso- 

'utely Safe !■ Automatic Safety 

Lock ! I erteet shooting: qualities gruai- 

anteed. Every nia-i should have one of these we 

Elesrantly Finished, mil Nickel Plated, Rubber 

Packed Neatly in Box, Price $6 00. Address, 

«->« - CHICAGO FIRE ARMS CO., 

638 Monadnock Building, Chicago, Ills. 




apuns. 
Sides, 



263A 



"IRE nEniocK," • ^K- 

JOHN J. DALY, PROPRIETOR. 

Complete in appointments. Cuisine equal to the best- 
fresh milk, cream aud vegetables in abundance. 

Delightfully shaded by numerous Pines, Hemlocks and 
Birches. 

Telegraph and Post Office adjoins the hotel. 

Hunting and Fishing as good as any. 

Camp outfits supplied. Guides furnished on application. 

Rates for Board, $3 per day ; $17.50 to $25 per week, ac- 
cording to location of rooms. Children and nurses at reduced 
rates. Special rates for season, and for months of September 
and October. 

Address for particulars, 

JOHN J. DALV, 

See page 197. Raquettc Lake, N. Y. 

€CA]MP LIFEt> 

Twelve Photo-Gravures of Camp and Hunting Scenes in 
the Adirondacks, by S. R. STODDARD, size 10x12 inches. 
Price, $2.00, postpaid. 

Address S. E. STODDARD, Glens Falls, N. Y. 

Dr. Strongs Sanitariuivi, 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y. 

A popular resort for health, rest, change or recreation all 
the year. Elevator, electric bells, sun parlor and promenade 
on the roof, suits of rooms with baths. Croquet, Lawn tennis. 

Dry tonic air, Saratoga waters, all baths and remedial ap- 
pliances. 'Elegant new Turkish and Russian baths. Send 
for illustrated circular. 

263B 



\| 



Tf)e Ondava, 



Schroon Lake, 
- - N. Y. - ■ 

O'CONNOR BROS, Proprietors. 

CAPACITY loo. RATES, $2 per day ; Sio to $12 per week. 
"A noted sporting and pleasure resort." Open the year 
round. Address for particulars 

See page 173A. O'COXNOU BROS., SCHROON LAKE, N. T. 
NEW YORK DRY GOODS STORE. 

PEYSER & BRO., 

—DEALERS IN — 

DRY and FANCY GOODS, NOTIONS, 

Ladies' Furnishing Goods, Jewelry and Ready Made Clothing. 

SCHROON LAKE, N. Y. 



PYRAMID LAKE HOUSE, 



PARADOX, ESSEX CO. 

ORRIN HARRIS, 

Proprietor, 



Fishing preserve. Black bass and Speckled trout. Deer, partridge and 
small game. Accommodation for 100 guests. Boabd, $2 per day ; $10 to 
$12 per week. The half-way house inthe wilderness between Ticonderoga 
and Schroon Lake. Daily stage and mail. See page 173c. 

Ticonderoga ^ Schroon Lake 

stage: OOIVIRANY. 

Stages daily (Sunday excepted) through Paragon Notch 
past the TRINITY LAKES- 

Lieave Schroon Lake at 6.30 A. M. (passing Paradox, Pyra- 
mid and Paragon Lakes. 

Arrive at Ticonderoga at 11.30 (connecting with Steamers 
South on Lake George, and North on Lake Champlain.) 

Returning l«»ave Ticonderoga at 1.30 P. M. 

Arrive at Scliroon Lake at 6.30 P. M. 
For parties or special conveyance address, S. C. BAILEY, 
Manager, Ticonderoga, N. Y. 

263c 



leland house and (OTTACES, 

SCMROOISI LAKE, ISI. \^. 

THIS POPULAR HOUSE contains first-class accom- 
modations for 200 guests. Open June 12 to October I. Hotel 
grounds extend to the Lake on two sides 
and are ornamented with trees, shrub- 
bery, summer houses, etc. Delightful 
location. Fine Scenery, High Elevation 
and Pure Water. Finest Boatine, Bath- 
ing, Driving, Fishing and Hunting, in 
the Adirondacks. Carriage, Boat, Ex- 
press and Telegraph Office in the Hotel. 
Good Stables. 

The pleasure of rural and forest life 
are here combined with modern con- 
veniences and social privileges in a 
greater degree than in any other place 
in Northern New York. Terms by the 
week for June and September, $12.50 to 
$18.50, July and August, $15 to $25. 
Special arrangements for prolonged 
stay. Send for circulars and diagram. 

C. T. LELAND, Manager. 

t^DtWIC DniMT UnilQCT is flelightfiilly situated on an elevated 
UnUVC rUII^I nUUOC point washed on three sides by the 
waters of Picturesque Sehroon L«ke. one half mile south of Schroon Villagre, 
commandingr an extensive view of Lake and Nfountains. The Steamer 
Effingham touches at the Hotel Wharf 6 times daily. Guests of the House 
have the privilege of riding to and from the village free. The rooms are good 
size, well ventilated and furnished in antique oak. The beds have hair 
mattre.sses and woven wire springs. A broad piazza affording promenade 
of over 300 feet, Pine Groves. Fine sand beach with Bath-houses, Tennis 
Courts, Croquet Grounds, etc. Steam Launches by the day or hour. Row 
Boats by the week, month or season at reasonable rates. Rates, $2.50 per 
day, $10 to $U per week. Addi ess, W. A. Mackenzie, Prop. 

From May 10th to Oct. 1st. Schroon Lake, Es«ex Co., N. Y. 
From Oct. 1st to May 10th, St. Helena by-the-Sea, Beaufort Co., Frog- 
more P. O.. South Carolina. 




ADIRONDACKS. 



f avlor house 



AND 15 COTTAGES located on Schroon 
Lake, among the pines. Capacity 175 Guests. 
Electric Lights. Pure Spring W ater, all Sani- 
tary Arrangements complete. Amusements, Music for Parlor Hops, Bil- 
lard Parlor, Bowling Alley, Lawn Tennis and Croquet grounds. Rates, 
$3 50 to $3 per day ; $14 to $21 per week. For full particulars and illus- 
trated circular, address 

C. F. TAYLOR & SON, Prop's. 

p. 0. TAYLOE'S-on-SCHROON, Warren Co., N. T. 

264 



Wnicn ItocK Hotel 

HND OOTTKGES, 

ON aCHROON LAP)S. 



Opens June 15. Closes October 1. 

GEO. CECIL, Owner and Proprietor. 

Adirondack, Warren Co , N. Y. 

POTTERSVILLE HOTEL 

FOOT OF SCHROON LAKE. 

Hunting and Fishing Resort. Dining place for Scliroon Lake 

passengers. Rates 12 per day ; ^7 to $10 per week. 

Special for the season. 

JOHN B. WBLI^S, " Proprietor, 

P. 0. ADDRESS, POTTERSVILLE, N. Y. 

"The Little Red Guide*' gives time 

tables of all near lines in the most convenient form. It 
is issued semi-monthly by C. S. Pease, of Albany, and 
sent post-paid to subscribers at $2 per annum, includ- 
ing a neat morocco case. It can be had on the trains 
and at the news stands generally at ten cents per 

copy. 

265 



NORTH RIVER HOTEL 

is on the Hudson River, 5 miles from the terminus of the Adirondack Rail- 
road, at North Creek, on the 

Direct Road to Blue Mountain Lake, and is the regular 
dining place for passengers 

going and coming. TELEGRAPH connection with the Western Union. 
Stages and patent Canopy top Backboards carry guests to and from all 
trains. 

KITES : Meals Jocts ; $2.50 per day ; $10 to $15 per week. 

Buckboards run to this house on arrival of afternoon trains at North Creek 
1 and can be ha/1 for Blue Mountain Lake next morning. 

W. H. ROBLEE, rrop., P. 0. North River, Warren Co., N. Y. 

BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE HOUSE, 

JOHN G. HOLLAND, Proprietor. 
BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE. HAMILTON CO.. N. Y. 

Blue Mountain Lake, the Gem of the Adirondack 
Lakes, is located in the heart of the Great "Wil- 
derness, 1,800 feet above tide. 

The New Blue Mountain Lake House is a large, durable 
structure, located on a dry, sandy elevation 50 feet above the 
Lake, and with its outlying cottages, furnishes ample accom- 
modations for four hundred guests. 

Everything new, cleanly, comfortable and home-like. 

Pure Mountain Spring Water, Perfect Drainage, Absolute 
freedom from malaria. Positively proof against all forms of 
Hay Fever. 

The surrounding scenery is a poem of beauty, and the pure, 
dry, invigorating atmosphere is Nature's Life-giving tonic. 
Table first-class in every respect. Vegetables and milk fresh 
from the hotel farm. 

OPEN FROM APRIL TO NOVEMBER. 

R iTES : $i Per Day. Per Weeli. according to location of Rooms. 

Dailv Mails. Te'egraph office in the Hotel. Large Fire- 
places in Parlor and Office. Steamers leave Blue Mountain 
Lake House dock daily for all points. 



BRlCUfSlDE OK RAQllEffE, 



KAODETTE LAKE, 

HAMILTON CO., N. Y. 

J. O. A. BRYERE, Proprietor. 

This house which has been enlarged will be open in May. 
Terms, $12 to $18 per week : $2 to $2.50 per day. The house is 
built on the South Shore of Indian Point and commands a 
tine view of the surrounding Mountain Scenery. 

266 



BLUE MOUNTAIN HOUSE. 

TYLER M. MERWIN, PROPRIETOR. 

Is situated at the head of Blue Mountain Lake, on an ele- 
vation of 200 feet above its surface and 140 rods distant. 

The view of the surrounding lakes and mountains from 
this point is unequalled in this section. TERMS, $10 to $15 
per week ; $2 to $2.50 per day. 

Open all the year. Rates reduced for the winter. All com- 
munications should be addressed to 

TYLER M. MERWIN, Blue Mountain Lake, Hamilton Co.. N. Y. 
2:^g^Be careful and address Blue Mountain House, instead 
of Blue Mountain Lake House. Telegraph in house. 



tf 



RAQUEn-TEl LAKE. 

THE ANTLERS." 

Under the Management of C H. BENNETT. 

OPENS rVlAY 1. 

"The Antlers" is centrally located on one of the tinest 
points on the Lake, and commands beautiful Mountain Views 
of the Surrounding County. It is built on the colonization 
plan, having in connection several Cottages that can be rented 
entire or at the usual room rates. The table is the best that 
can be found in the woods. Boats and Guides in connection 
with the House. Wines served at table only. BOARD, $17.50 
to $25 per week. For further information address, 

C. H. BENNETT, 

Raquette Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. 

MAP oUhe ADIRONDAGKS, 

SHOWS LAKES, STREAMS, MOUNTAINS, 
ROADS AND TRAILS. 
Postpaid $1.00. 

Address S. R. STODDARD, Publisher, 

A * * Glens Falls, N. Y. 

267 



L-ONG L-HKE. 






Scigamore. 



See page 207.. 



Long Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. 




ACCOMMODATIONS FOR 250 
GUESTS. . . . . 

OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 
TELEGRAPH AND DAILY 
MAILS 



E. BUTLER, Proprietor. 

@, — %%'%%' — ^ 

''The New Sagamore/' 

LONG UKKE. 

268 



GROVE HOUSE, ^°^§.\^^^' 

Located in a pine grove at junction of Blue Mt. and Raquette Lake Roads, 
1 m. from South Pond, 2 1-2 ms. from Owl's Head Pond and Mountain. 
Good trail the coming season. Owl's Head Pond is best trout ttshing in the 
Adiroiidacks. Buttermilk Falls, two miles, good bass A.^hing. Plenty of 
pickerel are here. Good deer, partridge and duck shooting in season. 
Guides, boats and carriages to and froni trains at North Creek on applica- 
tion. Post Office (Grove) in the house. Mails twice daily. BOARD, per 
day, $2.60; per week, $10 to $14 ; Dinner, 75 cents ;Supper or Breakfast, .50 
cents. Open the entire year. 

DAVID G. HELMS, Proprietor. 



ADIRONDACK FORESTRY. 

A tract of nearly 4,000 acres of 
unbroken forest on 

LONG LAKE 

THE HEART OF THE ADIRON- 
DACKS, with miles of beautiful 
shores, sandy beaches, bold 
points, sheltered coves and the 
magnificent forest. Choice 
Camp and Villa Sites in 10 acre 
lots for sale, including Game 
and Forest privilege of the en- 
tire tract, at $500 a lot ; a few of 
the best held at $1,000. 

Any of these lots may be 
leased for three or Ave years at 
$25 or $50 and taxes per year, 
with privilege of purchasing at 
above pi-ice at any time during 

FORKED PINE CAMP to let for 

season. Roomy, rustic lodge, 

with big Are place. Kitchen 

and dining - room separate. 

Landing. Beach. Spring— everything complete. Apply to Trustees, 

HAZARD STEVENS, 85 Devonshire Street, Boston, Mass ; OSCAR B. 

RELaND, Springfield, Mass. ; GEORGE E. TERRY, Waterbury, Conn.; or 

M. R. SUTTON, Agent, L.ong Lake, Hamilton Co.. N. Y. 




F. A. KIRK & CO., Photographers, 

And Publishers of ADIRONDACK AND All SABLE CHASM VIEWS, KeesevlIIe, N. Y. 

Portraits in all the popular styles and sizes made with greatest care. All 
Field Work, Views and Interiors promptly executed. 

Will be in Keene Valley from July loth to August 1st. Beede's from 
August 1st to August 10th. Lake Placid, from August 10th to September 10th. 

All orders promptly filled and work done in any part of Adirondack re- 
gion. Correspondence solicited. CRAYON WORK A SPECIALTY. 



269 



1894— TPHK 1894 

BETWEEN 

PLATTSBURGH and SARANAC LAKE, 

TO THE 

Adirondack Mountains, 

IN CONNECTION WITH THE 

DELAWARE AND HUDSON RAILROAD. 



THE ONLY LINE TO 

Chazy, Chateaugay and Saranac Lakes 
and Lake Placid 

Whic h takes the traveler for nearly one hundred 
miles along the beautiful shores of Lake Champlain. 

Drawing Room Cars on all Trains 

Wagner Palace Sleeping Cars on all Night Trains, and 
Wagner Drawing Room Cars on all Day Trains between 

NEW YORK: and F»LATTSBURGH. 



Tickets, Sleeping and Drawing Room Car Accom- 
modations, ana Baggage Checked from 
all Stations. 

After June 25th, trains will be run through to Lake Placid 
without change. 

J. N. STOWER, M. L. FRENCH, Supt., 

Gen'l Manager. Ptattsburgh, N. Y 

270 




The 

Delaware 
If & Hudson 
Railroad. 

The Leading Tourist Line of America. 

The SHORTEST and MOST PICTURESQUE route 
BETWEEN 

New York and Montreal. 

THE ONLY DIRECT ROUTE TO 

Sarotoga, Lake George, Lake Champlain, 

Hotel Champlahi, Adirondack 3Ioun- 

tainSf All Sable Chasing Round Lake, 

Howe's Cave, Sharon Springs, 

Coojjerstoivn, 

and the unique Gravity H, H, 

LOW PRICE EXCURSION TICKETS 

TO ALL THE FAMOUS LAKE AND MOUNTAIN RESORTS 

are on sale at the Company's offices in Albany, Troy 

and Saratoga during the season of pleasure travel. 

H. G. YOUNG, J. W. BURDICK, 

2d Vice-Prest., Albany, N. Y. General Passenger Agent. 

271 



:xxxxxxxxxxxx 
xxxxxxxxxxxx 



J 



A Beautiful Book 
for 4 Cents. 

A COPY OF THE 

ILLUSTRATED 
CATALOGUE 



of the "Four-Track Series" New-York Central 
Books and Etchings will be sent to any address 
free, postpaid, on receipt of two 2-cent stamps by 
George H. Daniels, General Passenger Agent, 
Grand Central Station, New-York. Send also for 

*• Health and Pleasure on America's Greatest Railroad." 
538 pages, 300 illustrations. Pronounced by com- 
petent judges the finest book of its character ever 
issued -fl-ve 2-cent stamps. 

"Fishing Among the Thousand Islands." 

56 pages, beautifully illustrated with new half-tone 
engravings and diagrams locating all the choice 
fishing grounds of the St. Lrwrence; also all about 
tackle and fishing — five 2-cent stamps. 
NOW READY. 



2 72 A 



PASSENGER RATES FROM NEW YORK 

VIA 

New York Central 
Hudson River Railroad 

AND CONNECTING LINES. 

NOTE — Througti tickets to the following points are on sale 
at all New York Offices of the New York Cent/al and Hudson 
River Railroad Excursion tickets are issued at prices given 
in the column cf figures under " And Return " 

For further information apply to George H. Daniels, 
General Passenger Agent, Grand Central Station, New York. 

And 
TO Return. 

Albany m 10 KVOS 

Ausable Chasm 7 85 \A.'Zh 

Blue Mountain LakcS 95 1 r 00 

tBaldwin 6 70 12 65 

*Caldwell .5 .55 10 30 

DeKalb Junction.. 8(51 
Eiizabethtown. ... 7.H0 14.5D 

Forked Lake 10.7iKi0.50 

Fort Ticonderoga. . .5 95 
Glens Falls .. 4.80 8.89 

Gouverneur 8 21 

Lake Placid 9.80 17 T.5 

*Lake George 5.55 10.30 

Through and return 
via Ticonderoga. 12. (i5 

Loon Lake 8.80 16.00 

Lake Luzerne (Had- 

ley) 4.86 8 81 

Malone 9.02 

*During the season a Special Excursion Ticket is issued for 
¥8 50. good on Saturday to Caldwell, and reiuiu uu ox uviu^u 
the following Monday. 

tDuring the season a .Special Excursion Ticket is issued for 
J=iO, good for four days from date of purchase. 





And 


TO 


Return. 


Montreal 


.10 00 17..50 


Via Like Ceorge 


.11 .50 19 0(1 


N .rtli Creek 


. 5.94 1 1 00 


Norihville 


. 4 78 


Paul Smiths 


. 9.55 17 25 


Pittsburgh 


.8 " 1 ! 75 


Port Kent 


. 7 60 11.00 


Potsdam 


. 9.21 


Raquette Lake . . 


.10 20 10 .50 


Riverside 


. 5 70 10.50 


Rome . . 


5 30 


Rouse's Point 


8.70 15 35 


Saratoga 


. 4.20 7.. 50 


Saranac Inn 


. 9.05 1675 


Saranac Lake . . 




(lower) 


8.80 16 00 


Schroon Lake. 


. 7.-1 > 14 IM 


Troy 


. • .1 ) 6.10 


Westport 


C.81 12.45 



272-B 



Ube 1ft. 13' iPbotogvavure Company draw attention to their process 
of printing in colors. It is a perfected modification of the three-color print- 
ing process, and is called (Ibrome=(5elatine. It is so named from the 
Gelatine process of printing being used to produce the resulting pictures, 
which are allowed to be really wonderful. The advantages of the Gela- 
tine process for the purpose are obvious, as true photographic gradation 
is obtained in contradistinction to the Half-Tone process, where solid dots 
or lines only, are produced. The work is done on both hand and power 
presses, and is especially suitable for the reproduction of H^orks of '■Art, 
Scientific and Natural History objects, where color is of importance. 
Travelers' Samples of Colored Goods, such as l^^iigs, Carpets, Furniture, 
etc , etc. In every case the absolute accuracy of the photograph is main- 
tained. 

Proofs can be supplied within four days after the order is given, while 
the price is much lower than by any other known method of printing in 
colors. 

Samples sent on receipt of twenty-five cents. 

UbC Itt. 13. BibOtogravurc Company also draw attention to their 
photogravures printed in tints. By this method very charming effects 
are produced at a moderate increase in cost. 

Ube 1ft. ]3. ipbOtogravurc Companvj has the most complete staff 
and plant for the reproduction of all classes of photomechanical work. 

Samples and estimates will at all times be cheerfully submitted. 

Publishers of the High Class, Unique, Artistic Monthly, "Sun and 
Shade." 

Send for Circular. 

■ See Press Notices from all over the world. 

Negatives and Photographs made. 

Souvenirs, /Ibcnua, 36ooft ^^^^^ %7o2^^$'' '"'^ °"''''^'' °^ '" 

1FUu6trationB,TlClorftS of Brt, ^he company has on hand thousands 

Enlargements, Ipb0t0= of subjects of all classes, available for 

graphic portraits an& XanJ»= the purposes of illustration, and at the 

a--<if>-<i /r <,<■<, r,, .. ^ 7irn^..i, service of its customers. The newest 

scapes. Catalogue Wlorl?, ^^^ ^est subjects are being continually 

Subscription SooftS, added to the collection. 

Etc., Etc. Sets of illustrations selected with the 

greatest care and skill for any desired 
purpose. 

1R- !?♦ Ipbotogravure Co., 

137 Mest 23t) St, IRew l^orJ? Ctt^, 

272c 



Among the Green Hills of Vermont, and Along 
the Shores of Lake Champlain. 

AN ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF 148 PAGES, 

Prc])are<I fvoiti a Canrass of the State hij a Sjiecial Agent of the 

Central Vermont Kailro.ad. 

Containing: the names, post oflice address, and prices per week, from Four 
to Ten Dollars, for the entertainment of summer boarders in n selected 
number of the best family homes in the above most favored locality of the 
noi-th, for those seeking reci-eation, health and out-door amusenients. Al.-o 
list of the best hotels, and number they can accommodate, with their rates; 
with 75 pages descriptive of the scenic attractions and natural beauties of 
the State, and a short sketch of each town along the line of the road. Also 
a list of Special Summer Excursion Rates to Vermont Points and Return. 
Copy sent free on application to 

T. H. HANLEY, N. E. P. A., 260 Washington St., Boston. 

Or to S. W. CUM MINGS, G. P. A., C. V. R. R., St. Albans, Vt. 

Are you fond o 
stories, pictures 
and items about birds, dogs, fishes,trees 
and flowers, rods and guns, landscapes, 
woodcraft, camp life, rural retreats and 
general natural history subjects. If so, 
subscribe for Gameland, the gentle 
svortsman's magazine of shooting and 
rtshing. It reaches 60,000 refined men 
and women, and is read by the house- 
hold. Yearly, one dollar ; postage free; 
_ no free copies. Address: 

CHAS. BARKER BRADFORD, Publislier, 1267 Broadway, N. Y. 




GAMELAND. 



" DREW " or " DEAN RICHMOND," 

—OF THE— 

PEOPLE'S EVENING LINE. 

You will enjoy all the comforts of good living. Table sup- 
plied with the best the markets afford. The excellence of the 
cuisine is a feature of this line. This is the tourist's and 
pleasure seeker's route as well as the business man's. A 
steamer leaves Albany for New York (every week day) 8 P. M. 
Leaves New York for Albany (every week day) from Pier 41, 
N. R., foot of Canal Street, 6 P. M. FARE, $1.50. ROUND 
TRIP, $2.50. 

IVI. B. WATERS, G. F». A.. 



273 



Ml Ml 




Through Blue flountain, 

Eagle and Utowana Lakes, 

the riarion River and Ra= 

quette Lake. The most 

picturesque route and best 
equipped line in the Adi= 



rondacks. 



J- G. Thompson, sapT. 

274 



Lake Champlain Steamers 

SUJVIIVIKR ARRANGENdENT. 
SEASON OR1S©^. 

"VERMONT," Capt. R. Arbuckle, 

will leave Plattsburgh at 7:00 A. M.; Bluff Point (Catholic Sum- 
mer School), 7:15 A. M.; Port Kent, 7:35 A. M.; Burlington, 8:40 
A. M.; Westport, 10:10 A. M.; arriving at Fort Ticonderoga, 
12:15 P. M., connecting with trains for the South and Lake 
George ; returning leave Fort Ticonderoga on arrival of 
trains from the South and Lake George, 1:30 P. M.; Westport, 
3:30 P. M .; for Burlington, Port Kent. Bluff Point and Platts- 
burgh. BREAKFAST, DINNER AND SUPPER SERVED 
ON BOARD. 

"CHATEAUGAY," Capt. Baldwin, 

will leave Westport at 7:00 A. M., touching at Essex, Burling- 
ton, Port Kent, Bluff Point (Catholic Summer School), Platts- 
burgh, Gordon's and Adams,' reaching North Hero 12:20 P. M. 
returning, leave North Hero 12:20 P. M., touching as above, 
arrive at Westport 6:45 P. M. 

MEAL.S SERVED ON BOARD. 

Lake George Steamers. 



"HORICON,'* Capt. E. S. Harris, 

will leave Caldwell on arrival of train from Saratoga and the 
South 9:40 A. M., for way landings and Baldwin, connecting 
with trains for Lake Champlain ; returning leave Baldwin 
1:00 P. M. for Caldwell and the South. 

" TICONDEROGA,' Capt. F.G.White, 

leave Baldwin 7:30 A. M., for way landings and Caldwell, con- 
necting with train from Saratoga, Albany and New York ; 
leaves Caldwell on arrival of train 4:30 p. M., for Baldwin. 

MEALS SERVED ON BOARD. 

GEORGE EUSHLOW, General Manager. 
General Office : BURLINGTON, Vt. 

275 



COINC SOUTH? 

Consider your comfort and travel by the luxurious 
steamers of the 

CLYDE LINE. 

THE ONLY LINE OF STEAMSHIPS BETWEEN NEW YORK AND 

JACKSONVILLE, FLA, WITHOUT CHANGE. 

Affording a delightful sail among the 

SEA ISLANDS ALONG THE SOUTHERN COAST, 

CALLING AT CHARLESTON, S. C. 




v«:« 



Sailing from Pier 29, East River, New York, 

fflONDAlS, WEDNESDAYS, and FRIDAYS at 3,P. M, 

Tables are supplied with the best the Northern and 
Southern Markets afford. 

THE CLYDE SHIPS 

are of modern construction, and provided with every ap- 
pliance for safety, conif(n't and speed. 

M. H. Clyde, A. T. M. Theo. G. Eger, T. M. 

A, J. Cole, Pass'r Agent. 

W. P. CLYDE & CO., General Agents. 
5 Bowling Green, N. Y. 12 S. Delaware Ave., Phila., Pa. 



276 



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277 




Sportsmen 

Never " 

Enlarge 

the 

Truth 



More enthusiastically than when telling of the antlers the old 
buck carried off, or of the big fish that got away. But about a 
thing in hand exaggeration is less easy ; it speaks for itself— 
for just what it is. 




(the weekly JOURNATi OF FISHING AND SHOOTING.) 

Stands that test. We cannot begin to tell you all its good 
points. It speaks for itself . You will like its breezy sketches 
of sport with rod and reel and dog and gun ; its stories of camp 
life, its accounts of tramp and cruise. A sk your dealer for the 
current number or send to us. Sample copies, 10 cents. Per 
Year, $4.00. 

We will send free (on mention of this advt.) our illustrated 
Catalogue of best books on Shooting, Fishing, Camping, 
Yachting, Canoeing, Boat Building, Dog Training, Natural 
History, Outdoor Life and Field Sports. Address 

FOREST AND STREAM PUB. CO., 318 Broadway, N. Y. 




riOTEL WaWBEEK 




AISJD OOTTAGES. 
UPPER SARANAC LAKE, 



Post Office Address 

mauubeek, ^. V. 



OPEN july, aucust and septeiviber. 



Most Attractive Hotel in the Adirondacks, 

STRICTLY FIRST-CLASS. 
TERflS, $4.00, and upward per day. 

SEND FOR CIRCULAR. 



Harlow H. Chandler, 



MANAGER. 

For description see page 87. 

279 




Take 





KODAK 
With 



You 



On Your Vacation Trip. 



EASTMAN KODAK CO., 

KODAKS, ROCHESTER, N. Y. 

$6.00 to $100.00. 

Send for Catalogue. 

280 





LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 114 309 8 




